recently i've been experiencing some ocassional stall at the light. couple times it did it in the morning when i start her up cold and take her out. and at the first traffic light "sometimes" she'll stall when i come to a complete stop. and couple other times it did it when the car's fully warmed up and i rev it up high and fast then do a sudden braking at a light. i've been watching the rev needle. it seems sometimes when it is about to stall the needle will shake and the car starts to shake too. my idle speed is about 600 in P and N. and 500 in D or R. any ideas what could cause this? it starts to stall more and more often now. and when the needle starts to shake and feel like it's gonna stall... it'll usually go down as low as 400.

btw, since it never done this to me before, so i never really paid much attention to the idle speed. but i believe from my brief memory, it's always at around 500rpm.

oh... something i forgot to mention. i changed my plugs to NGK 7es about 400 miles ago. that's about the last thing i did to her. so i checked the plugs last night, they all looked fine besides for some dark color around the ring area. what could be wrong!?

Check you TPS, BISS, ISC, throttle cable tension, and any intake leaks. www.plymouthlaser.com and www.vfaq.com has all the information you need to check and adjust these things.
Good Luck.... Mike

98TalonTSi said:

Check you TPS, BISS, ISC, throttle cable tension, and any intake leaks. www.plymouthlaser.com and www.vfaq.com has all the information you need to check and adjust these things.
Good Luck.... Mike

Click to expand...

ok... i had some time today to play around with the BISS screw. according to my search. the idle should be around 750 while mine was boarder lining at 500. so i opened it up to 900-1000 in park and neutral and 650-700 in Drive and Reverse. and drove her around today, so far i haven't seen the needle jump yet at the lights. i'll keep a close watch on her the next few days see if that fixes the problem. apparently according to Vfaq, modifications of airflow increase will eventually cause an idle surge.... blah blah blah.

btw... i didn't use the scan tool when i played with the BISS.. is that ok?... i asked some people and they all say it's fine.

thank mike

ok..... news.

turned out that it's the ISC. after setting the BISS... althogh it doesn't stall but still idle weird (idle surge) and CEL started coming up. so i tested the ISC with a multimeter. turned out that the resistance were 42 to 47 while it should've been 33. ya... they're busted for sure. currently looking for used ones on classfields. since ####ing dealer wants to charge my ass $200 for it.

thanks for the help mike.

No problem, glad I can help.
Go to www.crebotech.com remanufactured ones for 80.
For now, tighten the throttle cable up a little moreso that the rpms will stay slightly higher. You may get a little crappier vaccuum, but it's worth not stalling, and having take off problems.
Mike

ok.... i got the replacement ISC from ebay today. it's a 1g ISC (my car is 2G). i put it on just now. not only it didn't fix the problem, it seemed to make the problem even worse!!.. i installed it and turned on the car, it started up cold of course, and normally the rpm will go up higher when you start it up cold. but it just stayed at @750 for about a min and when it started to warm up, the car started to surge really bad. the rpm will shoot up to 2500 and then down to 1500 and 2500 and down to 1500 continuously. i checked and rechecked the cables and everything was hooked up fine. so i thought maybe it's the BISS screw. then i played around with it, it still does the same thing, i pulled out the screw and checked the rubber o-ring, it was fine. so i took off the replacement ISC and rotated it and put it back again (i thought maybe it has to be installed in a certain angle), still it did the same thing. i checked the resistance on the replacement ISC it's perfectly at 29. i was sooooo sure that it's the ISC because my old one has a resistance of 40. i am soooo lost!!!... what is wrong!!.

right now i have the old ISC back on and it seems to go back to the original status (read the first thread). could it be because the replacement is a 1G ISC and my car is 2G??

i am about to give up!!.. i don't know what's wrong. i think i might just send it in to the shop tomorrow and let them figure it out.

Last thing I can think of is the FIAV. If that's damaged, then follow www.vfaq.com and block it off and run with no coolant lines to the T-body. Try running the car without an ISC. Some DSMLink guys have done this successfully.
Mike

well... i reordered the ISC because the one that came in yesterday wasn't exactly the model i ordered. the guy sent me this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...ry=33557&item=7925408695&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW while it should've been this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...&rd=1&item=7923042588&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT well see what happens, if it still does the same thing, i am just gonna send it in and pay for the labor... i am sick of dealing with this anymore.

That's shadyee....Still check the FIAV. Hope a rebuilt ISC helps your problem.

ok news!!... i got the right ISC this time. turned out the right one did help the problem. it's idling better now. however, the problem is still there. ocasionally my rpm still drops below 750 and stutters and comes back up. on top of that i "still" get a CEL.

i read and re-read the vfaq article on idle surge wrote by terry. i noticed he mentioned that ISC couldn't have reported a CEL. so this means even tho my ISC was after all going bad and it was good after all to replace it. but the real problem is still somewhere else. do you know what could cause the CEL if not ISC?

btw, i went to autozone before and pulled the code. turned out to be "Idle Control System Malfunction" (or something, i don't remember the exact words).

Too bad you're not closer, otherwise I'd let you use my codes scanner. Pull positive side of the battery for about 5 minutes then plug it in that will reset the CEL. If it doesn't come back on, then you're good to go.

ok.. i asked some dude, someone knows his shit. he said that a dirty TB or vacume leak could cause the CEL. since i can't clean the TB myself as for the vacume leak, how do i check? which line(s) do i check? is it easy to check? if not i ama just wait till next month when i get the car into a shop for a torque converter and shiftkit install and have them do this while they're at it.

i do'nt know if this helps but, i've noticed that the idle seem to drop more likely when i start it up first time in the day "COLD" and shifting and turning my steering and working my way out of the parking garage. that being said, i can still see slight surge at the lights and sometimes it does ocassionally drops below 750. and on top of that, i also notice when i take it out first in the morning when start up cold, usually during the first deceleration i notice a kick, kinda like misfiring and then was fine after that.

I have the same problem. Mine seems to stall when the alternater is drawing alot of torque. I'm going to try 1/4 turns of the BISS.

Any recommendations?