WTF did I do now..... :(

[dsmoverboosted]

Well i was trying to fix a 4500rpm sputter by swapping cas to see if thats the problem. Like you know The throttle body needs to be unbolted and slid off to do this. Anyways I put it all together and now everytime I let off the gas to come to a stop or whatever (just letting the revs drop in neutral from 2000+ it will die or almost die on me. It does catch itself for a sec but then dies. Like i rev it up to 3500 and let it drop, it drops to 500(no isc) than jumps to 800 for a sec(normal) then dies(not normal).

Damn I got bad luck, the cas didn't even fix the original problem.

I did do the timing after to 5* and boost tested without any leaks. I did crush my 1g bov at the same time, I didn't use any vac to set it but I just crushed it a little but I dont see how that could do it.

My isc and fiav are blocked along with my egr but thats not new.

My throttle switch was hanging on by half the wires before I swapped the cas so after it started stalling on me I figured maybe that was the issue and clipped the end off and wrapped the wire on the sensor but that did nothing.

What could I have possibly ####ed up this time???????

Oh and I can keep it from dieing if i engine brake till 900rpm than push the clutch in. It just seems to happen from a high falling rev.

 

[nc90awd]

you have to unbolt the throttle body to change the cas? I have heard of cars idling funny after blocking off the fiav... it may be because of that

 

[dsmoverboosted]

naw I block the isc and fiav and egr a year ago. This started happening when I swapped cas. And yes I swapped them back after thinking it was the cas I put in that messed it up but it still stalls

Ya you gotta unblot the tb. There is a support bracket that attatches the cas stud to the tb bolts. The bracket needs to be removed to remove the cas.

 

[spinz4]

Only 2 bolts need to be removed from the throttle body to remove the cas. Have any boost leaks?

 

[nates6969]

Only 2 bolts need to be removed from the throttle body to remove the cas. Have any boost leaks?

Ya thats exactly what I was going to say. Only the 2 bolts holding the support bracket must be removed. I bet your car is sucking mad amounts of air through the seal between the TB and intake manifold. One time when I was installing an UICP, I had the TB off to clean things up and when I put it back I reused the gasket with RTV however I put the gasket on backwards and it leaked sooo bad...the gaskets look symmetric however if its an old gasket, groves wear into it causing an improper seal if installed differently


Definitily do a boost leak test, I bet this is your issue.

 

[dsmoverboosted]

I have done a boost test and its theres no leaks. And I guess its because of the 2g elbow but the 2 bolts dont slide off, they hit the elbow and the bracket doesent have enough room to slid off and clear the cas stud. But unfortunatly its not a boost leak. I took the tb off yesterday and checked everything out and it all looks ok. I put it back together and boost tested and its still stalling.

It doesent stall if I engine brake for say 5 seconds then let it drop even if i say accel to 5000, engine brake till 4000 and let it drop it wont stall but if I accel till say 2500 and just let it drop it stalls almost everytime.

 

[SleepingTsi94]

Check the biss screw see if thats sealing or set right.

 

[dsmoverboosted]

the o-ring does not leak and is 1 year old. Its set to 800rpm. It idles fine except for the occasional miss

 

[93_tsi_fwd]

Try putting back your old CAS. see if it returns back to normal with the sputter at 4k rpm

The sputtering problem at 4k rpm is your MAF-sensor. It is not functioning correctly.

 

[nates6969]

Only other thing I can think of is the CAS is 180 degs out of time. I'm not too sure if the car would really even run at all if this was the case though. I've never made the mistake, anybody ever mess this up? if so what were the symptoms?

 

[dsmoverboosted]

I have already put the old cas back on thinking the same as you. Also I did run my cas 180* out when I did my head rebuild and it would not start, I guess it sparks at btd so thats not the case since it runs normal up to 5000rpm (not 4000 like i sayed before its accually 5000) except for the stalling. Basically I can spool up my turbo for 500rpm (turbo spools at 4500)and it feels quick then at 5000 it lacks tons of power and sputters but I can take it to 7500 if I want it just takes a while to get there.

I do notice it bucks once i guess backfiring maybe? I mean when I accel then engine brake to avoid stalling it bucks for after a sec just once then it seems I can let the revs drop and it wont stall. If I let the revs drop before it bucks that one time it stalls. I hope that helps narrow things up