[RESOLVED] Timing Belt Issue

[GsXdSmKingGsX]

Ok so the guy replacing my timing belt didnt make any ticks to remember to make marks to line it up with so what should i do?? Is there anyway to re-align it or something?

 

[cyclonekid77]

There are marks on the cam gears, crank pulley, and the oil pump pulley that you will have to line back up if I understand you question correctly.

Timing Belt VFAQ

 

[liquidz28]

ill do it for you over the internet, step by step...make sure you have 2 small allen wrenches
about as big as a 15-16gauge wire (important)
0=take out all spark plugs 13/16th deep socket w/ rubber sparkplug insert (not something you absalutely need to do, but makes life easier)

1=remove strut tower brace (long flat bar that connects front d/s strut to front p/s strut

2=remove upper timing cover (10mm socket keep this around, youll be using it tons)

3= loosen driver side front wheel lugs, jack car up on d/s and place securely on jackstands. remove wheel, put a jack under the motor after car is jacked up, place a piece of wood as long as the oil pan under the oil pan and start jacking until the wood makes contact with the pan, and then pump/turn 1 more time.

4=remove motor mount (just below front timing cover, make sure you have a beefy socket 17mm i think,
extension and use the 1/2 drive ratchet or breaker bar or you'll be buying new tools) this will take some jiggleing to get the damd mount out, they sit in there tight, what i did was screwed some of the 10mm bolts i had layn around from some other dsm project into the holes threaded in the mount, dont screw them all the way in and you can use the claw portion of a hammer to pull the mount loose.

5=loosen water pump pully bolts (not all the way out just break them free)12mm if i remember correctly

6=remove all belts. p/s belt is easy, theres a nut just behind the pulley on the top of it and directly on the other end is another, just loosen them and it will move enough for you to grab the belt. alternater is a little tighter space, get up underneath the rig and loosen bolts from under there, these bolts will be closest to the radiator. 1/2 wrench if i remember correctly. there is also a shaft bolt in the rear of the alternator with a nut on one side and a squarelock on the other(closest to the block) you will need a long extension to go past the filter and other misc crap under there, loosen that and pull the belt off.

7=remove water pump pulley, you may have to manipulate the position of the motor with the jack, sometimes theres not enough space to get that damnd pully out. note the pully is 2 pullys and will go on backwards/inside out so remember the way they face when removing (its really self explanitory you'd have to be a dumdum to put them back on wrong) and remove middle timing cover (2-10mm bolts on either side) and pull it straight up and out.

8=heres the tricky part. get a standard size screwdriver and jam it into the flywheel teeth
(after you remove your inspection cover on the trans, if so equiped)

9=remove crank pully by removing all the bolts in the diamiter of the pully 4 of them lil bastards if i remember correctly. then with a 1/2 drive breaker bar stick the actual bars driver into the square hole in the crank, turn COUNTER CLOCKWISE slowly and make sure the motor is not turning also, you ABSALUTELY do not want to spin the engine backwards, dont ask me why but the manual said mitsubishi would murder your family if you do so. so dont. i think the max allowance for reverse spin is about 1/4 turn, so pay close attention. you may need to manipulate the position of the motor again with the jack to get the pully off it is on there good, but no you dont need a puller, just rock it with a rubber mallet or wiggle it with your hands, she'll pop off.

10=locate all lower timing cover bolts count how many there is. then get a cardboard box and poke holes in it with a larger phillips screwdriver should look something like this.

_______
I * * I
I * * I <--------
I * * I
I * * I
_______

hopefully that makes sense basically, every bolt is differant and needs to go back to its original home, the box will simplafy. just mark on the cover itself wich will be position number 1 and remove them in a direction you can remember, mark the box with bolt position number 1 and fill the box as you take them out of the cover. easier done than said.

11= now your looking at the guts, you know that big ass nut that goes in the center of the crankshaft pulley? put that back in for future adjustments, and turn it clockwise until tight.
at this point you need a 1/2 inch ratchet rotate the crankshaft untill all makrs on the sprokets are in line (Top dead center) when you think you have accomplished this feat stand up and check the sprockets on the cams make sure they are dowel pins at the 12 o'clock position and the unpainted timing slits are straight accross from one another like this

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now loosen the tensioner pully on the front side of the motor and remove the automatic tensioner (2 bolts holding it on marked in the pic)

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the sprockets on the cams may or may not move out of place dont worry this is a correctable offense

12=remove belt. if you are doing your 60k maint you have to do the balance belt also, that one is simple, just loosen the front shaft tensioner and remove the belt, when you do remove the belt make sure you keep the front balance shaft in phase by simply watching it while you stick the new belt in. ok now the new balance shaft belt is on just press upwards and out or think of it as a compass and push the tensioner as far northeast as you possably can and tighten the bolt in the center of it, not too tight just tight enough where the pully cannot retreat back south west. reinstall timing belt, on this step you will have to get 2 wrenches, i used 2 cressent wrenches and put them on the bolts on the cam sprockets, loosely set the timing belt over the 2 sprockets first, take the 2 wrenches on the bolts and turn them in tword eachother till the timing marks are alligned, then lace the belt around the 2, get 2 gator clips or something to hold the belt to the sprockets so they dont pop apart, i used 2 pair of small vice grips, but anything will work, just make sure you dont use something too tight to damage the belt, the belt will hold the sprockets no prob, you just need downward force to keep the belt from slipping out of the grooves, now lace the belt through down with the smooth side against the rear tensioner, then around the oil pump sprocket, make sure the oil sprocket is in phase first, simply by pointing the sprocket timing mark north (back to the compass talk) and let it go, if it turns north east when you let it go spin it 1 full turn and try again, you want it to fall north west when you let it go. when it does that, lace the belt around it, make sure your as tight as it can get when you put it around the sprocket. now around the crank sprocket and up to the tensioner, smooth side against the tensioner, this is the "loose side" of the belt so if theres slack, no worries, just as long as the other side is tight. now with your finger or a long screwdriver force the tensioner north east and tighten the bolt, again, not too tight just like 10ft lbs of torque or as tight as you can get it with your fingers. this will hold everything togeather.

13= recompress the piston inside the auto tensioner, this is easily accomplished with a vise, but if your like me and dont have one, i just used the crossmember under the can and another jack, just put the tensioner piston side up with the piston on one of the bolts for the crossmember and jack it up, slowly, EVER so slowly too fast is a bad thing, it takes about 3-5 mins for the piston to go in. have handy a small allenwrench for the little hole in the piston and piston housing, as the piston goes down you will have to push the allen wrench through the hole and through the piston (make sure you slide that bad boy into the FRONT side, as you will have to be able to pull it back out when the auto tensioner is reinstalled) once that piston is in position and you have it locked with the allen wrench drop the jack back down.
now reinstall the auto tensioner, before removing the allen, make sure ALL of them timing marks are in the correct position, if so pull the pin like its a granade. give it about 3 mins before doing the next step.

14= rotate the engine CLOCKWISE 6 full rev's (360 degrees) and check marks should land on dowels at 6o'clock if i remember correctly and 7th will be dowels at 12 and all marks alligned.
if i am wrong everything lines up on the 6th rev. keep an eye on the cam marks, make sure they are perfect, if not make them perfect, this is not something you want to be off by even 1 tooth.

15= check to make sure the belt is still tight and everyhing is still lined up with the respective marks. remove the bolt in the center of the crank by turning it counter clockwise, make sure your screwdriver is still in a good groove in the flywheel.

16= reinstall crank pully then REMOVE THE SCREWDRIVER (not doing this will force your wallet to replace the flywheel and possably your bellhousing.)

17= reinstall lower timing cover

18= reinstall middle timing cover and water pump pulley in that order.

19= reinstall belts

20= tighten all belts and adjusting bolts on the p/s pump and alternator. double check tightness on waterpump pully nuts.

21= the hardest part of this whole operation..getting that motor mount back in and alligned.
it will take some manipulation of the mount and the motor so be patient. once you get the 2 nuts on all you have left is the one that connects it through the body, fortunately the bolt goes all the way through so you can get under the wheel well and look in there to see if your bolt is in position, if it looks like it is but wont go in, hit it with a hammer, softly it will make a slapping noise when its in, use a shallow socket so you can put some forward force while turning the bolt.

22= put upper timing cover back on

23= reinstall strut tower brace

24= put wheel back on, remove jack from under motor.

25= get car back on the ground

26= start car, if there is any strange noises, vibrations shut it off immediately and investigate. if not wich will be the case rev it a couple times make sure it is not makeing any strange vibrations or anyting.

27= drive the car to the store for some beer. because this is a job you cannot do drunk, you get drunk afterwards.

all of this should take you about 4 hours. easy stuff!

anyone have any objections?
let me know since this is all from my brain. no manual.

 

[snowborder714]

Um, sounds exactly like the article linked to in post #2


I don't understand the reasoning behind jamming a screwdriver in your flywheel teeth - that's totally unnecessary.

Also, if you put the engine at TDC before removing the timing components, it makes the job a lot easier as you shouldn't have to rotate anything more than a few degrees.

If you plan on doing a timing belt job (especially more than one time), pick up this tool set.
Jay Racing Timing Belt Tools Kit [TBTS] - $50.00 : Jay Racing

Set the engine at TDC and put the white piece between the cam gears. This is much easier than trying to wrench on both of them to get the dowels at 12 o'clock. They won't naturally sit like this when you loosen the tension.

And the tool for the tensioner pulley is MUCH EASIER to use than pliers or what not. Just make sure the tensioner pulley bolt is a bit looser than finger tight. I've broken a few of the pins on the tool because of having that bolt too tight. When doing this part, find the point where the pin just starts to become loose enough to pull out by hand. Tighten the bolt down then, as the pin will get a bit looser over a few minutes. Let it sit a few minutes and check again. If it's still loose enough to pull in and out without any problems, pull it and do your 6 full rotations.

im still a noob, dont think i can post it there

I believe anyone can post in the wiki. I'm not sure this would make it as a tech article, considering the VFAQ already has it. Plus, it would need a lot of cleaning up and to have proper spelling, punctuation, capitalization, etc.

 

[this_tsi_8urV8]

I'm still having problems installing the damn t-belt. And I've done it about 3 times.
Align all the marks, reset the auto tensioner and install, place belt around all pulleys, and push down the tensioner pulley, but with what if you do not have a 'special tool'?
Do I push down the actual pulley? Push the pivot/tensioner arm?
Then tighten the center bolt on the tensioner pulley, and release pin from auto tensioner...
that's where I restart, bc it does Not stay put. Everything pretty much moves.
I have SMIM that doesn't let me put in the tensioner tool, plus I don't have that tool.
Ideas? Suggestions?
Thanks.

 

[snowborder714]

I'm still having problems installing the damn t-belt. And I've done it about 3 times.
Align all the marks, reset the auto tensioner and install, place belt around all pulleys, and push down the tensioner pulley, but with what if you do not have a 'special tool'?
Do I push down the actual pulley? Push the pivot/tensioner arm?
Then tighten the center bolt on the tensioner pulley, and release pin from auto tensioner...
that's where I restart, bc it does Not stay put. Everything pretty much moves.
I have SMIM that doesn't let me put in the tensioner tool, plus I don't have that tool.
Ideas? Suggestions?
Thanks.

For a 2g, you want to rotate the tensioner pulley counterclockwise until the two holes are underneath the center bolt, and then tighten the bolt down. You can use a pair of 90* pliers or snap ring pliers if you don't have the tool. Then check to make sure you can pull out and put back in the tensioner pin easily. If it offers any resistance, redo the pulley. Then let it sit for a few minutes (I usually do 3-5 minutes) and recheck the pin. If you can't pull it out and put it back in, redo the pulley again. If not, pull the pin and rotate the engine clockwise 6 revolutions.

 

[92AWDHX40]

The first thing i did was my timing belt because i was home from college with no money, it ran for a while then it went down not sure, but i sold it. Ive done it once with a buddy since then, last month just had my mechanic do the work with shafts out. Didnt want to risk it.

 

[GsXdSmKingGsX]

I ended up just doing it myself and printing off these instructions