TCE Brakes shuddering really bad!

[aaronmatusz]

I went to Road America a few days ago with the Audi club for a two day driving school.
Overall it was loads fun and even more informative.

The only issue I had the whole time was tremendous vibration only under heavy braking, as soon as I got to the pits it goes away. This has been the case since I got this kit, but THIS time it was too much to keep under my lid... my glasses rattled off my face! So yeah, I'm still cleaning duct tape goo off of my cheeks.

Anybody else experience this?
Any fix for it?

 

[Scott McIntyre]

You should probably talk to Todd @ TCE, but it sounds to me like you have pad buildup on your rotors from not properly bedding them in. Here's the process I use: Wilwood High Performance Brake Pads

I'd try cleaning the pad & rotor face with a sanding block, clean any buildup from the gas slots, and bed them in again.

 

[aaronmatusz]

I never knew...thanks!
I'll go try that tomorrow.

 

[talonTSIDriver]

My TCE kit did the same thing. The problem was the lock-tight stuff I used on the bolts for the 2-piece rotors. My first event (which happen to be at RA as well) it did the same thing. It felt like some warped rotors. After that event, they were fine, it just took the first event for that stuff to burn off.

 

[underradar92]

I had both melting locktite and too much antisieze on the axle shafts. Both melt/soften at R.A. brake temps and migrate onto the outer rotor faces, between the hat and rotor, causing a wicked brake shudder. Clean, clean, clean. Don't use Locktite on the hat/disc screws, safety wire them. New bearing seals help too.

 

[aaronmatusz]

I heard about the loctite problem, but I never thought about antisieze as a cause. I do tend to over use the stuff so there will some cleaning in my future.

Also, perhaps you'll see how this relates:
Are the Howe ball joints supposed to come with boots? can a guy get some or do I just grease them regularly and wipe excess off?...yet another source of grease.
The aluminum wheel nuts I use are a waste of time & money. They require regular aplications of lube to the threads to work at all and they still put up a fight the whole way on or off the stud.
I need uncapped (for use with long studs) steel lugnuts that don't need some theft prevention socket adaptor to take 'em off. Any such thing available in the world?

Thanks for all the great info!

 

[underradar92]

I heard about the loctite problem, but I never thought about antisieze as a cause. I do tend to over use the stuff so there will some cleaning in my future.

Also, perhaps you'll see how this relates:
Are the Howe ball joints supposed to come with boots? can a guy get some or do I just grease them regularly and wipe excess off?...yet another source of grease.
The aluminum wheel nuts I use are a waste of time & money. They require regular aplications of lube to the threads to work at all and they still put up a fight the whole way on or off the stud.
I need uncapped (for use with long studs) steel lugnuts that don't need some theft prevention socket adaptor to take 'em off. Any such thing available in the world?

Thanks for all the great info!

Last to first, I too, have extended studs so, I milled cheapy Auto Zone lugnuts ends off, painted then cheap silver and they work fine. Also welded a thin sleeve around the adapter/socket so it doesn't stretch, had that happen at the track once.

There is a dust/grease boot available for the Howe balljoints plus, I used a trick seen on the GT1 Vettes, stapled a strip of header wrap loosely around the boot since, it is really close to a (potentially) red hot rotor.

The antiseize isn't a problem on 1 pc. rotors since the stuff just creeps out through the fins but on 2 pc. rotors, it will migrate between the 2 pieces, getting onto the outer face. It lingers in the slots too.