Clutch won't bleed!

[NEADmike]

Ok here's the scenario, installed an ACT Clutch, turned on the car, car would not go into gear when the car is on, turned the car off, car will go into gear. Started the car with the clutch pushed all the way in and car jerked forward. Car will not grind the gear if I try to force it in when the car is running. I tried bleeding the clutch and the clutch fluid ran out before I noticed it. When I did, I filled it back up. Clutch pedal went limp. I adjusted the clutch pedal as far out as it could safely go. Got a MityVac and attempted to bleed the clutch with it. For a while nothing but air came out. Then fluid began to come with the air. I've gone through about 3/4 of a small bottle of brake fluid and been bleeding the clutch for over 2 hours. Is it just me or should bleeding the clutch not take nearly this long? So I checked for leaks under the master cylinder itself (In the engine bay) and at the pedal on the inside of the car through the firewall and it is all dry, no leaks. The slave cylinder is not leaking either. WTF?! What is going on? I am pretty sure that the clutch is not going into gear when it is on because the clutch needs to be bled, but the clutch won't bleed! It keeps on pulling out air. Maybe there is more air in the lines and maybe I should keep bleeding it? I doubt it though. So my question is, what is wrong here? Is there a definite way to tell if it's the slave cylinder, master cylinder or both before I go out and spend $200+ on them? They only have about 40,000 miles on em and seem fine to me, but who knows? Someone please shed some light on this situation! Thanks!

 

[NEADmike]

Ok just tried to bleed the clutch the old school one person way and push in the slave cylinder valve then open the bleeder valve, close the bleeder valve, release the slave cylinder, then press back on the slave cylinder and re-open the valve, etc, etc. Got back in the car, tried to push down on the pedal and the pedal is limp again! WTF?! What's going on? The only way I can get pressure is if I use the Mityvac to pull the liquid through. Hmmm...

 

[turboholic]

-What kind of car is this?

 

[NEADmike]

This is a 1997 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.8 LS, pics and info on the car can be found at http://evo_v.onlineshowoff.com

...

I swear to god it has DSM genes though (Isn't always a good thing)

 

[turboholic]

-I found the Mityvac hard to use because the hose keep coming off, I would step on the clutch pedal, then jam it down with a piece of wood, go loosen the bleed valve, close bleed valve, repeat this step until no air come out. I 'm not familiar with the 97 Mirage, does it have a aluminum shift fork, how's the condition of the pivot point on the shift fork and the fulcrum?

 

[NEADmike]

Originally posted by turboholic
-I found the Mityvac hard to use because the hose keep coming off, I would step on the clutch pedal, then jam it down with a piece of wood, go loosen the bleed valve, close bleed valve, repeat this step until no air come out. I 'm not familiar with the 97 Mirage, does it have a aluminum shift fork, how's the condition of the pivot point on the shift fork and the fulcrum?

Hose stays on fine with mine. Hmm... Am I suppose to have the clutch pedal pushed down to the floor before I open the bleeder valve? Cuz I have just been pumping up the Mityvac with the valve closed then opened the valve and sucked the fluid through that way. Do I need to have someone pressing down on the clutch and holding it there while I do this or something? And the shift fork is fine, the car has about 50,000 miles on it.

 

[turboholic]

-It take me about 5 minutes with the way I discribe above(by myself), the pedal stay down before you open the bleed valve, this way the line is under more pressure.

 

[NEADmike]

Originally posted by turboholic
-It take me about 5 minutes with the way I discribe above(by myself), the pedal stay down before you open the bleed valve, this way the line is under more pressure.

Ok, I think I'm gonna try and do that method a little later only with the Mityvac. Pump up the Mityvac with the bleeder valve closed, then have a friend push down the clutch pedal and hold it, then open the bleeder valve, then close the valve, have my friend release the pedal, then push back on the pedal, pump up the Mityvac again, open the valve again, etc. so that way there is pressure from the pedal being down and the Mityvac sucking the fluid to bleed the line. If that doesn't work... so help me god...

 

[turboholic]

Originally posted by NEADmike


Ok, I think I'm gonna try and do that method a little later only with the Mityvac. Pump up the Mityvac with the bleeder valve closed, then have a friend push down the clutch pedal and hold it, then open the bleeder valve, then close the valve, have my friend release the pedal, then push back on the pedal, pump up the Mityvac again, open the valve again, etc. so that way there is pressure from the pedal being down and the Mityvac sucking the fluid to bleed the line. If that doesn't work... so help me god...

-You don't need the Mityvac if pedal is press down because fluid will shoot out as soon as you open the bleed valve, just make sure the bleed valve is close before letting go the pedal or you'll just suck air back into the line.

 

[ivanr4g63]

Did your bleeding problem ever got to an end?
Ok as far as I know, once the fluid line gets completely empty you need to do alot of darn bleeding before reaching a strong fluid pressure, you may think that after 30 minutes of non-stop bleeding the pressure is there, sometimes it isn't, I have gone thru 3 or 4 bottles of fluid before reaching good pressure, and not only on DSM but on many other cars too, you see inside the master cylinder and the line you probably don't have any more air, but when you keep bleeding slowly you keep building more pressure, as a result your pedal will get stiffer and you'll shift properly.

 

[Defiant]

Originally posted by NEADmike
I adjusted the clutch pedal as far out as it could safely go.

Put the pedal back where it's supposed to be, and try again.