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car is slow, many mods, wont build much boost or hold it.

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pj91gsx

15+ Year Contributor
2,717
9
Nov 25, 2007
Stuart, Virginia
I am now going to take over on my friends 1995 2g eclipse gst. It has a rebuilt Garrett T3 airesearch with a tubular manifold and a turbonetics Delta 2 wastegate. It has a Greddy fmic and we just put a 1g bov on in place of a leaking blitz. We have done many boost leak tests, but we cant come up with anything yet. every thing passes on the boost leak test. The timing and balance shaft belts are new and timing is dead on. I believe we do need to adjust the idle but we havent gotten to it yet because I need the diagnostic code reader to ground the 16th pin. It idles at 1100 and it seem to idle fine. I was checking the ignition timing at 1100 which i know it should be at 750 and the dot was moving around, I thought that was very strange, because I check a 1g eclipse and it was off but the dot stayed in one place. Im going to do a vacuum leak test and compression test to see if I can get any ideas of the problem. Let me know if you think you know what the problem is. The car is slow and it fells like it is skipping or hopping when driving it. like it is taching almost.
 
wow. Well I would start with the vacum lines to the wastegate or the bov. Usally that is the problem and the bov is staying open. If you aren't getting any boost then the bov is the first you should check. Next, make sure that you aren't lossing exhuast to the turbo or leaks. The wastegate might be open to If so, since your turbo can't spin fast enough to get high boost. So check those and let us know.
 
ok. I was thinking another boost leak test too, because the boost leaked out of the bov but it leaked out of the last bov too. so do I need to cap off the bov during a boost leak test? Now there is a 1g bov instead of a blitz. Also maybe the wastegate vacuum lines are hooked up wrong. It is a turbonetics delta 2.
 
A 1G BOV that is working properly shouldn't leak until about 17 or 18 pounds during a boost leak test. If yours leaks before that then there is something wrong with it.
 
If you wanna take a couple of hours, you can do the "Dodge Garage" mod on the 1g BOV. It's a mod you can "undo", but for a BLT, it will hold the BOV closed. Requires a chunk of brake line, a drill, some way of threading the SS brake line and a dab of JB-Weld.

Other than that, I agree that you should track down BOV, WG, and boost leak issues. Have you BLTed at the TB elbow? That'd remove the BOV from the equation so you could focus on other common leaks. Is the BOV vac line good and is it connected properly to the IM?

And you never mentioned how much it would boost.

There's a good image floating around for vaccuum diagram and emissions delete (forget what it's called, though...starts with a "v" I think). Someone else will remember and post it, though.

Might want to Google for the WG instructions so you can check the vac line routing.

Did you check plugs and gap? Did you read the plugs?
 
The plugs are ngk. idk anymore specific than that but I did try other plugs before. I will try to get the "code name" from them. We just know that during a boost leak test, it will get to 8 psi then leak out of the bov. My friend has already fixed many boost leaks so I guess maybe there are more. I would say it probably boosts about 5 lbs but most of the time when my friend stepped on it did not make anything according to the gauge. btw the guage is on the fuel pressure solenoid to the manifold line. so it right. I think it maybe a vacuum issue. and I fell like the problem has gotten a little worse, as in it pushes less boost. The turbo is a garrett t3 with a .42 intake housing and .48 exhaust housing from a turbonetics, Idk if that matters or not. There is also a small exhuast leak on the weld for the o2 sensor. The check engine light has come on but is not on every time we start the motor. the o2 sensor is grey with carbon, so that is good.
 
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