Fuel pump problem

[talon4show]

I have an odd Fuel pump problem!

Specs:
2G AWD
6-bolt
Walboro 255
No rewire
DSMlink

The other night I went to crank the car with the swapped motor and to prime it we pulled the fuel fuse under the hood. When we were finished with that the fuse was put back into place and then it was time to start it. Got no fuel pressure (aeromotive FPR with gauge). When turning the key to the ON position I hear no fuel pump kicking on.

Now, if I go into DSMlink and toggle it on, it works fine. You hear the relay kicking on, the fuel pump turns on (hear the whine) and the car also will build some fuel pressure.

So, its maybe something to do with the ignition?

All of the fuses seemed fine (checked but it was a bit dark outside), the relay is working, and the whole system is fine or it wouldn't work with DSMlink.



Discuss.

 

[snowborder714]

Your fuel pump will not turn on until you start cranking it.

 

[droppinbottom]

If I remember correctly your pump does not actually turn on untill you go to crank the car.

 

[talon4show]

I was under the impression that it comes on as soon as the key hits ON to "prime" the system and have some pressure before you start the car? If not, still, when turning the car over it will not build any fuel pressure which is what lead me to assume its not coming on.

 

[snowborder714]

How do you know you have no fuel pressure? Do you have a gauge?

 

[talon4show]

That I do.

Got no fuel pressure (aeromotive FPR with gauge)

Is there maybe something I don't have right with DSMlink?

 

[droppinbottom]

I doubt dsmlink would be the cause of your problem.

So you have tried to start the car and it builds no fuel pressure? Have you tried taking off the return line after attempting to start the car to verify that you indeed have no fuel pressure?

 

[talon4show]

I doubt dsmlink would be the cause of your problem.

So you have tried to start the car and it builds no fuel pressure? Have you tried taking off the return line after attempting to start the car to verify that you indeed have no fuel pressure?

Yes, turned the car over without the fuse in and then after we were done with that the fuse was put back in so we could actually start the car and we had no fuel pressure.

I have not taken the line off the rail to check because we were toggling the pump on and off with DSMlink to see if it was even come on (which it did).

 

[snowborder714]

And if you turn the fuel pump on with DSMlink and leave it for a little while, your FPR gauge doesn't go up at all?

Since you didn't change any wiring, I'd do as droppinbottom said and pull one of the lines and see if you have fuel. Then you can figure out if your pump is working.

 

[talon4show]

And if you turn the fuel pump on with DSMlink and leave it for a little while, your FPR gauge doesn't go up at all?

That is the problem. When turned on with DSMlink, I DO GET FUEL PRESSURE. When I turn it off and just go to start the car, I get NO Fuel Pressure.

 

[talon4show]

AHH! Forgot to add a possible problem to the equation. I have installed a push button start. My car has that weird ignition problem where sometimes it will start right up or sometimes you have to bump the key 18 million times.

SO, the key you turn until it stops once for the ACC (radio and such), twice for the ON position and then turn it from there to start the car. Maybe since I am just turning the key to ON its not wanting to kick the fuel pump on? I had a buddy who wired in a push button and never had this problem so maybe its not that either?

 

[banishedmunk]

check your mpi relay under your radio if m not mistaken dsmlink bypasses the mpi and energzes the fuel pump relay under the dash near your left leg the mpi relay is energized by the gniton there are ways to test that relay to see if it is working

 

[droppinbottom]

AHH! Forgot to add a possible problem to the equation. I have installed a push button start. My car has that weird ignition problem where sometimes it will start right up or sometimes you have to bump the key 18 million times.

SO, the key you turn until it stops once for the ACC (radio and such), twice for the ON position and then turn it from there to start the car. Maybe since I am just turning the key to ON its not wanting to kick the fuel pump on? I had a buddy who wired in a push button and never had this problem so maybe its not that either?

I think you found your problem.

 

[Jeff99GS]

In my service manual wiring diagram it shows the fuel pump relay is wired into the START wire. Meaning the Fuel pump does not see 12 volts till the key is turned to the start position.

Most likely it's a problem with your Push button start system.

The 420a eclipse has a different setup. Its fuel pump comes ON with the Ignition in the ON position

 

[talon4show]

Ok, GOT IT FIGURED OUT TONIGHT! w00t.

The push button wasn't it. Many people have the same thing without this problem.

The relay under the dash kicks on with DSMlink because I heard it every time


Grabbed a test light and checked a few wires on the harness clipping onto the ECU with the key in the ON position. Touched down into #8 and it kicked on. The wire there is loose so I guess I just need to pull that apart and fix it.

 

[Jeff99GS]

That's great that you figured it out. I know that many have push button starters. It was the Wiring Job I was concernd about. I mean if you have to jiggle the button or key 18 million times like you said then something is NOT wired right or tight.

 

[talon4show]

The button worked great its the key thing that is messed up. I have read a lot of threads on here about how people can never figure out what the deal is. Sometimes you can hop in the car, turn the key, and the car starts right up. other times you turn it and it does nothing. You can sit there a bump it a couple times and it will start or sometimes it takes quite a few tries.

 

[Jeff99GS]

The button worked great its the key thing that is messed up. I have read a lot of threads on here about how people can never figure out what the deal is. Sometimes you can hop in the car, turn the key, and the car starts right up. other times you turn it and it does nothing. You can sit there a bump it a couple times and it will start or sometimes it takes quite a few tries.

That sounds like a bad ignition switch.

 

[talon4show]

You would think so. I don't know, I have just read a lot of threads on people replacing stuff and it still giving them problems. I guess you could say I took the cheap way out and just put a start button in

 

[talon4show]

Took a closer look at it last night... Seems as though the metal contact(s) inside the yellow harness clip is/are messed up. I suppose the best option now would be to find another harness and hack that off if it and solder the new clip in? We tried messing with the metal and somehow its just all out of wack and nothing would work.

Any words of wisdom? Anyone had a problem like this?

 

[Jeff99GS]

Sounds like the conector got hot from drawing too many amps on that circut. Each wire in the car is meant to handle a certain amout of amps depending on thier length and diameter. Usually 16-18 gauge wire is good for 10-15 amps at 20 feet
The connections are the weak spot of the circut.

So if you were drawing 35 amps on an 18 gauge wire you will heat that wire up to the point where it blackens and the connections/plugs will melt and or get deformed.

When you need to draw higher amps you will have to go straight to the battery or use a relay.

Make sure all of your fuses are the PROPER amperage in both fuse boxes.
You don't want to have a 30 where a 10 should be.

All you can do is try to find a harness somewhere and splice in a new connector.

 

[talon4show]

Yea the fuse is right. Might be what you are talking about. Its a 255 that is not re-wired. I know I know, I need to get to that. Working on locating a new clip and wires right now, doesn't seem like its going to be that easy to find.