What It Takes To Road Race

[tsiboosted]

Ok, I have seen several posts on here on what it takes to road race your DSM. There have been some excellent posts on how to get into the road racing community. What I wanted to do in this post is just give an example using all of my costs and what it took to get the car as well as myself prepared to race in a full season (6 Rounds/months) competitive road racing series. This is strictly for informational purposes only using my costs to run the series I currently race in. Some costs may be higher, some may be lower. I am just trying to put something out there that may educate people on what it takes to get everything ready and to run the series itself.

First off, this is for running a road racing series. There are several other types of racing you r can do. Anything from AutoCross which runs around $20.00 an event. To HPDE "High Performance Drivers Education" which can run anywhere from $250 - $400. Each of which offer their unique aspect of racing and most importantly, gets you seat time in your car to learn the basics on how to control your car in certain situations under speed. The more experience the better.

Now for me and the series I am running in, I had to be granted a provisional "Rookie" competitive license in order to compete in a wheel to wheel road racing series. Since I had little experience in real wheel to wheel racing, I had to attend a certain amount of schools (HPDE) and have up to 3 competitive licensed drivers ride with me and evaluate how I was on the track and sign a form letter saying they would have no problem racing with me in a competitive wheel to wheel racing series. So, from the beginning of 2007 I attended 10 HPDE events including PCA (Porsche Club of America) as well as Bryan Racing Lapping Day events which had certified instructors at every event. By the time September of '07 rolled around, I had been to my 10 events and had 4 letters from licensed professionals saying I was good to go to race in my series.

Now for me, I am starting with a 1997 Eagle Talon TSi FWD. I am not going to factor in all the costs of the mods I did, just the cost of the safety equipment you MUST have to run in a road race series. First off you have to have at least a 4 point main hoop (other series may differ). I purchased mine for $431.95 plus $75.00 in shipping, total of $506.95. Secondly you have to have a switch to cut the power to your car in case of an accident. This is the On/Off switch I'm sure you have heard about and seen before. I picked one up for $54.99. Next you will need a fire suppression system. Some series only require you to have a hand held extinguisher in the car. But I went ahead and got a full fire suppression system. This cost me $210.00. You will also need a "Race" seat for your car. I bought the Corbeau FX1 seat which was $299.00. You will also need a 5 point racing harness. I got the G-Force Cam lock Harness for $130.00. That took care of all my safety equipment. Total cost of all equipment...right around $1,200.00. You will also be needing a fire suit, racing shoes, gloves and an approved helmet. I bought my suit used from someone for $150, my gloves, shoes and helmet cost around $400. So for all my drivers equipment cost around $550.

Now let’s get to the cost of the series itself. Now this is where the cost will differ mostly from series to series. I am factoring in hotel costs as I live 4 hours away from the venue my series is hosted by. You may live 10 minutes from the track. Again, this post is based on my series and what it costs me to run in it. The series I run has an entry fee of $160.00 per event. This includes all practice sessions on Saturday and the event itself on Sunday. 6 rounds of the series, that is $960 in entry fees for the season. Now I have to factor in hotel costs for me. We stay at the host hotel for the series for 2 nights and it is $220.90 for 2 nights, times 6 events that is $1,325.40 per season. Now I am going to go to car maintenance which is including anything I mess up during a race, oil changes, gas, new parts etc. As of right now I am at $1,446.88 so far for the series. Also, I have to factor in fuel for my hauler to get the car and myself to the track. Well in Florida and around the southeast here, gas is around $3.10 a gallon. It typically takes 2 1/2 tanks of gas to get me to and from the event, which ends up being around $120.00 a trip, times 6 events is $720.00. Throw in money for food, drinks and maybe a few beers here and there , and we have a grand total including entry fees, gas for hauler, maintenance for race car etc. is around $4,452.28.

So now for the bottom line. To run my series, the Grand Bayou Race Series for all 6 events from October - March will cost me around $6,300.00 Now as I said to preface this post, this is what it cost me to run the series I am currently running in. It could cost you less, it could cost you more. Next season it will not cost me as much as I will already have the car prepared with all the safety equipment done etc. But I will also be stepping up the horsepower with some new mods as well.

I hope you guys have a little better understanding on what it takes to run in a competitive road racing series now, well on my costs anyway. It takes a little more than people think I believe especially in the beginning with getting the car up to tech and all the proper safety equipment installed CORRECTLY. It’s not all about how fast your car is or what mods you have, you have to have a safe race car as well. The biggest thing is to just go out there and have fun with it. I have met some GREAT people in racing and continue to make more new friends every event I attend. I hope this post helps some of you out there look more into road racing and how much fun it is. It’s not all about the money and winning trophies and what not. For me, it’s about a stepping stone to something bigger in my life as well as making some great new friends in the process.

 

[Ludachris]

This is a good article for the wiki...

 

[tsiboosted]

This is a good article for the wiki...

Thanks Chris. You are more than welcome to move it where ever you would like it.

 

[talonTSIDriver]

To most, it sounds like a lot of money, but really its not that bad. Think of what some guys waste on aftermarket mods that end up not going much. I think road-racing is MUCH cheaper than drag racing. Think of the money those guys have into their cars.

 

[tsiboosted]

To most, it sounds like a lot of money, but really its not that bad. Think of what some guys waste on aftermarket mods that end up not going much. I think road-racing is MUCH cheaper than drag racing. Think of the money those guys have into their cars.

In the begining it does sound like a lot of money. But its not like I dropped all that up front. I gave time before and between each round to save money for each round after that. I know what you mean about drag racers dropping A LOT of money into their cars and engines. I see guys drag racing that have well over $10,000 into their engine. That is a lot of money to me. I am spending around $6,000 and getting race 12 times (including practise sessions) in a span of 6 months. Thats a pretty good deal to me. Plus, like I said before, it is a stepping stone for me and my racing.

 

[ninjai_ruken]

Great Write up, I had plan on running as many HPDE's as I could this year any ways. And even when im racing full on I plan to run at least a few a year. You never stop learning as there is always something new to learn.

 

[tsiboosted]

Great Write up, I had plan on running as many HPDE's as I could this year any ways. And even when im racing full on I plan to run at least a few a year. You never stop learning as there is always something new to learn.

Thank you. Yeah, I plan on running at least 4 or 5 HPDE's after the series is over. As you said, you can NEVER stop learning about racing. Always something different every time I drive my car.

 

[schemauer]

When you boil it down amateur racing can be affordable. Some guys will spend $20k on a fishing boat, or $6k on a four wheeler, $4k on one hunting trip. It's really just about how you want to spend your "discretionary" time and money.

 

[tsiboosted]

When you boil it down amateur racing can be affordable. Some guys will spend $20k on a fishing boat, or $6k on a four wheeler, $4k on one hunting trip. It's really just about how you want to spend your "discretionary" time and money.

Without a doubt you are correct there. I see them pulling their fishing boats all the time. I was just breaking down how much I spend on the series I run. But I know where you are coming from there.

 

[Elvenhome21]

The most expensive part of road racing is the entry fee, $400 for 2 days of RA or Autobahn hurts the pocket book. But schemauer said it perfect, this is our hobby to spend the money on and we save up for it. The motor for there bass boat cost as much as a well built 4g63. And a fishing rod and reel or rifle/shotgun and scope cost as much as a tires and wheels.

My green talon I only put in maybe a $1000 in new/replacement parts and $300 in tires and wheels. I had $2500 total invested between the car and the add ons. The biggest thing that plagued me was equipment failing after 110,000 miles.

 

[architechnik]

Excellent write-up. Road-race is more of my style than the drag strip. To many sudden failures on the straight strip and the those high dollar signs when you break.

As you noted, not everything has to be purchased at once, especially when starting out in the lower rungs like autocross that can be done with nearly stock setups. As the driver increases performance, they can drop a little more into outfitting the vehicle with safety equipment to match the increased risks that driver feels comfortable making.

 

[talonTSIDriver]

I think we all can agree that there is nothing better than chasing down viper or Z06 through the twisties. Its like playing need for speed when i was 14, i never thought I would be doing it in real life.

Great writeup! and for those new to the auto-x roadracing, dont let the cost get to you, its worth EVERY penny.

 

[Elvenhome21]

this would be my list in order if I started over.

4 or 5 point harness (my green car had the stock belts with no tension so it was uncomfortable, I jammed a pillow in between me and the door for RA to keep me from sliding in the seat)
camber bolts or plates
hood vents (if your running higher speed tracks put on a valance)
general exclaim uhp tires or Toyos if you have the cash
AWD brakes and race pads
agx or koni shocks/struts
16g turbo and upgrade clutch disc
sway bars
FMIC along with some sort of cooling upgrade

Things I would highly recommend replacing with new before you start getting serious, are a-arm bushing, pref poly bushing. Timing belt less than 20,000 miles. Ball joints and (tie rods mainly), re torque wheel bearings, oil pan gasket or at least turbo return line gasket.

 

[tsiboosted]

Excellent write-up. Road-race is more of my style than the drag strip. To many sudden failures on the straight strip and the those high dollar signs when you break.

As you noted, not everything has to be purchased at once, especially when starting out in the lower rungs like autocross that can be done with nearly stock setups. As the driver increases performance, they can drop a little more into outfitting the vehicle with safety equipment to match the increased risks that driver feels comfortable making.

Thank you. Yeah, I really wanted to try and stress that I did NOT buy all this at once. It took me the better part of 6 months to save a little here, buy something there to get my car ready for the series start. Autocross is an Excellent way to learn car control under speed and give you an idea of what you need to improve on as a driver as well as what your car needs to improve handeling.

I think we all can agree that there is nothing better than chasing down viper or Z06 through the twisties. Its like playing need for speed when i was 14, i never thought I would be doing it in real life.

Great writeup! and for those new to the auto-x roadracing, dont let the cost get to you, its worth EVERY penny.

It is funny to me sometimes when my little 4 cylinder gets to fly by a Vette or some other big V8 out on the track. I always get a little smile on my face during a practice run when they have to point me by.

this would be my list in order if I started over.

4 or 5 point harness (my green car had the stock belts with no tension so it was uncomfortable, I jammed a pillow in between me and the door for RA to keep me from sliding in the seat)
camber bolts or plates
hood vents (if your running higher speed tracks put on a valance)
general exclaim uhp tires or Toyos if you have the cash
AWD brakes and race pads
agx or koni shocks/struts
16g turbo and upgrade clutch disc
sway bars
FMIC along with some sort of cooling upgrade

Things I would highly recommend replacing with new before you start getting serious, are a-arm bushing, pref poly bushing. Timing belt less than 20,000 miles. Ball joints and (tie rods mainly), re torque wheel bearings, oil pan gasket or at least turbo return line gasket.

Racing harnesses are VERY important. They not only provide great safety, but also keep your ass planted in the seat. You are not sliding around in the seat going through a turn at speed. As far as a FMIC for road racing, I am not sold on the idea. I have read that people experience over heating on long stints on the track. If I had the money, I would like someday to try thr "V-Mount" setup in the front. I believe Greg did that and it worked out pretty well for him. I know my water temps get to about 210 - 212 during a 20 minute race as of now. That doesnt seem to be too bad from people I have spoken to and articles I have read. But a good point on the replacement parts there.

 

[D_Eclipse9916]

this would be my list in order if I started over.

4 or 5 point harness (my green car had the stock belts with no tension so it was uncomfortable, I jammed a pillow in between me and the door for RA to keep me from sliding in the seat)
camber bolts or plates
hood vents (if your running higher speed tracks put on a valance)
general exclaim uhp tires or Toyos if you have the cash
AWD brakes and race pads
agx or koni shocks/struts
16g turbo and upgrade clutch disc
sway bars
FMIC along with some sort of cooling upgrade

Things I would highly recommend replacing with new before you start getting serious, are a-arm bushing, pref poly bushing. Timing belt less than 20,000 miles. Ball joints and (tie rods mainly), re torque wheel bearings, oil pan gasket or at least turbo return line gasket.

^^^^ Good points made here, I only have 23,000 miles on my timing belt and in the next few weeks I am replacing it.

FMIC is pure preference, if you get it, youll have to do other cooling upgrades (carbontrix vent, air-to-oil cooler, ducting), however if you have a smic, your gonna heatsoak the shit out of your intake charge, possibly also risking your motor and making it more prone to knock. I think there is a balance to be had here. As I already had a fmic, I run ducting and the carbon trix vent, and along iwth my timing belt ill be installing an external oil cooler setup. Coolant temps are fine, but I have no idea where my oil temps are and im sure they arent good.


Also to people on a budget, contact your local organization and see if you can work weekends. With NASA Mid-Atlantic, I have not spent a dime, instead I work for them on weekends (2 work weekends= 1 free HPDE weekend) they also provide lunches, dinner on saturday, Hotel rooms, and you meet everyone there and learn a lot more about racing then strictly doing events. That is what I do, and many should consider this is they are on a tight budget, as it literally halves the cost of racing not paying entry fees.

 

[tsiboosted]

^^^^ Good points made here, I only have 23,000 miles on my timing belt and in the next few weeks I am replacing it.

FMIC is pure preference, if you get it, youll have to do other cooling upgrades (carbontrix vent, air-to-oil cooler, ducting), however if you have a smic, your gonna heatsoak the shit out of your intake charge, possibly also risking your motor and making it more prone to knock. I think there is a balance to be had here. As I already had a fmic, I run ducting and the carbon trix vent, and along iwth my timing belt ill be installing an external oil cooler setup. Coolant temps are fine, but I have no idea where my oil temps are and im sure they arent good.


Also to people on a budget, contact your local organization and see if you can work weekends. With NASA Mid-Atlantic, I have not spent a dime, instead I work for them on weekends (2 work weekends= 1 free HPDE weekend) they also provide lunches, dinner on saturday, Hotel rooms, and you meet everyone there and learn a lot more about racing then strictly doing events. That is what I do, and many should consider this is they are on a tight budget, as it literally halves the cost of racing not paying entry fees.

Very good point on helping out your local club with whatever organization you race with. Not only is it cheaper to do so, you are also helping promote and just help out the region you are racing in. Goes along way with a lot of people.

My oil temps are way up there, around 250, depending on how long the session is. I have spoken to other racers there and their oil temps are around the same area. Some lower, some higher. I talked to few guys that have raced DSM's in the past and said that was fine. Also my mechanic seems to think it is fine as well. Nothing bad has come from any of the temps I seem to be hitting. So I am not concerned with it as of right now. (knock on wood) that I have yet to experience any over heating issues and I race in the south where it gets over 110 degrees with the heat index as well. So I cant even imagine how hot the track gets.

 

[kmoore]

Is there any cheaper alternative to road racing beside working at the races, or auto X? I'd really like to race on an actual track rather than around some cones. I am extremely new to road racing. I don't need to do this 6 month deal. Just if I can get in a race for here and there would be fine with me. I don't know how the system works so any help would be great.

Edit:
The reason I ask this question is because I am already setup for road racing. For example, I have the cage, 5 point harnesses, full suspension, tires, big brake kit, the whole bit. I just don't want to spend the excessive amount of money on the races. Thanks

 

[tsiboosted]

Is there any cheaper alternative to road racing beside working at the races, or auto X? I'd really like to race on an actual track rather than around some cones. I am extremely new to road racing. I don't need to do this 6 month deal. Just if I can get in a race for here and there would be fine with me. I don't know how the system works so any help would be great.

Edit:
The reason I ask this question is because I am already setup for road racing. For example, I have the cage, 5 point harnesses, full suspension, tires, big brake kit, the whole bit. I just don't want to spend the excessive amount of money on the races. Thanks

Well it all depends on what and how many events you want to do. If you want to race in a competetive series, then it will obviously cost more than just say an open track day event. But if you are just looking to go out and run your car on a "real" track and not an autocross course, then I believe your best bet may be to check in with your regional PCA (Porsche Club of America) and BMW clubs around your area. They are always having track days and you do NOT have to have a Porsche or a BMW to participate. I have done several of these events and they are fun and pretty affordable depending on how long and what track you are going to be going to. I hope some of this helps.

Here is the link for the PCA in St. Louis. You may want to start there and see who you would need to contact maybe for a list of events.

St. Louis PCA

 

[Slow old poop]

I figure it cost me $1,000 per weekend--if I didn't break anything major. That covers entry fee, gas for the truck, 25 gallons of 110 octane race gas, hotel (two rooms--one for the crew), meals (me and the crew), and brake pads. A set of Carbotech pads last me two weekends (I USE my brakes).

Add to that the cost of maintenance (oil change every time) and all the little stuff that breaks--hoses, clamps, wires, seals, belts, etc. If you are lucky, this can be as low as the 5-cent seal on the oil pressure sending unit that broke at Road America.

What was the killer for me was the cost of Hoosiers. To be competitive against the Big Boys requires running Hoosiers. A set of 275x17 Hoosiers is $1200 and you have to replace them EVERY OTHER EVENT. Toyos, on the other hand, last forever, but are 2-3 seconds a lap slower. That's one of the things that ended my racing career. When I do this again, it will only be HPDEs for fun, and it will be on Toyos.

 

[tsiboosted]

I figure it cost me $1,000 per weekend--if I didn't break anything major. That covers entry fee, gas for the truck, 25 gallons of 110 octane race gas, hotel (two rooms--one for the crew), meals (me and the crew), and brake pads. A set of Carbotech pads last me two weekends (I USE my brakes).

Add to that the cost of maintenance (oil change every time) and all the little stuff that breaks--hoses, clamps, wires, seals, belts, etc. If you are lucky, this can be as low as the 5-cent seal on the oil pressure sending unit that broke at Road America.

What was the killer for me was the cost of Hoosiers. To be competitive against the Big Boys requires running Hoosiers. A set of 275x17 Hoosiers is $1200 and you have to replace them EVERY OTHER EVENT. Toyos, on the other hand, last forever, but are 2-3 seconds a lap slower. That's one of the things that ended my racing career. When I do this again, it will only be HPDEs for fun, and it will be on Toyos.

I can truely understand the cost sided of things Rich. I do not run 110 octane, I just run 104 which is $3.80 a gallon here in sunny Florida. I do change my oil every event, but I have a local shop here as a sponsor and they supply me with all my regular maintenance stuff on the car. (VERY lucky there)

With tires, I dont run Hoosiers (cost wise) I actually run Avon Tech R's. A few people I have talked to do not like the Avons. I love them on my car. I have ran all 3 events so far this year; including practice days, and they still have some good runs left in them. Plus, at $500 for all 4 shipped to me, I cannot beat that deal. My dad atcually was very impressed with them and ended up running a set on his Panoz Esperante GTS and loves them as well.

I hope to see you get back on the track with a daily driver/racer sometime soon Rich. Good luck !!!