Hard into 3rd after 1 hour at the track

[TKW#13]

I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem? In April I ran GT Live at Miller Motorsports Park and after the first three run groups goinig into third was hard. I checked my clucth fluid and it was almost empty, so I filled it back up and continued to run the rest of the day. Now if I am pushing my car hard third is still a little hard to get into. I am going to go to a MPRA at MMP on September 22nd so any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[talonTSIDriver]

I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem? In April I ran GT Live at Miller Motorsports Park and after the first three run groups goinig into third was hard. I checked my clucth fluid and it was almost empty, so I filled it back up and continued to run the rest of the day. Now if I am pushing my car hard third is still a little hard to get into. I am going to go to a MPRA at MMP on September 22nd so any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

If you keep losing fluid, I would replace both master and slave cylinder, combined you should be able to pick them both up for under $120 and if you plan on racing your car, its best to start replacing all that old stuff.

 

[TKW#13]

I have checked it often and it is ok. Is there a higher temp rated fluid I should use? For brake fluid I run Super Blue Racing for high temps and I did not lose any brake fluid.

 

[talonTSIDriver]

I have checked it often and it is ok. Is there a higher temp rated fluid I should use? For brake fluid I run Super Blue Racing for high temps and I did not lose any brake fluid.

your clutch fluid should not see nearly as high of pressure or heat like your brake fluid does. What kind of tranny fluid are you using. When I ran Sycromesh in my tranny, I seemed to have a hard time going into gear after a few laps. I switched to regular 80-90 gear oil and have not had any issue at all.

 

[TKW#13]

I don't know what fluid is in the tranny I have only had my DSM since January I will do a total clean out of all my fluids before the track day. I do have to say you have a clean looking TSI.

 

[TKW#13]

Here is a pic of my car before the race in April (and coilovers) I put spacers under the hood to help air flow and my car ran so nice at 120+ degree track temp.

 

[talonTSIDriver]

those spacers in the hood are not a bad idea. I will have to give that a shot. thanks for the compliment.

More pics Here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=266219

 

[Elvenhome21]

those spacers might be a negative, because the front of the windsheild is very high pressure and the under hood is low pressure so the under hood would be pressurized causing more air to be forced under the car which is never a good thing.

 

[talonTSIDriver]

I have heard of that before as well, but nothing really proven. I ordered a hood vent and will be having that in soon. Last lapping day my car was about 210-220F after 4 or more laps. I think if the hood vent keeps me under 210, I'll be more than happy, at least for now.

 

[Slow old poop]

I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem? In April I ran GT Live at Miller Motorsports Park and after the first three run groups goinig into third was hard. I checked my clucth fluid and it was almost empty, so I filled it back up and continued to run the rest of the day. Now if I am pushing my car hard third is still a little hard to get into. I am going to go to a MPRA at MMP on September 22nd so any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Yes, I've had the same problem, and the solution was the same every time.

Check your transmission mounting bolts. When they come loose, the tranny no longer aligns properly and is hard to shift when it gets hot. I have been plagued with this problem to the point where we had to safety-wire the bolts. In my 1G, it was always the 3-4 or 4-3 shift that went south. The two most likely candidates are the easiest to get to--in the lower right and lower left corners of the tranny. If these are loose or missing (been there, done that), you better check them all. Put them back in with Loc-Tite or safety wire.

Check the "ear" on the engine where the lower right corner of the transmission bolts up. It is very close to the front motor mount. If this ear is broken off, don't despair. We have a solution that does not require a new block.

 

[TKW#13]

Yes, I've had the same problem, and the solution was the same every time.

Check your transmission mounting bolts. When they come loose, the tranny no longer aligns properly and is hard to shift when it gets hot. I have been plagued with this problem to the point where we had to safety-wire the bolts. In my 1G, it was always the 3-4 or 4-3 shift that went south. The two most likely candidates are the easiest to get to--in the lower right and lower left corners of the tranny. If these are loose or missing (been there, done that), you better check them all. Put them back in with Loc-Tite or safety wire.

Check the "ear" on the engine where the lower right corner of the transmission bolts up. It is very close to the front motor mount. If this ear is broken off, don't despair. We have a solution that does not require a new block.

Thanks, I will check this out today.

 

[DROOPY209]

Yes, I've had the same problem, and the solution was the same every time.

Check your transmission mounting bolts. When they come loose, the tranny no longer aligns properly and is hard to shift when it gets hot. I have been plagued with this problem to the point where we had to safety-wire the bolts. In my 1G, it was always the 3-4 or 4-3 shift that went south. The two most likely candidates are the easiest to get to--in the lower right and lower left corners of the tranny. If these are loose or missing (been there, done that), you better check them all. Put them back in with Loc-Tite or safety wire.

Check the "ear" on the engine where the lower right corner of the transmission bolts up. It is very close to the front motor mount. If this ear is broken off, don't despair. We have a solution that does not require a new block.

I HAVE to agree, after today's experience. I rebuilt the clutch master cylinder today and when I was done installing it, I told my sister to pump the clutch while I bled the slave. I also have a ACT 2600 in there.

Needless to say, the bottom side of the transmission was moving AWAY from the engine with the clutch pedal to the floor. I'm not talking about a small amount either.....I'm talking about half an inch or more of separation from the engine.

 

[Slow old poop]

I HAVE to agree, after today's experience...The bottom side of the transmission was moving AWAY from the engine with the clutch pedal to the floor. I'm not talking about a small amount either.....I'm talking about half an inch or more of separation from the engine.

Once in a blue moon, I am actually right about something. Or, as we say here in Iowa, even a blind squirrel finds a chestnut once in a while. Thanks for the confirmation. Now I am with child in anticipation of what TKW might find.

Rich

 

[RipperXX]

I have heard of that before as well, but nothing really proven. I ordered a hood vent and will be having that in soon. Last lapping day my car was about 210-220F after 4 or more laps. I think if the hood vent keeps me under 210, I'll be more than happy, at least for now.

Ever here of Cowl induction? Theres your proof. Hood spacers don't help get any hot air out of the engine bay except when the car is sitting still. And then it shouldn't be a concern.

If it really helped that much don't you think the manufacture would have left it open back there? Instead the sealed it with a piece of weather stripping, and trust me no manufacture spends more money on a car than they have too.

 

[talonTSIDriver]

Ever here of Cowl induction? Theres your proof. Hood spacers don't help get any hot air out of the engine bay except when the car is sitting still. And then it shouldn't be a concern.

If it really helped that much don't you think the manufacture would have left it open back there? Instead the sealed it with a piece of weather stripping, and trust me no manufacture spends more money on a car than they have too.

A cowl induction on our cars would look just weird. instead its better to make some sort of hood vent, kinda like how the evo's hood.

 

[TKW#13]

Yes, I've had the same problem, and the solution was the same every time.

Check your transmission mounting bolts. When they come loose, the tranny no longer aligns properly and is hard to shift when it gets hot. I have been plagued with this problem to the point where we had to safety-wire the bolts. In my 1G, it was always the 3-4 or 4-3 shift that went south. The two most likely candidates are the easiest to get to--in the lower right and lower left corners of the tranny. If these are loose or missing (been there, done that), you better check them all. Put them back in with Loc-Tite or safety wire.

Check the "ear" on the engine where the lower right corner of the transmission bolts up. It is very close to the front motor mount. If this ear is broken off, don't despair. We have a solution that does not require a new block.

Well I had one loose bolt and I also sprayed wd-40 on the shift linkage and it seems to be working just fine now. Thanks for the info.