My trip to the road course.(long)

[pkieley]

I have been wrenching/tuning/building my car for the 1/4 going 3 years now(have not made it to the track yet which is 4 hours away...might never go to the 1320 now...read on).

Well last month I was in the garage wrenching on the Stealth and heard on the radio about a local autocross. I'm sick of working on and babying my cars now so I throw down the wrenches and head to parking lot.

Needles to say I had a great time, met lots of different car people and drove some different cars. My times were in the middle of the pack, but after penalties for mods I'm dead last overall. Didn't care...for I was hooked!

Went home and started my research. Now you can't research autox without coming across references to road course racing. I said hey...that looks like something more suitable for a 1g DSM. I want to build my car for that! Speaking of can nots: You can't research suspension without coming across a post by NDgsx!

Holy active rear toe Batman this stuff is technical! But there was hope. Most of ND's posts ended with him saying the best money spent was on driver education and practice.
Big problem...the nearest track is 8 hours away!

Now I'm not one to give up and I could tell road racing would be fun. Like everyone else I'm been following Greg Collier's racing career and he is an inspiration! He said in one of his journals that one can't sit back and wait for somebody to hand things to you, you have to go out and work for it. That's what I did.

I overcame the logistical problems and got everthing set up to attend a driving course at Race City in Calgary.

The day finally comes. I'm up at 0300 and on the road at 0430. I get to Calgary around 1pm and straight to the schools office for the classroom portion of the course. Get out of there at 2 and head to the hotel to drop my gear and have a shower. Back out again so I can find the track for 4:30.

There's four other cars in the course: a JDM Z, an Impreza and 2 911s. The first night we practice braking, heel toe shifting(which I have a hard time with and end up using the outside of my foot for the gas) and line interpretation using half the track without the straights. Even half the track is an absolute riot and darkness comes all too soon. I can't wait for tomorrow! Back to the hotel and I'm too wound up to sleep...end up watching Speed TV for most of the night knowing I can sleep in.

Up at nine and off to the coaters to drop off my control arms for powdering. Some last minute wrenching in the parking lot of Canadian Tire(new rad cap) and I hit the Mohawk with the "low fuel" light on to top her off with some 94 Octane. I get to the track early and have to wait around. But finally it's time.

And what a freaking blast! I didn't realise it was going to be so fast!

The longest frontstraight in Canada (and the 2nd in NA), wind her up to 220kph if you dare, double downshift(perfect heel-toe quick!) then turns 123 bang bang bang! Accelerate out of turn 3 and a tap of the brakes for four. Get on the gas and keep on it for turn 5: a sweeping right(this is where a good set of sway bars would be nice!) with a slight rise to slow if you get in trouble. Tap the brakes again for six then the important chicane is coming at you very quick. Got to find a good line through here to carry speed onto the backstraight! The backstraight is nothing to sneeze at either, 150+ with a slight crest in the braking zone making you a bit light. Holy shit there's concrete walls all around. Got to learn how to trail brake(and squeese a downshift in) in a few milliseconds! Whew! made turn 9. Nother downshift/brake and I'm trying to get my turn radius and hold it for the hairpin of 10...all the while trying not to bleed off speed and end up with a long radius for turn 11, the most important. Still turning and hard on the gas. Pinned back against my seat and grabbing my short-ass gears like crazy! Ah, but the sound of the wastegate blowing through my straight 3" and bouncing off the barriers has me grinning and hooting like a blithering idiot. Wonder if I can get a LOA from work for all of next summer!?

Car was working great(straight line anway). Filled up with the 94 and saw 3 counts of knock max at 18lbs. Winter mods are going to be some high end brakes and suspension goodies...and a cage!!!

I've got to thank Nick and Greg for the advice and inspiration. I know it sounds corny and toady but I wouldn't have gotten started if it wasn't for them.

First thing in the spring I will be taking a course that certifies me for sanctioned road racing and I can't wait. Meantime going to spend some money on books at Amazon.

Cheers,

Phil

P.S. Sorry for the long post with no pics.

 

[andymoraitis]

Phil,

Who needs pics when your story is that descriptive? I too am starting feel ho-hum about the quarter mile and while it was fun, autocross and road course are much more of a test to the car and the driver. I'm pleased you found your niche and that you overcame the logistics of making this happen.

Let's hear some more of these stories in the future and please keep us posted on your progress. Your enthusiasm is infectious!

Andy

 

[mavisky]

Sounds great. I'm slowly working my car up to being ready for similar events. I really just need a few more things and I'm ready for the casual but competitive lapping day. Namely dual stage boost controller (in progress), new pads/lines/fluid for the brakes (no biggie), and some adjustable front camber plates (winter project).

Crap that is a long course. I think my fwd would love that setup

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[pkieley]

Thanks for the encouragement Andy! I will keep you guys updated.

Thanks for posting the map Kyle...I wanted to post it but had trouble with my pic hosting web site.

I think the fastest time for a GT1 is around 1:18. I guess a timer is going to be in order as lapping days aren't timed.

Right now it's back to work on the Stealth as I'm getting some heat from my wife to get it out of the garage.

Phil

 

[mavisky]

No problem, it's actually just linked off of their site right now. Car's looking real good right now. Good to see people using these cars for more than just going down the 1/4mile.

 

[Defiant]

Good job. I remember my days at Sears Point, and finding out what racing really is. Once you're on a course and it's just you and your car, and the same continuous string of corners, each of which has to be set up just right to make the third one after this, you find out just how good racers are.

 

[Greg Collier]

How cool is this!!! Between the problems with the site and racing this past weekend this was the first time I've been able to get on the site. When I saw your write-up I was totally jazzed. It's so cool to hear that you're out there running your car and actually doing it

Keep up the good work and I look forward to your next installment

Greg

 

[drivemusicnow]

I'm too going down this path, however i got the bright idea to build it all first and then start taking it to the track. Oh well, never said i'd be on the track soon.

I did have a couple questions however... you mention the active rear toe on the 1gs... Is there anyway to fix this other than the 300$ DSS metal bushing?

And any other suggestions as far as classes/certifications/licenses and what not go? any to avoid or try hard to make.

 

[pkieley]

Sorry I'm late.

There's at least one company(Whiteline) making a bushing for the rear toe.

Here's a couple of really good threads:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104697&page=1&pp=25&highlight=hotbits+spring+rates

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138306&highlight=addressing+handling+problems

You've been to Sports Car Club of America's site of course........?

I'm going to try to tech safety for sanctioned racing...after that there's always a class for you. I think I'd want to tech sanctioned safety even if I end up not going bumber to bumper.....at least the cage anyway.

I'm also for sure going to do the competition licencing school in the spring...even if I don't use the licence!
You got to get to the track! You won't regret it. You will have to do a school(it doesn't have to be the licencing one) to get on the track and your nearest track should have a list of schools. Make sure honest with yourself about how safe your car is. I wouldn't be suprised if the instructor teched you autocross style, although mine didn't.

Get up and get out there! Driving on the street is no comparison to a road course! I still can't get over how much fun it was! And keep us posted!

 

[mavisky]

I'll probably make my first "road course" event at Putnam Park here in Indiana to make sure all is ok as far as cooling system. I'm just about certain this radiator won't hold up to multiple laps.

 

[cait sith]

If you're worried about your radiator, you're going to have an even bigger problem with your oil cooling system.

I was hitting 120° celcius at the head at NHIS on oil temps and hit 104ish on water temps in the upper water pipe with a Koyo, Apexi front mount, a modded thermostat, 1.3 kg/mm cap, and the little weenie stock water/oil cooler.

So I went out and blew a bunch of money on a Greddy 13 row oil cooler. Well, actually I had already ordered it but it hadn't arrived before the event.

http://www.syntheticpawn.com/junk/greddy1.jpg
http://www.syntheticpawn.com/junk/greddy2.jpg

Oh yeah, and if you haven't fabricated a dipstick catch yet, do this before you pop yours out. 4G63 valve covers have the crappiest breather system ever.

 

[mavisky]

Yea, the 90 oil filter housing and aftermarket oil cooler will be in progress this year. FYI, my dipstick is in awfully damned tight. It takes two hands to check the oil right now , i haven't had any issues at all so far during a 1/4 mile pass or during autox, but I'll remember to keep an eye on it. I'd also like to get a decent fire extinguisher in there for any potential "oh shjixt" moments.

 

[Greg Collier]

It takes two hands to check the oil right now , i haven't had any issues at all so far

That's what I said until my engine went up in flames

 

[Quasimondo]

I'm working on my car this winter to have it set up for some HPDE track days next spring. It's almost ready and hopefully when I hit the track, I'll have a good camcorder to take some good footage. I wanted to try it this year, but all of the work I had to do on the engine pushed me back by a year, so hopefully I'll be road racing the Banshee soon.

 

[pkieley]

I've got that honkin big Kinetic FMIC in front of my rad. Should I go back to a side mount or break out the hole saw, or both? (EVOIIIB16g)

And how about power steering - will I need a cooler for that?

Nice picture, Rich!

the Banshee!?

 

[cait sith]

Mavisky: Use a small worm gear clamp (Like one for fuel hoses) and make a small hook with some coat hanger, or use a small spring, and tighten the clamp down on the hook setup. I run around 1.5kg/cm, higher on the lower gears. Things like to pop out.

How exactly thick is that Kinetic IC? Bar and plate? Any ducting done behind it to the radiator?

My Apexi core supposedly has more "airflow through" than standard cores, but who really knows.

 

[pkieley]

The core is 24"x12"x3.5" - bar and plate.

No ducting. The stock stuff was removed for the FMIC. I've got the hood latch removed now, so I'm going to close in that area with a sheet from the top of the bumper cover to the rad support and punch some holes in the cover up top.

 

[Greg Collier]

The core is 24"x12"x3.5" - bar and plate.

No ducting. The stock stuff was removed for the FMIC. I've got the hood latch removed now, so I'm going to close in that area with a sheet from the top of the bumper cover to the rad support and punch some holes in the cover up top.

So what are you going to do when there's no clean air, and your balls out on the ass of another car on the track sucking up all his hot air for a half dozen laps. When doing modifications think about the actual conditions that those modifications will be applied.

 

[pkieley]

So are you suggesting go back to the side mount and treat cooling as extreme high importance?

 

[Greg Collier]

So are you suggesting go back to the side mount and treat cooling as extreme high importance?

You can get a clean and consistent 400 HP out of a large custom sidemount. If you trim some fat off your car what more do you need. Do what you need to do to your motor to get the HP then tune it to the max. Don't just count on pushing a huge volume of air through your IC to produce your power. Everything in your engine compartment needs to be cooled, especially your turbo. This has been my biggest and most expensive lesson in road racing.
Then you've got to learn how to drive the frigging thing. A task I have yet to master

Greg

 

[terefic181]

So are you suggesting go back to the side mount and treat cooling as extreme high importance?

A little more on the subject that goes along with Greg. This was from Mike Welch of Road Race Engineering a few years ago. (and I hope he doesn't mind me posting this)

"Subject: RE: question for all the road racers Road racing and time trials/open tracking are completely different. In road racing you can go right up on someone's bumper and just sit there at 120 mph. Making 300+ hp like that with no air flow, you have to make all your own cooling. Every little thing helps. We are always power limited by how much heat we can get rid of. Right now with a 3" thick huge Griffin radiator, 3 Spal 12" fans, gutted thermostat, water wetter, cut up bumper for more air flow, lots of attention to dusting, a large Earls oil cooler, 2 hood vents, 7 gallons of boost activated water spray from 4 mister nozzles, a Fluidyne Civic radiator in the spare tire well cooling the coolant that would be going to the heater core with it's own fan blowing out the bottom of the car... we still can only run 16-17 psi in heavy traffic. Eclipses have a very low frontal area, Lancers and GVR-4s have a nice upright face with a large grill and a lower inlet to. There is a price to pay for that swoopy "sports car" look. The front of an EVO 7 now is almost entirely all grille. They have a factory I/C water sprayer too that also hits the radiator. An EVO FMIC is about the same thing as a regular size GReddy kit. Mike W"

Tom

 

[D_Eclipse9916]

Alright, I autocross and Road Race and notice right now on my completely stock car, except for brake upgrades and tires that my temperature is about fine until I come to a stop where it slightly rises and then settles down. Now I had planned on getting a front mount as I have just aquired a big 16G, and planning on putting down around 300whp for my trips to the track. However all this cooling has me worried.

I was thinking that if I got a front mount, for track days I would have a completely different hood. AKA have a stock hood with holes cut out between every brace. That way there would be incoming air from the outside and there would be tONS of air to get out also. I was worried about aerodynamics and a way to brace the hood so that it did not fly off or break.

I was thinking that but I knew something had to be amiss as to why you guys wouldnt already be utilizing hoods with huge holes in them for airflow. Wouldnt that pretty much solve the problem in airflow and also for temps rising for intakes and cooling the radiator, turbo and engine?

Please smack me if im being a complete idiot, but this would allow a front mount so I wouldnt have the IC heatsoak during these long races....

 

[terefic181]

D_Eclipse9916, No smack here but...
You can, of course, have the engine run hot with the hood completely off. It seems to be the amount and quality (temp) of the air, your able to get through the radiator. If your putting, essentially a heater, in front of the radiator (FMIC), the quality of air and also the quantity of air (it also blocks a certain amount of air) that passes across the the engine radiator fins, is diminished. The amount of air that leaves the engine compartment is of course important also, so that, that air (stagnant) doesn't act as a blocking mechanism, but as long as the exit area is enough to meet that exit requirement your good. The air will normally get out somewhere, there's a large exit area below the engine bay, but of course, you would rather have it exit above not below, for areo reasons (lift).

That said, track days may or may not be a problem for you, if you go with the FMIC. It certainly can though if you end up on someones butt for a while.

Tom

 

[Slow old poop]

D_Eclipse9916, The amount of air that leaves the engine compartment is of course important also, so that, that air (stagnant) doesn't act as a blocking mechanism, but as long as the exit area is enough to meet that exit requirement your good. The air will normally get out somewhere, there's a large exit area below the engine bay, but of course, you would rather have it exit above not below, for areo reasons (lift). Tom

I know where there is a spare hood in primer for $100, so I am thinking about getting it and trying some hood surgery. A DSM at Road America had a slot about 3x18 in. cut just above the radiator, with a front lip that helped scavenge out the air. Or is it the venturi effect? Anyway, I thought I'd start there.

As long as I have a disposable hood on which I can cut gloriously, what else should I do?

1. Install a front-facing scoop to bring cold air to the K&N?

2. Cut louvers to let hot air escape? If so, where? Front, middle, rear or all over? Does anybody cut louvers any more, or did they only appear on '32 street rods with flathead engines? Can't say as how I've seen any louvers recently.

3. Install a rear-facing scoop at the bottom of the windshield to let air escape?

All advice welcome.

Rich

 

[mavisky]

I'm currently working on making an intake vent out of a spare headlight I had. Teaser photo-

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and I've been thinking that putting a vent or louvers on the hood behind the filter would be nice to help pull the air back over it since I don't have room to build a cold air box without completely redoing my upper ic pip.