Plans and projects for the 09-10 offseason? (Related to Road Racing/AutoX/Rally)
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Plans and projects for the 09-10 offseason? (Related to Road Racing/AutoX/Rally)
It's about that time again. Time to start thinking of plans for the offseason. What are your goals and plans for next season? What type of events are you planning on prepping for - road racing, TT, autoX, rallyX? What projects will you be working on in the cooler weather?
I'll post up my info soon, but I figured I'd get this thread started, as I have already seen a lot of good work being done by people.
I'm just gradually upgrading as things break or I get the extra money.
I finally got some decent spark plug wires and the correct couplers to plumb my FMIC correctly. It was cheaply rigged with a piece of the stock lower IC piping because I didn't have the right silicone bends. Those should get here tomorrow.
I'd like to upgrade the suspension and get some cams as soon as I get the cash. I could really use a cam upgrade right now. I'd also like to switch to speed density when I get the chance.
____________________________
Wes - '97 Talon Tsi AWD
2G AWD is based classed PTE* and my plan is to run PTD. Basic plans for the car:
-215ish awhp (lofty goal for a dsm, eh?), 3000 lb race weight with driver and safety gear
-Stock 7 bolt, T-25, SMIC, intake/TB, and ext manifold. Hard intake/IC piping, ported evoIII O2, RRE downpipe, no muffler/cat dumped out the side, DSMLink
-Evo Brembos, 2-piece rotors, Hawk Blues?, Ti Shims (TiSpeed Titanium Brake Heat Shields Improve Your Braking Performance), SS lines
-Gutted, caged, 5 points. HVAC, PS, PL, PW, etc removed. ABS retained.
-Poly suspension bushings, solid mounts elsewhere
-R6s on 17" rims in a close to stock size
-New rad, fans, hoses, vented CF hood, etc. External oil cooler.
-Coilovers, corner weighted
Keep in mind what forum this is in guys. I'm interested in race preparations! If you are preping for something, please list what.
Ok then. I'll get a little more detailed. I totally missed what forum this was in.
Since my car is my DD, there really isn't an offseason. I just add parts as I get them.
I'm part of the PSU car club, and we basically just go out as a group and run whatever races we can get into when we aren't broke from the college life.
I've done several SCCA autox races at the local airport. The power was there, but I just couldn't get it to the ground, even with AWD. Crappy all seasons along with 230,000 mile suspension bits left me feeling like I was all over the place. It was a good introduction to autox anyways.
We also make trips out to Beaver Springs for some drag racing. I've had more than my fair share of problems there. Nothing catastrophic, but just annoying tuning/performance problems.
Plans for next year, at minimum:
- 264/272 cams. May go straight 272s.
- Roll the fenders and squeeze some summer performance 245s under all 4 corners.
- Tokico Iluminas with some Tokico shocks.
- Some meth/water injection.
- Shift kit for the auto tranny.
- I might get it professionally tuned with the Evo 8 Ecu I'm running.
Hopefully, this will make me a little more competitive.
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Wes - '97 Talon Tsi AWD
I've been meaning to start this thread for weeks now... I haven't driven the Eclipse all year. Finances and other issues have gotten in the way. Not to mention some of the projects I started over last winter never got finished. I have a lot of new projects I plan on working on this winter, but with a new baby coming in late January, I'm not sure how much I'll actually get done.
Here's what I'm working on though:
Engine bay clean up, including...
- Rerouting the engine bay wiring harness
- New I/C piping fabrication
- New lower coolant hose routing
- New turbo oil/coolant line routing
- New afpr setup
- DSMlink map sensor setup (maf removal)
ECM:
- Moving to ECMlink speed density
Exhaust:
- New v-band custom exhaust work
- Rerouting the wastegate back into the exhaust
- DEI turbo blanket
Fuel:
- E85 conversion
- Fuel surge tank design and fabrication
Cooling:
- Radiator ducting
Suspension:
- 240sx S14 Roll Center kit testing (need to buy still)
- 240sx S14 Tie Rod end kit testing (need to buy still)
- Jay Racing rear toe control kit install
- Whiteline swaybars install
- Other solid bushings/end links
- Some front subframe/cross member modifications (mostly for space savings)
Misc:
- CF rear hatch/FAL rear glass install
- Removing more stuff I don't need, weight reduction, etc.
- Adding custom door panels and other custom pieces
I have most of the parts for the projects listed above. I just have to get around to working on the damn car. I'm kind of taking a step back lately from making the car track-only. I miss driving it on the street. So I'm planning most of my mods to keep it somewhat streetable (mostly in terms of looks, safety, and reliability) so that it's not just sitting in the garage so much. I'd like to be able to register it for the street next spring. We'll see.
I'll be posting blogs with some of the installs/projects - hopefully you guys will too.
____________________________
-Chris
FP3150-powered road racer!
Please use the "Site Problems" forum or the "Tech" forums instead of sending "help" questions directly to me or the Moderators/Wisemen.
I'm going to try to finish up my current build to make the car at least somewhat competitive in SM. It goes around corners quite nicely now, but it's still lacking that critical component of getting from one corner to the next.
But first, brakes. Slotted stock size rotors with EBC Green pads, and SS lines if I somehow find the motivation to bleed all 4 corners. I need to do this soon anyway, my front rotors are getting surface cracking and shake like crazy on hard decel.
Then exhaust, an FMIC, and tuning stuff: the Evo IX fuel pump and 560 cc injectors I already have, and probably Link, though I'm still partial to the idea of the Evo ECU.
2G AWD is based classed PTE* and my plan is to run PTD. Basic plans for the car:
-215ish awhp (lofty goal for a dsm, eh?), 3000 lb race weight with driver and safety gear
-Stock 7 bolt, T-25, SMIC, intake/TB, and ext manifold. Hard intake/IC piping, ported evoIII O2, RRE downpipe, no muffler/cat dumped out the side, DSMLink
-Evo Brembos, 2-piece rotors, Hawk Blues?, Ti Shims (TiSpeed Titanium Brake Heat Shields Improve Your Braking Performance), SS lines
-Gutted, caged, 5 points. HVAC, PS, PL, PW, etc removed. ABS retained.
-Poly suspension bushings, solid mounts elsewhere
-R6s on 17" rims in a close to stock size
-New rad, fans, hoses, vented CF hood, etc. External oil cooler.
-Coilovers, corner weighted
Get as much tire on there as possible, our cars need it. I beleive D classing allows up to 245s? I loved the R6s in 225s and was going to step up to 245s and literally have a set in my garage, but im parting out the gsx now so wont get to see what she could have done. What we lack in balance we have to make up in sheer mechanical grip. Any reason for doing evo brembos instead of wilwoods 13" race kit. Pads and Rotors will be much cheaper in the long run. As for pads, you look like you had a question, the Blues are rough on rotors and dust to the extreme, how about some PFC01s/06s or HT-10s or 12s?
Also your damn close to knocking yourself in a much higher class than PTD, so make sure your counting your points correctly. Good luck!!!
Get as much tire on there as possible, our cars need it. I beleive D classing allows up to 245s? I loved the R6s in 225s and was going to step up to 245s and literally have a set in my garage, but im parting out the gsx now so wont get to see what she could have done. What we lack in balance we have to make up in sheer mechanical grip.
You can go as wide with the tires as you want, it's just that you take points for how much you deviate from the base class tire size which is 235 for PTE. Points assessed like this: 10mm +1, 20mm +4, 30mm +7, 40mm +10, 50mm +13, 60mm +16, 70mm +19, 80mm +22, 90mm +25, 100mm +28, 110mm +31, 120mm +34, etc.
The reverse is true as well, so for example a 205 would be -4 points. So yeah, tire choice (different points for different tires) and size is going to be a big final decision.
Quote:
Any reason for doing evo brembos instead of wilwoods 13" race kit. Pads and Rotors will be much cheaper in the long run. As for pads, you look like you had a question, the Blues are rough on rotors and dust to the extreme, how about some PFC01s/06s or HT-10s or 12s?
For one I have the same Brembos on the front of my CTS-V, so I was kind of partial to them and can switch pads if needed between the two. Also, I think I got a pretty good deal on the whole set-up. Not to mention tispeed is a sponsor of mine and they make the shims for the Evo calipers. Maybe there was a better way to go here, but I already have the whole set-up (calipers, shims, SS lines, Galant knuckles, 2-piece rotors), so yeah. Only thing left is the pads. I was considering either the HT-10 or Blues. My only personal experience on the track is with HP+s, so I wasn't really sure. I can pick up a barely used set of Blues from another V owner for less than $100 right now, so I was kind of leaning that way... What do you guys think though?
Quote:
Also your damn close to knocking yourself in a much higher class than PTD, so make sure your counting your points correctly. Good luck!!!
Yeah, I know I'm really close. Hence why I was considering the smaller tire. By my calculations, this is where I'll be at:
* = 7 points
Forced Induction = 5 points
R6 tires = 10 points
205-245 = -4 points-+1 point
Weight reduction = 10 points
Intake/Exhaust = 3 points
Coilovers = 5 points
I was considering either the HT-10 or Blues. My only personal experience on the track is with HP+s, so I wasn't really sure. I can pick up a barely used set of Blues from another V owner for less than $100 right now, so I was kind of leaning that way... What do you guys think though?
I've run Hawk Blues front and Hawk HP+ rear. While the Blues worked great, they eat the rotors until they're heated up. And they wear quickly while producing a ton of paint destroying dust. If I were to do it again, I think I'd go with DTC-70 front and DTC-60 rear.
I dont think youve accounted for all your modifications, here is a list I came up with for your car. This is what I assumed it would be. I would personally let the weight climb by adding ballast to get to stock weight with driver(so no weight reduction points) and get more tire under there. The difference of 140 lbs compared to going from a 205/215 instead of full weight and 245 hoosiers is simply in my opinion worth it. However I do have limited experience on different widths of hoosiers on GSXs, I just ran 225s hoosiers, the rest were all street tires.
PTE
* = 7 Points
Forced Induction= +5
Hoosier = 10 points
Tires width = up to 235 +0 or -1 or -2
Weight Reduction = +10
Hard Intake Pipe = +1
Exhaust= +2
No Cat= +1
Coilovers (assuming they arent too expensive)= +5
Non OEM calipers = +2
DSMLINK (OEM ECU, but NonOEM chip and NON OEM hardware, cause of the dsmlink chip)= +10
PS- S-AFC is free points.......
Last edited by D_Eclipse9916; 11-04-2009 at 09:26 AM.
Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping"
omg where to start lol. The car was a beast when i put the FP3065 in but then came the overheating...yep i said it, the 2g curse All this is going for NASA HPDE, i might do TT
Overheating: The #1 reason i spent most of this season on the side line. If someone took a picture of me standing in front of my car with the hood up while coolant is pissing out from under the car...story of my life right there I will get this fixed this year. Im going to do brand new ducting, I picked up some FAL fans in a shroud. Thinking of ditching my Mishimoto for a Koyo maybe that will make a difference. Heatwrap EVERYTHING! hahaha Maybe add a spitter and relocate my coolant overflow to a prime location. Maybe even add a heat shield, and swap out my SSAC FMIC for a (smaller) lol core.
Weight Reduction: I picked up a beat up oem vis cf hood. I need to sand it down, add a hood vent and finish up that project. Do a little more gutting. Im not sure if this is going to be the winter i add my roll cage but if i do...it will be chromoly
Wheels/Tires: Im using my street tires for the track right now but i want to pick up some r comps (not sure what brand yet...any recommendation?) Im currently using 235/40/17 Evo 8 Enkeis but im thinking of picking up some RPF1s, maybe 17x9 with a 255 Id love to but im not sure if its going to be too wide for my setup (no rolled fenders just yet) anyone running 255s right now have any input? Should i stick 245?
Brakes: I bought some ss lines, i need to get some time to finish that up. Brembos, Brembos, Brembos, Brembos!!!!! lol Once i send mitsumissile a pm and get some spindles i will be installing some brand new Evo Brembos. I have Hawk HPS pads but everyone tells me one track day and i should start looking for new pads lol Make some air ducting to cool the brakes
Performance: I have a few odds and ends i picked up like a JFM SMIM and some HKS 272 cams but my main concern at this point is getting the overheating taken care of before i even think of doing anymore performance, but E-85 conversion is on the agenda down the line
I've been meaning to start this thread for weeks now...
I figured you had, but had been too busy to. I had been waiting for at least 2 weeks for you to start it, and finally told myself I'll just do it!
After looking through my overall to do list for the car, I picked out a bunch of stuff I'd like to get accomplished over the winter. Out of curiosity, I went back to my list I posted last year and got about half of the items accomplished - not too bad!
Here's what is on my list:
Engine bay:
- Install Saturn alternator with Jay Racing relocation kit
- Catch can setup using -10 vent(s) from the valve cover
- Coolant overflow bottle (1 liter minimum) - possibly retaining stock cap?
- Modify dipstick tube to prevent popping
- Powdercoat/install oil pan with temperature sender
- Install oil pressure sender
Interior:
- Remove A pillar triple mount/gauges and install stock pillar
- Install new gauge(s)
Suspension:
- DG setup
- Install SPC upper control arms (sitting in my living room)
Misc:
- Locate best position and install tow hooks
- Locate best position and install fire extinguisher
- Quick release front bumper
- Any weight loss I can find!!!
I also just got another racing "mod" about a month ago. I'll post up some pictures of it when I get a chance to take them
I'll be looking to run in HPDE events, autox, and hopefully get out to the drag strip a few times. But since I didn't get any HPDE events in this season, that is my first priority!!
Weight Reduction: I picked up a beat up oem vis cf hood. I need to sand it down, add a hood vent and finish up that project.
Copycat
Sounds like you have a lot of good stuff on your list. I'd love to do most of it (Evo Brembos, RPF1's with R comps, cage, etc.), but that's a lot of money. I need to space my mods out.
Sounds like you have a lot of good stuff on your list. I'd love to do most of it (Evo Brembos, RPF1's with R comps, cage, etc.), but that's a lot of money. I need to space my mods out.
Hahahaha wait til you see i use the same hood vent as you . Ive been saving for some time now so its long over due for me. With all the overheating i did im prob going to pull the head as well and change the head gasket and timing belt and make sure the head isnt warped which im sure it is at this point
I've run Hawk Blues front and Hawk HP+ rear. While the Blues worked great, they eat the rotors until they're heated up. And they wear quickly while producing a ton of paint destroying dust. If I were to do it again, I think I'd go with DTC-70 front and DTC-60 rear.
Thanks for the pad recommendation. Considering how happy I am with my CTS-V brakes on street tires and HP+s, I can't wait to see how the Talon with R comps and race pads does.
Quote:
Originally Posted by D_Eclipse9916
I agre with Scott on pad recommendations.
I dont think youve accounted for all your modifications, here is a list I came up with for your car. This is what I assumed it would be. I would personally let the weight climb by adding ballast to get to stock weight with driver(so no weight reduction points) and get more tire under there. The difference of 140 lbs compared to going from a 205/215 instead of full weight and 245 hoosiers is simply in my opinion worth it. However I do have limited experience on different widths of hoosiers on GSXs, I just ran 225s hoosiers, the rest were all street tires.
PTE
* = 7 Points
Forced Induction= +5
Hoosier = 10 points
Tires width = up to 235 +0 or -1 or -2
Weight Reduction = +10
Hard Intake Pipe = +1
Exhaust= +2
No Cat= +1
Coilovers (assuming they arent too expensive)= +5
Non OEM calipers = +2
DSMLINK (OEM ECU, but NonOEM chip and NON OEM hardware, cause of the dsmlink chip)= +10
PS- S-AFC is free points.......
With the exception of Link, I think we came up with about the same total. I was kind of hoping that it would fall under the free mod:
49) OEM ECU/PCM reprogramming or chip (must use OEM ECU/PCM box/housing/hardware)
That along with a clarification about Hondata on the PT forum led me to believe it might work. If not, I guess I'll just pick up a SAFC since that should work fine for my minimal mods. Just kind of sucks since I already have Link.
As for the weight vs tires issue, I think you might be right. I've always figured that I can just add weight to gain back points I want. Every 15 lbs is a point, so yeah. Not to mention since you're allowed up to 250 lbs of ballast, I can put the weight where I want it.
Granted driver skill is paramount, but how do you guys think this setup should fare in PTD? Either way, I think it will be cool to have one more DSM out there road racing.
The last HPDE of the season is this weekend. That will be another thing I'll need to adjust to. I'm guess the V and Talon may have a little different driving characteristics.
Chris, you going to be able to make it out this weekend?
Chris can you go in detail of some modds you plan on this winter?
Rerouting the engine wire harness
240sx s14 roll center kit
240sx tie rod end kit test
front sub frame/crossmember modds
thanks Rick
My goal basicly is to have the car running and tuned by March 1st. I try and look at the list of just 3 things and try and pretend like it is a weekend project
-New bushings everywhere
-weight reduced to the max as full race car gutted, I hope 2800 lbs minimum
-DSM link, "welcome to 2003" ditching s-afc, s-itc, lasted 8 years not bad and 11 sec time slip.
-"R" compound tires
-seat time seat time seat time seat time, with a Evo16G you get a lot of seat time and passing the FP3065 setup overheating and the guy who LOVES 1/4 miles racing and don't know shit about road racing.
____________________________
Paul M. stock TB-head-cams 11.98 @ 117mph (BR20G)
Here's my new "mod" for next season. I'll hopefully be using it to tow my car to different HPDE events next year. I just have to find a trailer to use (rent or convince my friend to borrow his).
Here's my new "mod" for next season. I'll hopefully be using it to tow my car to different HPDE events next year. I just have to find a trailer to use (rent or convince my friend to borrow his).
along with 230,000 mile suspension bits left me feeling like I was all over the place. It was a good introduction to autox anyways.
By my calculations, this is where I'll be at:
All this is going for NASA HPDE, i might do TT
I will get this fixed this year. Im going to do brand new ducting, I picked up some FAL fans in a shroud. Thinking of ditching my Mishimoto for a Koyo maybe that will make a difference. Heatwrap EVERYTHING! hahaha Maybe add a spitter and relocate my coolant overflow to a prime location. Maybe even add a heat shield, and swap out my SSAC FMIC for a (smaller) lol core.
Id love to but im not sure if its going to be too wide for my setup (no rolled fenders just yet) anyone running 255s right now have any input? Should i stick 245?
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