The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

replaced timing belt, lined everything up to TDC and there is still a ticking!!!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

LsrRStyle

20+ Year Contributor
54
0
Jan 1, 2003
East Lansing, Michigan
I just replaced the timing belt on my friends car and when I was putting the new one on i made sure the cams and crank all stayed at TDC even when the auto tensioner tightened up, the oil pump was a little bit off so I expected some vibration, but there is a ticking sound and its kinda loud. it kinda sounded like the valves were hitting but everything was lined up.....any suggestions??
 
dunno of its right, but i was told this once.


"most people who set timing, screw up, because the TDC is not as the eye would see, you see, since the engine is tilted a few degrees inside the engine bay. it doesnt set level, "

dunno if it means anything.
 
LOL that thing about not being able to see is bullshit...no hard feelings though...im sorry thats not tru...but

when valves hit its like a slapping sound not a tick

like when u clap ur hands...or somethin like that
ur hearing lifter tick which is common in 100% of the 1g's
 
it is definatly a ticking sound, and it gets faster as the engine revs up, which would make sense. so if i take it to a dealer they'll put the new ones in at no cost, i hope. but there is a definate difference between the ticking and clapping sounds, just want to make sure its not the valves ya know. thanks again.
 
TDC is TDC. Whether it's right side up, upside down, tilted 90 degrees or 15 degrees. Use the little markings on the block and be done with it. As long as the sprockets stay in the same position as the old timing belt had them you'll be fine.
 
Originally posted by 91TalonTSiCT
TDC is TDC. Whether it's right side up, upside down, tilted 90 degrees or 15 degrees. Use the little markings on the block and be done with it. As long as the sprockets stay in the same position as the old timing belt had them you'll be fine.

kinda off the subject, but i see you have the RnR exhaust, thats what i'm lookin to get just wonderin how it sounds and whatnot
 
Originally posted by LsrRStyle
ok now the car doesnt have much oil pressure at all, and i cant figure out why...

make sure the wire isn't loose that is connected to the oil pressure sending unit (not sure waht its called?). it is behind the left front tire and it comes loose a lot on my car, jsut enough to produce a low oil pressure level but not no oil pressure. sorry if this is confusing, im hammered.
 
If it wasn't ticking before, chances are it's not in time. Cars will run being a few teeth off. The exhaust will have sputters and spurts if you stand next to it. My friends car was a few teeth off, and it made noise from the head. It DOES sound like lifter noise. There is a maticulous way of putting those timing belts back on. What I do, and have worked for years, with no problems, is get the bottom on, and have it perfectly lined up. Have a friend hold in place at the bottom. Make sure the cams have both dowel pins pointing 12 o'clock. Also have your tensionor pulley backed off. Go ahead and put the belt between the pulleys in the middle, then pull all the slack on the right side out (make sure your hands are clean) using a 17mm wrench, bring the right cam down, to where the cut in the middle meets the horizon of the top of the head, (where it meets the valve cover). Put the belt on that side. Here's the tricky part, while holding that with one hand, bring the other gear down, but pass the mark by a tooth. Put the belt on. It should stay there. Then advance your tensionor pulley all the way over to the right, and tighten it. When you release the tensionor, it snaps into perfect place. I have done this without flaw, and even had ASE certified mechanics that have worked for the mistubishi dealership parts department for over 15 years here, say that the car was in PERFECT time. I learned this from a very smart tuner. Like I said, my friends car was a few teeth off for a few months. I recently fixed it for him, and the car runs perfectly smooth. Try doing this.
 
If you car leaks oil real bad, it won't get good oil pressure. See if your oilpan gasket or valve cover gasket, or cam seals are out. I didn't look to see if it was a turbo, but you also might want to check for leakage around turbo oil lines.
 
ok if ur timing jumps a few teeth.....1. yes it will run
2. ur gonna bend a valve....the car is not made to run any other way but the way it has on the markings...

why do u think they make all the marking just for one tooth...and not a cross 3...so u have options LOL....its one tooth for the markings....one tooth and ur off....ull have problems
 
it was the oil pressure sending unit, the wire hooked up to it was loose just pushed it back on and i had oil pressure, and yes it is a turbo. but i still think the lifters are bad cause there still ticking. u guys have ne suggestions on how to keep the dipstick in place cause i was driving it and when i shifted at like 4 grand lots of white smoke came out the drivers side and freaked me out but it was the dipstick, gotta keep that in.
 
Glue the dipstick in! JK. Theres actually a fix on vfaq.com im pretty sure. you just take a little piece of hose or something and put it on the tude and then stick the dipstick down in a it should hold. the oil pressure sender and the dipstick are two quite popular, irritating things that happen on a dsm.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top