Car is bogging At WOT

[power=dsm]

Well today i was on the highway and i was with a friend, and he wanted to see some dsm power so i tried and show him. but there was a slight problem, when i floored my car it was bogging after 5000rpm the car got all weird on me, but if i don't floor it and give t gas slowly it won't do it. i just did a compression check and everything is ok, i have new spark plugs and all that. right now i'm think it's my transmission.
it's weird though because my boost was going from 14-10 followed with the car bogging. my turbo is new as well.
Right now i'm thinking this:1) it was cold outside 8 F
2) my tork converter is finished
any help would be nice

 

[GTM]

Originally posted by power=dsm
Well today i was on the highway
...
when i floored my car it was bogging after 5000rpm the car got all weird on me, but if i don't floor it and give t gas slowly it won't do it. i just did a compression check and everything is ok, i have new spark plugs and all that. right now i'm think it's my transmission. it's weird though because my boost was going from 14-10 followed with the car bogging. my turbo is new as well.
Right now i'm thinking this:1) it was cold outside 8 F ... 2) my tork converter is finished
any help would be nice

Yegads, no body is supposed to be out when it's that cold. brrrr.

I think you can pretty much rule out the torque converter... some exceptions.

Same thing with the tranny though I have seen them try and go into 2 gears at the same time. Mostly when kickdown comes into effect it stays in one gear and engages another clutch pack. They don't do this for very long for there are some very pungent odors and smoke associated with burning tranny oil and clutch packs as one causes the other to slip. Definately a bad thing. Since kickdown is controlled by throttle position all you have to do is back off and reapply a bit more slowly.

However this could be just as simple as a clogged fuel filter or a fuel pump acting up when you ask it to do too much work too fast. It could also be a temp sensor that doesn't like the cold possibly because it's failing. Gosh a couple more thoughts, you could try putting a piece of cardboard blocking off 1/3-1/2 of the radiator to help it run warmer. Another is to throw an old blanket over the engine so it's not getting so much cold air wash. Needless to say that must be placed and tied down so it can't touch the exhaust or wind up in some belt and blame me. I've done these things when I use to ski a lot but that was a long time ago.

BTW, what was that comment about the torque converter being finished, is it making noises??

I'm sure there are others who have other ideas, those are just some of the possibilities.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[GTM]

Originally posted by power=dsm
Well today i was on the highway
...

I don't have a book in front of me and I'm almost afraid to say the words. It involves an automat transmission and it's called a "stall test". Basicaly it should be done by a professional mechanic that rebuilds auto transmissions for he knows what to expect and when to stop the test if he doesn't like how things are behaving.

This test is for a standard car with _NO_ modifications to increase horse power. I will not be responsible if someone tries it and their tranny blows up. That goes for even a stock un-modified car, but in the spirit of DIY diagnosing problems and information/knowledge here goes.

Car is properly warmed up. With the handbrake fully set, your foot firmly on the brakes, you put in D (drive) and push the accelerator to the floor and hold it there for the designated time given in the auto trans section of your manual. Depending on car maker this can be any place from 15 seconds to 1 full minute. Your tach should read between 2500-3000 rpm, the engine is stalled and can't go any faster. If anything develops while doing the test you stop immediately and put in neutral which allows oil to circulate through the valve body clutch packs torque converter and bearings. Read my lips... _anything_ other than the engine straining.

You do not repeat the test for another 5 minutes for everything has to cool down. The test can be conducted with or without all the auto tranny gauges hooked up, if something is heard the pro would get his gauge set and check all the pressures... and I mean pressures for the pump puts out several hundred psi (350-600) to clamp the clutch packs down so they don't slip.

That's pretty much it, if someone has the exact specs for this test it would be useful to post it.

They obviously would handle a standard production car but to what safety factor when people start adding all the mods. So you know the test exists but fear and common sense must prevail should you ever decide to try it. Remember I said professional trained auto mechanic.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[power=dsm]

k thanx for the info

do you think i'm getting fuel cut eith my car?? is there any way to tell with out a logger?

 

[IHeartTurbo]

If it's jsut bogging, then no, it's not fuel cut. If you were getting fuel cut, you would know, trust me, it's like hitting a brick wall.

 

[power=dsm]

well the car is accelerating then bang it stops and then goes and stops like i feel it alot in my car when it was doing it. at first my rpm were stopping then climbing then stop then climbing ect all the way up, but as soon as i accelerated normally it didn't do it.

 

[IHeartTurbo]

If you hit fuel cut, there is no more accelerating after that even at 1/4 or so throttle, at least that's how it has been for me.