Need Engine & Turbo recomendations for Street Mod

[ileagleracing]

After running my 98 TSi AWD in D Stock for a decade or so, I started prepping it for ESP. Unfortunately my second blown T25 took out the motor. So I figured I'd see what all the sane DSM autocrossers are doing and join Street Mod.

Since the motor has to come out I'm looking for suggestions as to how to build the "ideal" Street Mod 4G63T. By now you guys should have worked all the bugs out

Some basic parameters:
I'm going to try to get the car down to minimum weight, so 2.1 liter max.
I'd also prefer a big SMIC and a quick spooling turbo (the people I've talked to offlline have suggested the 68HTA).
E85 is not readily available where I live, so tuned for 93, or possibly 104.
Balance Shaft removal.

The car currently has 255 Walbro fuel pump, Injen intake pipe with K&N cone filter, DSMlink, Greddy CBV, some no-name Boost controller, 3" downpipe & a 3" no cat short exhaust (no muffler).

Samuel Krauss
08 Expedition (TSP)
04 S4 (STU)
98 Talon (SM?)
95 Talon (STX)

 

[Tyeler18]

My plan eventually will be to run a 2.3 with a BEP housed HY35 for Street mod. I'm currently running a fresh rebuild 2.0 with a small 16g to get the car dialed in suspension-wise where I want it, while saving up for another block to build my 2.3.

 

[ileagleracing]

My plan eventually will be to run a 2.3 with .

With a 2.3 motor my min weight is 2910 lbs, 2.0 liter is 2820, I'm not sure I could get there (although DG's car got down to 2750?) but sub 2900 is definitely the plan.
In DS Trim with 15 lb wheels and a 1/4 tank of gas, it tipped the scales at 3035 (with AC & sunroof). My STX car is 2900 (no AC, ABS or sunroof).

And Charles just informed me that a SMIC won't cut it, so I'm also looking for FMIC recomendations.

 

[Tyeler18]

With a 2.3 motor my min weight is 2910 lbs, 2.0 liter is 2820, I'm not sure I could get there (although DG's car got down to 2750?) but sub 2900 is definitely the plan.
In DS Trim with 15 lb wheels and a 1/4 tank of gas, it tipped the scales at 3035 (with AC & sunroof). My STX car is 2900 (no AC, ABS or sunroof).

And Charles just informed me that a SMIC won't cut it, so I'm also looking for FMIC recomendations.

Why the weight difference between the 2.3/2.0? With me in my full interior 1g it weighed in at 2980ish (no AC/ABS/Sunroof is all). Weight reduction on these are not hard at all, although you have a 2g.

I'm skipping the FMIC and going with a W/A intercooler from frozenboost.com. My plan is to have the quickest spool-up that I can without sacrificing any heat dissipation through the cooling system, so W/A was the route to go for me. Also the frozen boost intercooler is almost identical price to any half decent A/A.

My car is a full street car that I plan to have the ability to DD if needed, while still being very competitive in my class.

 

[FLASH1970]

If you're going to run higher octane fuel I'd say you might be able to get away with a bigger side mount like the Supra sidemount for example. But if it'll be on 93 pump gas, a front mount will cool charge temps better and lessen the chance of detonation. For kits, I'g go with a ETS kit, Punishment kit, or there's the VRSF kit. It depends on how much cutting of the bumper you want to do and how much you want to spend. For minimal cutting, the small ETS kit would be your best bet. I have one on my 2ga Eclipse and I was able to keep the "teeth" on the smiley face bumper and it didn't require cutting the radiator support on each side of the radiator. The Punishment Racing kit is the same way for the radiator supports but might require a little more to be trimmed from the bumper. If you don't mind taking a Sawzall to your car, the VRSF is a popular option. There's some threads on here comparing them and showing installs. I hope this helps.

What are your power goals?

 

[ileagleracing]

Why the weight difference between the 2.3/2.0? With me in my full interior 1g it weighed in at 2980ish (no AC/ABS/Sunroof is all). Weight reduction on these are not hard at all, although you have a 2g.

I'm skipping the FMIC and going with a W/A intercooler from frozenboost.com. My plan is to have the quickest spool-up that I can without sacrificing any heat dissipation through the cooling system, so W/A was the route to go for me. Also the frozen boost intercooler is almost identical price to any half decent A/A.

My car is a full street car that I plan to have the ability to DD if needed, while still being very competitive in my class.

According to the Street Mod rules Min weight is 300 lb per liter (add 1.4 liters for the turbo) & add to 1800 for AWD. For SM weight does not include driver.

I was looking into a W/A intercooler, but I want to be able to take the car to a "real" track every once in a while.

This car is still street legal, but not a DD anymore.

If you're going to run higher octane fuel I'd say you might be able to get away with a bigger side mount like the Supra sidemount for example. But if it'll be on 93 pump gas, a front mount will cool charge temps better and lessen the chance of detonation. For kits, I'g go with a ETS kit, Punishment kit, or there's the VRSF kit. It depends on how much cutting of the bumper you want to do and how much you want to spend. For minimal cutting, the small ETS kit would be your best bet. I have one on my 2ga Eclipse and I was able to keep the "teeth" on the smiley face bumper and it didn't require cutting the radiator support on each side of the radiator. The Punishment Racing kit is the same way for the radiator supports but might require a little more to be trimmed from the bumper. If you don't mind taking a Sawzall to your car, the VRSF is a popular option. There's some threads on here comparing them and showing installs. I hope this helps.

What are your power goals?

Do the SM rules allow for much metal cutting to install a FMIC? Maybe I'm getting confused with the Street Prepared rules.

I'm looking to get around 400/400 whp/wtq. Nothing to crazy, and hopefully somewhat reliable, as I'm not much of a mechanic (and I don't want to give Pruven Performance ALL of my money).

 

[JDOliver]

Check the rules in SM for the water to air intercooler.

 

[silicosys4]

W/A intercooler isn't so great if you aren't allowed cooldown time between uses i.e. 1/4 mile at a time. Anything longer and you tend to heatsoak the coolant. I know of one twincharged honda that was autocrossing, it could turn a 20 gallon reservior of ice/water slush into water hot enough to make coffee, inside of 2 laps, with its W/A setup. Thats 80-100 lbs of coolant that was hot, useless, power robbing weight, inside of 5 minutes of real track time. I recommend the best/most efficient fmic you can find, which will put you out of the vrsf and pr realm, and into the ETS and Shearer realm, just to name a few known vendors with high quality, efficient cores.

 

[ACM]

W/A intercooler's legal in SP so it's fine for SM. SM rules allow a lot of hacking - think of PJ's 240, it looks like it had a night of wild sex with a band saw...

The advantage of W/A in a Solo environment is that it has a much greater heat capacity than A/A - we get a miniumum of 5 minutes between individual 60 second runs, so long as the water pump is left running it should cool down fine (with the help of the tyre sprayer

The disadvantage is the increased weight and weight location. Although, I don't know whether it's any worse than a good-sized A/A core dangling out as far forward as possible, at least a W/A keeps most of the weight within the wheelbase.

 

[Tyeler18]

According to the Street Mod rules Min weight is 300 lb per liter (add 1.4 liters for the turbo) & add to 1800 for AWD. For SM weight does not include driver.

I was looking into a W/A intercooler, but I want to be able to take the car to a "real" track every once in a while.

This car is still street legal, but not a DD anymore.



Do the SM rules allow for much metal cutting to install a FMIC? Maybe I'm getting confused with the Street Prepared rules.

I'm looking to get around 400/400 whp/wtq. Nothing to crazy, and hopefully somewhat reliable, as I'm not much of a mechanic (and I don't want to give Pruven Performance ALL of my money).

W/A is perfectly fine for any type of racing, just get an efficient one and you won't have any problems running it 1/4, road course, or autox.

W/A intercooler isn't so great if you aren't allowed cooldown time between uses i.e. 1/4 mile at a time. Anything longer and you tend to heatsoak the coolant. I know of one twincharged honda that was autocrossing, it could turn a 20 gallon reservior of ice/water slush into water hot enough to make coffee, inside of 2 laps, with its W/A setup. Thats 80-100 lbs of coolant that was hot, useless, power robbing weight, inside of 5 minutes of real track time. I recommend the best/most efficient fmic you can find, which will put you out of the vrsf and pr realm, and into the ETS and Shearer realm, just to name a few known vendors with high quality, efficient cores.

He must not have had a very efficient core, as our autox guys back home don't have any problem with a 1lb icebox and keeping ice in it for their first set of runs. Then they usually throw a new bag of ice in for their last heat.

W/A intercooler's legal in SP so it's fine for SM. SM rules allow a lot of hacking - think of PJ's 240, it looks like it had a night of wild sex with a band saw...

The advantage of W/A in a Solo environment is that it has a much greater heat capacity than A/A - we get a miniumum of 5 minutes between individual 60 second runs, so long as the water pump is left running it should cool down fine (with the help of the tyre sprayer

The disadvantage is the increased weight and weight location. Although, I don't know whether it's any worse than a good-sized A/A core dangling out as far forward as possible, at least a W/A keeps most of the weight within the wheelbase.

The frozen boost W/A weighs almost the same as a VRSF front mount.