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alternator??

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t90tsi

20+ Year Contributor
43
0
Jan 29, 2003
i just replaced the alternator, and a couple nights when i was driving i noticed that my interior lights and head lights would get really bright for about 10 seconds and then dim again. car kept doing this for about 30mins then quit doing it. it does this every night, and i can also hear my fuel pump's whine go down for a couple of secs and then get loud again. whats the deal? i know i have that plug in the alternator, and that strap that is bolted down with the 10mm nut is on there tight. the belt is also has good tension on it. do i have a defective alternator? any feed back would be appreciated.
thanx
 
Could very well be the Voltage regulator in the Alt - make SURE you have no Power Steering fuid leaks because that's what takes a lot of these out - It is also reported that this Higher Voltage can fry your ECU (another 400 to $1400!!). I just had my Bumper to Bumper guy look up the Highest Amp Mitsu Alternator that would fit - It was about $150.00

max amperage 121 amps

- 100 amps at 3000rpm

max 1548 watts

Manufacturer Ampere - p/n 21491

Make damn sure you have no P/S leaks!!!!!

_____________________________

Good Luck...
 
no power steering fluid leaks, resevoir still full. dont know what the deal is. im also afraid of fying the ecu. is it common for the voltage regulators to be screwy in alternators? i got mine from o'rielys.
 
yeh, the voltage regulator is normally the first thing to go on our alternators. Looks like you have to pull it again. But yeh, what the voltage regulator does, is just makes the alternator put out a consistant amount of voltage...yours is varing so it is bad.
 
im pissed cause its only a week old and its screwing up already. i talked to a friend of mine and he said he went through 4 oreilys alternators, 2 were overcharging and 2 didnt charge at all. im just ticked i live 200 miles away from home and dont have tools to work on my car, can only work on it when im home. there was nothing wrong with the old one just wanted to replace it cause the car has 254k miles on it and did it as part of my preventive maintenance.

any good ideas of things i can tell orielys when i go to take it back so they will give me a full refund instead of pawn off another potential failure prone alternator on me? i wanna get one from mitsu, thats what i shoulda done but they werent open over the weekend.
 
Originally posted by t90tsi
im pissed cause its only a week old and its screwing up already.
...
i wanna get one from mitsu, thats what i shoulda done but they werent open over the weekend.

As well you should be. If policy is no refunds you are stuck.

Before you pull the thing you need to know what the charging voltages are as well as the amp output. If you don't have the tools then you will have to have it tested to prove it's acting up. Any relationship to fan(s) coming on and off when the lights change?

Cheers,
GTM
 
im thinking that the fan kicks off because when it does it i can see a significant rise in the water temperature gauge. usually it will sit below the little symbol, and when it happens the needle goes well past the symbol. the low fuel light comes on too when the system overcharges, and the fuel pump sounds like its about to blow out of the fuel tank. then when it stops overcharging everything goes back to normal including the water temp.

i priced an alternator at the dealership today, $260, with $20 exchange does this sound like the right price? i know its about a $100 more than i paid for the one i have now.
is there any place i can find a mitsu alternator cheaper?
 
Originally posted by t90tsi
im thinking that the fan kicks off because when it does it i can see a significant rise in the water temperature gauge.
...

the low fuel light comes on too when the system overcharges, and the fuel pump sounds like its about to blow out of the fuel tank. then when it stops overcharging everything goes back to normal including the water temp.

i priced an alternator at the dealership today, $260, with $20 exchange does this sound like the right price?
...
is there any place i can find a mitsu alternator cheaper?

I certainly don't like what I'm reading. I would go over all the grounds even if it means removing and wire brushing them and where they connect. It sounds like a ground path is going through the meters and at least the fuel pump because the others are offering too much resistance. If you have any doubts add another from the body to the engine and battery.

As an aside have you noticed your gas pedal is getting sticky?? When you loose a major ground the next path is through your throttle / gas pedal cables which then get so hot they will melt the plastic on the outside cable sheath. When you put your hand on them and they are hotter than the engine compartment something is putrid in Peru.

Do check your big fuses for I believe at least 1 of them is on a gound circuit.

For sure you need to know what that spike voltage is using a volt meter!! If you see it's over 16 volts then you probably have an alternator problem.

You should ask _Buck_ about the unit he found for $150 which puts out plenty of amps, (120) for the stock unit is only 70-80 amp max so you don't have a lot to spare when everything is on. My concern about the 120 amp unit is the belt size may need more frequent adjustments for when you compare the pulley width on most of these they have a couple more extra grooves.

Buck, let us know if you decide to spring for the bigger unit because these guys running the big radio amplifiers are crying about the low amps of the stock unit. I would like to know what it was fitted to so I can keep my eyes open for my son's car.

Cheers,
GTM
 
car ran perfect a week ago, never had any problems with it. i bought it with 215k on it and it now has 254k on it. gas pedal is not sticky. so far only had to replace the ecu and all the belts, water pump, and front oil seals. i did the alternator just so it wouldnt leave me stranded later on down the road, but i should have never messed with it. "if it aint broke dont fix it".

i dont have any bad grounds or connections, car has run like a champ since the get go. the alternator is just CRAP, never had this problem till i replaced it. it just spikes from time to time, when ever it feels like it, after 45 mins of driving it doesnt do it any more until i come down to idle after a long trip. the surges dont last any longer than 10-15 seconds.

im getting my money back and getting a mitsu alternator. id take my old one back but they already sent it off.
 
Originally posted by t90tsi

...
i should have never messed with it. "if it aint broke dont fix it".
...
alternator is just CRAP, never had this problem till i replaced it. it just spikes from time to time, when ever it feels like it,
...
im getting my money back and getting a mitsu alternator. id take my old one back but they already sent it off.

This is a prime example of that old addage. The fewer things you mess with that have established they are happy keep your cottin pickin hands OFF!!!

If the guy is going to give you your money back you need an Alt to go in there first. Don't forget the core or core charge for you will need something to give to someone.

You should invest in a good test light, an inductive ammeter, and a cheap digital multi-meter... $5-$9. These are the 3 most important electrical tools you can own.

Good luck on this operation.

Cheers,
GTM
 
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