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WHERES MY BOOST? turbo replacement

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Lordpaxin

20+ Year Contributor
1,890
15
Apr 21, 2003
Jackson County, West Virginia
ok, my other turbo, the turbine got busted, so i swapped in another turbo.
and now,

there is like no boost.
well, it jumps from vac to 0 psi ultra fast, but when it starts buildint boost, it takes FOREVER, and only gets to 6 psi.
 
actually, my car didnt review your posts, before ####ing up.
not everyones car acts the same.


actuator. it pushes out at 7 psi, when hook directly. its the actuator from the previous turbo. (known good)

also, my blow off, doesnt sound the same. it is a lot quieter and slower, and its muffled and low in volume. before it was fast and louder

i also learned that when i was boost testing, my dad cranked it up to 45 psi when i went to the bathroom.

what parts could 45psi of air bust? or #### up.

i am thinking my wastegate actuator may have been weakened, or the bov may be popped
the exhaust side of turbo used to Glow after next to no activity it wont atall now. which makes me think the wastegate is open or mostly open all the time, is it possible that the 45psi damaged the actuator inside, and boost pressures could push the arm open slightly under acceleration?
 
pix of the turbine that died
 

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Originally posted by Lordpaxin
pix of the turbine that died

What if anything went through the engine to bend and break vanes??

I think you are on to something with the 45 psi. The bellows are made from brass and could have distorted. Can't you pull the actuating rod off and see if the flapper valve will close any more??

You might have to loosen the 2 mounting nuts to get the rod back on. Since this turbo is used on several cars, Volvo and Saab see if the waste gate actuators are the same.

Cheers,
GTM
 
ok,
i put another actuator on the turbo. and its pretty much the same.

to solve this, i have to find out someting

why is the turbo NOT getting cherry red anymore. the previous one, would get cherry right there at the manifold. this one doesnt.

theory:

boost leak, less air entering intake, computer shoots less gas, less exhaust. less heat. no cherry?

i mean, the flapper is down all the way. so im lost.

and i dont know what hit it, it was all sealed. but whatever it was, was black, i cleaned out intercooler and black shit was in it, all chopped up.

plastic from the MAF?

also, when i am idle, and tap the gas real fast, it will actually drop a little bit then jump back up.
 
well, another thing, there is hesitation,

and climbing a hill today, i put my foot in a certain position on teh gas, and didnt move it., the boot his 3 psi, dropped to -5, then climbed to 6 psi, then down to 0. all by itself.

air leak i am sure.
 
Originally posted by Lordpaxin
well, another thing, there is hesitation,

and climbing a hill today, i put my foot in a certain position on teh gas, and didnt move it., the boot his 3 psi, dropped to -5, then climbed to 6 psi, then down to 0. all by itself.
air leak i am sure.

Er, um, EGR???????????????

I believe it was Enigma_Man who suggested making a leak detector, have you followed up on this??????

Do you know if the turbo is spinning up freely, if the shaft is bent, bushings too tight that too could cause a loss of power. You showed us a pict of the turbine, what happened to that turbo??

Fuel filter? Fuel pump? Pressure reg? ECU?

Cheers,
GTM
 
car was fine.
someting black hit the turbo, blew it all to shit.

replaced turbo.
car has No egr.
turbo is new, has less than 2k on it.
wastegate is fine, blades have no play, not too tight.
i would guess the turbo is fine.

now, black debris from the foreign object and parts of the turbine, were cleaned from the intercooler, but after 40 psi of air through the intercooler, and water and gas, and shit, i can still hear shit in the IC clinking around when i shakje it, could particles inside the intercooler tracks block air enough to do that?

i check bov, and everything for leaks.
 
Originally posted by Lordpaxin
car was fine.
someting black hit the turbo, blew it all to shit.

replaced turbo.
car has No egr.
turbo is new, has less than 2k on it.
wastegate is fine, blades have no play, not too tight.
i would guess the turbo is fine.
.................
OK on all of that
.................

now, black debris from the foreign object and parts of the turbine, were cleaned from the intercooler, but after 40 psi of air through the intercooler, and water and gas, and shit, i can still hear shit in the IC clinking around when i shakje it, could particles inside the intercooler tracks block air enough to do that?
i check bov, and everything for leaks.

Not sure it's relevant but where did the 40 psi come from? Was it a sustained 40 lbs that the whole system saw or just from a blow gun that was set at 40psi?

Can you get the same pressure to back flush the intercooler? I was going to suggest a large shop vac to help reverse suction. Another alternative might be to back flush with water while shaking the daylights out of it.

Did the throttle plate see 40psi while closed? I'm grasping at straws here. If any chunks of plastic made it past the the throttle plate they could have lodged under a valve and bent it slightly. You really need to get any of those metal and plastic pieces out of the intercooler so they don't work their way into the engine.

Can't we get some more help in here for I'm running out of ideas unless someone provokes me ol 'ead.

Cheers,
GTM
 
it was regulated 40 psi.
air compressor.

i guess i could remove the valve cover and look at the valves? look for bad one?

im going to order a replacement sidemount because im thinking the intercooler is blocked.

the material that hit the turbo makes me think its hard rubber, like a hose, but my pipe is metal, mabye out of the maf?

could this chewed up hose material break anything.
also, parts of the turbine fins are in the debris i recovered.

but the exhaust side of my turbo, wont glow, even if i run it 6 psi for 20 minutes,

before just comming home with 2 psi occasionally, it would glow.

could a clogged IC do that?
 
Originally posted by Lordpaxin
it was regulated 40 psi.
air compressor.

i guess i could remove the valve cover and look at the valves? look for bad one?

im going to order a replacement sidemount because im thinking the intercooler is blocked.

the material that hit the turbo makes me think its hard rubber, like a hose, but my pipe is metal, mabye out of the maf?

could this chewed up hose material break anything.
also, parts of the turbine fins are in the debris i recovered.

but the exhaust side of my turbo, wont glow, even if i run it 6 psi for 20 minutes,

before just comming home with 2 psi occasionally, it would glow.

could a clogged IC do that?

A compression check would be in order before pulling the valve cover. Valve height might be a give away for the lash adjuster will try to compensate thus not have freeplay. Of course you would have a bit of a lumpy tick over as the Brits would say. (rough idle)

Did anyone visciously attack the plastic around the mfi to make it breathe better? Anyone have access to the car that doesn't like you...

I've seen flow numbers on either the intake or turbo (????) that were around 275(??) cubic feet per min. Getting a 50 gallon garbabe bag and see how long it takes to fill with the vacuum cleaner, then force it through the intercooler and calculate the time difference. A good shop vac will move more air than your engine.

More than likely the plastic is ABS which will melt and burn below 500 degrees. Bake it in the oven and melt that stuff so it puddles at one end. Get a sample and put on a foil pie plate and stuff it in the oven to see when it melts.

Check the cam timing when you do the compression chk.

Did you mention mashing on the gas and engine was slow to respond? A better test is to take to 1500 rpm and then mash the gas as hard and fast and off just as fast. You should see pretty close to 3,000 rpm, or something is wrong.

Listen, you could bypass the stupid intercooler with a piece of PVC pipe and bicycle innertube for hose connections. The car should run fine for the above test if it's not a hot day. Don't run out an buy a new intercooler until you know that's the problem. The fact the manifold isn't glowing cherry red is telling you something ... just got to figure out what.

Cheers,
GTM
 
Hey,
rpm climbs and falls normal while driving until you enter the boost range.

a sharp hit to the gas is fine. in neutral, in gear, the carr seems to lag for a split second then takes off. but boost climbs very slow, and only hits 6.

to me, if feels like the sudden blast of air is leaking off someplace when you mash it in gear. then air flow returns. mabye, a clogged Ic. mash the gas, and air pressure is higher than what can flow through. ecu expects more air that it has, and does someting, but what.

if a loss of air pressure is occuring, the ecu would Cut fuel to compensate, which might explain loss of the cherry on exhaust.
 
Originally posted by Lordpaxin
Hey,
rpm climbs and falls normal while driving until you enter the boost range.

a sharp hit to the gas is fine. in neutral, in gear, the carr seems to lag for a split second then takes off. but boost climbs very slow, and only hits 6.

to me, if feels like the sudden blast of air is leaking off someplace when you mash it in gear. then air flow returns. mabye, a clogged Ic. mash the gas, and air pressure is higher than what can flow through. ecu expects more air that it has, and does someting, but what.

if a loss of air pressure is occuring, the ecu would Cut fuel to compensate, which might explain loss of the cherry on exhaust.

Still scratching and picking the splinters out.

You have a transmission shift position switch which in 1st & 2nd(?) controls emissions, timing/fuel and corrected with speedo sensor.

Did the new turbo ever work properly??

Maybe you should pitch a fit with them and see what they have to say about all this. If you have disconnected the waste gate and made sure it couldn't open any change??

I'm also trying to figure out where your dad introduced the 45psi and how much of the system saw this much pressure and for how long. I can't see the turbo seals having compressed and grabbing the shaft. Besides the vacuum/pressure diaphrams you have a couple of selonoid valves that are conditional.

You have played with the intercooler enough and it would take a whole lot of plastic to clog it up especially at low rpms.

As I said before a shop vac set on exhaust to back flush the Ic.

At this point do the compression check and check the cam timing.

Cheers,
GTM
 
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