Good Turbo For Road Raceing..

[outcastgsx]

Since I Am Going To Replace My 14b Anyways,i Have Been Thinking About Building The Car For Road Race/autocross. Which Turbo Do You Guys Recom End? Since Iam Just Starting I Am Not Looking For No Bb 50 Trim,i Want To Learn To Drive First. Thanks Edgar...

 

[SlickGSX]

Evo 3 16G will work just fine for ya, they can make near 400HP, bolts right in and spools just as quick as your 14B.

 

[asian312]

If you starting out, I would also recommend a 16G or even picking up a second hand 14B. The last thing you want during the 'learning' phase is power so keep the boost down (~10-14psi). Cars without power push the driver to drive the line correctly and enforce the importance on carrying momentum. In the beginning run groups, your car is 10-15% of the equation. It provides 4 wheels to get around the track, but ultimately it is the driver that will make the car quick or not. If you have a fairly stock car, I would suggest getting it up and reliable, meet all the safety requirements, and hit the track. If your gonna upgrade anything, slap on some new brake pads. Come visit the 'Road Course & Autocross' section of the forum...dont be shy.

 

[outcastgsx]

YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST,THANKS FOR THE INFO YOU GUYS ARE RIGHT,IAM GOING TO FOCUS ON RELIABILATY MODS,SAFETY,BRAKES AND OF COURSE TIRES. MY CAR IS A 94 GSX 5PEED. ITS BASICLY STOCK EXCEPT FOR A K,N FITER IT HAS ABOUT 110,000K BUT I HAD THE CAR SINCE IT HAD 54,000 ABOUT 2 YEARS AGO. I HAVE PUT ALOT OF HIGHWAY MILES ON IT DUE TOO WORK. TRUST ME I HAVE DONE ALL THE MAINT,MY SELF I WORK FOR BENTLEY OF BVHILLS SO THE CAR IS IN GOOD HANDS. BUT IAM GOING TO FINALY BUY A DD,AND I WANT TO REPRESENT OUR DSMS IN THE ROAD RACEING SEEN,WE ALL KNOW WHAT IT CAN DO IN THE 1/4 MILE.

 

[Talesin]

Do up the suspension first. Rear sway bar, rear strut tower bar, shocks, springs. Get better (wider) rims and more rubber for better traction. Replace the crappy half-rubber portion of your rear control arms with metal inserts and Heim joints. Don't remove your power steering (but DO mod the restrictor) if you plan to slalom. Lighten the car, relocate the battery, focus on getting the car into optimal stock shape for nimble handling.

After it's handling well, you can look at power. An Evo 3 16G (E3-16G) will keep the quick spool you want, flow TONS better than the stock 14b, and can make around 400hp with a good tune... more than enough for most road racing. If you really want to go optimal, stroke your engine out to 2.3L (as I was stupid and did not) the next time you get the engine rebuilt. You'll need to follow the tech upgrade paths behind the TECH/DIY link at the upper left of the forum for all the other stuff you'll need to make that kind of power though.

 

[asian312]

I would recommend brakes, tires, then suspension. Alot of times your tire choice will factor into your suspension decision, such as gaining some inside room by swapping to coilovers or if you need higher spring rates or height. One place to concentrate and not skimp on is safety. As it was told to me. Buy the best within budget, its like life insurance.

 

[DSMunknown]

Do up the suspension first. Rear sway bar, rear strut tower bar, shocks, springs. Get better (wider) rims and more rubber for better traction. Replace the crappy half-rubber portion of your rear control arms with metal inserts and Heim joints. Don't remove your power steering (but DO mod the restrictor) if you plan to slalom. Lighten the car, relocate the battery, focus on getting the car into optimal stock shape for nimble handling.

After it's handling well, you can look at power. An Evo 3 16G (E3-16G) will keep the quick spool you want, flow TONS better than the stock 14b, and can make around 400hp with a good tune... more than enough for most road racing. If you really want to go optimal, stroke your engine out to 2.3L (as I was stupid and did not) the next time you get the engine rebuilt. You'll need to follow the tech upgrade paths behind the TECH/DIY link at the upper left of the forum for all the other stuff you'll need to make that kind of power though.

^^ Good stuff John.

I would also like to add that getting yourself some upgraded engine motor mounts. You can go through a few links in this thread.

And don't forget to fully rewire your fuel pump. This is what Jim recommends here for those hardcore race cars.

 

[D_Eclipse9916]

16g produces a ton of heat, im actually swapping to a 20g and running lower boost to keep heat down, the power isnt what the problem is, its the heat the 16g produces.

 

[Talesin]

My 16G doesn't produce too much heat after I replaced the oil pan... used to have a 1G N/A oilpan with a hole drilled in it, and the turbo oil return held on with a pair of self-tapping screws (hooray for KarKing longblocks!).. would be glowing BRIGHT cherry red after a hard mostly-uphill technical run with a lot of boosting. To the point where you could see it glowing with a streetlight right there.

Swapped out for a proper turbo oilpan, restriction was gone, it barely glows at all now, even on new moon nights.


Motor mounts are a good call, for the life of the car. Coilovers on a 1G... not so much. There aren't too many good options (damn 2G aftermarket following) without blowing two or three grand. Tires will end up worn away... they'll help immensely, but it's a band-aid.
Went with a $250/tire set when I was first getting started, and since I didn't have the suspension setup to complement them, they were forced to compensate completely. That thousand bucks plus was gone in literally two months. Total e-ticket rubber, but if I'd taken the time to actually do up the suspension beforehand, they probably would have lasted twice as long.

Brakes are important, but it's also important to understand the limitations of the stock brakes before you start bumping them. When you change the suspension, you have to re-learn the characteristics of the car, which can take months. If you just do the rear sway bar, shocks and springs, rear control arms, you don't have to re-learn anywhere near as much down the line. Brakes you just go lighter... they're still subject to the traction provided by your tires ultimately, and how stable you keep the car during braking. Better ones are just less suceptible to fade, and have more potential to lock up the wheels during a panic moment or during an optimal braking situation. Best to work those out and know how the car is going to respond, before having to deal with that as well. Not to mention getting used to handling the car and being able to control it under extreme circumstances, such as traction loss due to debris, or unexpected obstacles (freaking deer!). So long as you have enough brake to lock the wheels and avoid fade, you have enough brakes. And the stockers are okay for that, for the most part, even with just upgraded rotors and maybe pads.. even moreso with the '94 GSX we're talking about, starting off with the dual piston 'big brake' calipers. A good set of Powerslots and some Metal Master pads should be more than enough to take care of that.

So yes, for immediate performance, tires and brakes would be a good call. For someone who intends to stay with the car for years, it's not what you want to start with.

 

[outcastgsx]

WOW THERE IS ALOT TO LEARN,WELL AT LEAST I ALREADY HAVE THE MOTOR MOUNTS,L-FLYWHEEL,CLUTCH SET UP.