hey, i am lookin for the best/cheapest(although i know it wont be that cheap).....to build a low 12 maybe hgih 11 second motor in a 1g fwd...MAYBE AWD(dont want to risk breakign anything)

Ok i was thinking for the motor......i can get a full motor for a few hundred dollars....i was going to rip it apart....check everything....get all new bearings and seals...maybe newer 1g rods with 2g piston heads and leave the block pretty much stock
As for top end......i was thinking along the lines of this...
--Fully Ported/Polished head...maybe 3 angle valve job?(what do u suggest?)
--HKS 272/272 Cams
--BIG 16g Turbo ported not clipped, Ported o2 housing
--Ported 2g exhaust mani
--Ported Intake mani, maybe if i can find the cyclone mani for cheap
--255 walbro fuel pump
--550cc injectors(still debating on a good size, any comments?)
--Adjustable fuel pressure reg.
--SAFC
--FMIC with custom short route piping
--Different BOV
--3inch full exhaust
-- 3"GM MAF with the controller(not too sure onthis one, suggestions?)

Trans---FULLY BUILT AUTO RACE TRANS, im lookin into a few places

Any suggestions would be great, whether i need more parts, or better parts.....or if some1 has a better combo, please post, THANX

you're going through all of the trouble to make a really fast car... id go with a bigger turbo of some sort.

dont do what every newb wants to do in this world.. "get a big huge turbo". That will only do you some good with all supporting mods already applied. I have a friend thats kickin himself in the face for using 550s because hes at like 107% or something like that.. and thats the limit. Hes rollin 405 whp in his 95 gsx. Id prolly get 650s or 660s.. whichever it is because if you run 22 + lbs, your gonna wish you had bigger injectors. Also, read a lot about what the exhaust can do to your turbo. Make sure you dont get back pressure, or boost creep. You can fix that by getting an external waste gate. Save a good 5-10 hp by venting your BOV into your intake plumming. If your gonna go for low 12s - high 11s.. save time and just build your motor right. Bore it some.. rods / pistons / barings / remove balance shaft. Lose the power stearing etc. once you hit 12s, your gonna need a roll cage to go back.. so might as well strip your interior now before you go to the track. Be sure to have an AFC, especially if your street tuning. I duno man.. there really isnt a CHEAP way to get to the 12s or everyone would do it. There is a complete step by step " how to get 400 + HP and run low 12s high 11s" somewhere. Look into that as well. I hope this helped some

http://www.dsmtuners.com/tuning-guide/1gturbo/ << that is the either 300 hp / 400 hp tracks you can follow. They are very broad, but be sure that you follow the main steps.
As these instructions will tell you, BE SURE TO UPDATE ALL MAINTANENCE belts, fluids etc. Modding means modification, making the good thing you have better. who wants to build this whole new engine and blow it up cuz the timing belt breaks =( good luck mang

I went 12.1 with 50 trim, fmic, 660cc, safc, magnus smim, full 3" exhaust on street tires. I have a stock 7 bolt with stock cams, stock headgasket and stock head studs. My motor has never been appart. Thats on 21-22psi of boost on pump gas. I fixed a small leak I had and re-tuned my car last weekend so I'm hoping to run faster than my 12.1 on my next trip with another psi of boost or two.

Your list is way over kill for what your trying to do honestly, low 12's high 11's is fairly easy with a few mild upgrades like I did.

[edit] I see your auto, so you will need a bit extra to over come that however HKS cams would be enough over my setup to overcome that I would think.

First off, don't get auto if you haven't bought a car yet, and don't get FWD. Don't get head work, don't waste money building the block, and get a real turbo.

DSMJim said:

I went 12.1 with 50 trim, fmic, 660cc, safc, magnus smim, full 3" exhaust on street tires. I have a stock 7 bolt with stock cams, stock headgasket and stock head studs. My motor has never been appart. Thats on 21-22psi of boost on pump gas. I fixed a small leak I had and re-tuned my car last weekend so I'm hoping to run faster than my 12.1 on my next trip with another psi of boost or two.

Your list is way over kill for what your trying to do honestly, low 12's high 11's is fairly easy with a few mild upgrades like I did.

[edit] I see your auto, so you will need a bit extra to over come that however HKS cams would be enough over my setup to overcome that I would think.

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hey I actually have a few minor boost leaks as well, but I'm having a hard time making a tester that won't blow off of literally blow up. My turbo has a 3" inlet ... what did you use to cap the turbo? Pvc caps were either too big or too small for me because I think they meassure off of ID.

? weird, i've never had the leak test blow off on me.. maybe tighten the clamp down a little more or buy a wormscrew clamp and put it around where the cap goes into the hosing..

and to the original poster -

if you're planning for a track beat, get an AWD.. FWD is much harder to get into 11's with the same amount of mods as an AWD. trust me.. spinning through 1st and 2nd is NOT FUN.

on that note, i'd agree with DSMJIM and say that a 50 trim + supporting mods will get you into low 12's/high11's

1fast97gsx said:

hey I actually have a few minor boost leaks as well, but I'm having a hard time making a tester that won't blow off of literally blow up. My turbo has a 3" inlet ... what did you use to cap the turbo? Pvc caps were either too big or too small for me because I think they meassure off of ID.

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To be honest my leak tester I made hooks upto my lower intercooler pipe. I take my 90 deg slilcone off my turbo outlet (it's a standard discharge housing no 90 deg bends etc...) and hook my 2.25" boost leak checker up there. It's much easier to bolt down to my lower pipe because I can slide it on so far with 3" of silicone and clamp it down. Mine held upto 30psi on my car. We have one at the shop thats 3" for the turbo inlet but I havn't used it yet. It has a big ass rubber piece from a toilet or something on it that clamps down pretty good with a 3" T-Bolt clamp to hold the mofo in place. then it's a platic drainage cap with a compressor fitting on the end.

I clamp a cambells soup can to my turbo inlet and then blow the air into the BOV vacuum line.

OK....so im thinkin now.....maybe .50 trim Garret with im guessing the t3/t4 manifold?
660 injectors with SAFC
Front mount
Bigger walbro fuel pump
Full 3 inch exhaust

what else as for boltons??

I will still freshen up the motor though....and do the 95 pistons on the 1g rods...i am going to do some porting since i get it doen for nuttin

but what else should i do to get more power?

ALSO*** i am getting a fully built auto trans

how bout changing the ECU or chip?? suggestions?
MAF???

Read the tuning guide...nuff said. It sounds like youre pretty new to this stuff. Definately search for "50trim" and read up on how a 50 trim sounds to you. With a 50trim you will definately have lots lag on a stock engine.

There was a website on how a guy ran 12s for liek 5000 including price of car all i can rember is that it was a 1g gsx 5 spped, and he stripped everything ..i mean everything. bigger fuel cell. i think he also had boost controller boost gauge and fuel pump i think.

you do sound pretty new to this, try searching for threads on previous posts as i know they are a bunch on how do i get this time or how do i get this much power. the tuning guide should help you too.

ericismyname said:

There was a website on how a guy ran 12s for liek 5000 including price of car all i can rember is that it was a 1g gsx 5 spped, and he stripped everything ..i mean everything. bigger fuel cell. i think he also had boost controller boost gauge and fuel pump i think.

you do sound pretty new to this, try searching for threads on previous posts as i know they are a bunch on how do i get this time or how do i get this much power. the tuning guide should help you too.

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Um, I ran 12's for like 1600 including the price of the car(800) and it was nearly full weight.