The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Boost leak test.. Dead end!!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Sublime_06

15+ Year Contributor
81
0
Oct 3, 2006
Winnipeg,
I can't get this damn test to work properly.. I've tried everything and can't get the gauge to go about 5 PSI!

I am using a homemade tester.. It is a piece of straight 2" tubing with a cap, and a male compressor fitting on the end. It blows alot of air.. I would just like to state that my tester is not the issue here.

I have blocked off the MBC fitting off the compressor.. I warmed up the car to 180*.. I have air coming out of the exhaust pipe.. I have put a socket and extension on the crank and turn the damn thing 360* in intervals off like 5* and I can' t stop the air from coming out of the exhaust..

I have no idea what to do about this.. I am seriously loosing it with this damn thing.


Any help is greatly appreciated..!!

Thanks,
Chris.
 
Try doing the boost leak test connecting to your intercooler piping right after the turbo. Air could be leaking from inside the turbo area (something about turbo seals)
 
Make sure the crank is lined up to TDC and then rotate it about 30 degrees. Either the intake or exhaust valves in every cylinder should be closed.

Also when you start, start from the throttle body elbow and work your way back to the turbo. It's easier to isolate leaks if you've got a bunch. This way you can tackle them one (or a few..) at a time.
 
When you say start at the throttle body elbow.. You mean pressurize from the elbow to the turbo? Or from the elbow to the Intake Manifold?

Thanks,
Chris.
 
I think he means start at the throttle body elbow. Make sure that isn't leaking, and once you figure out it isn't you can add one component of the turbo system after that to check that, that isn't leaking either.
 
Any confirm deny the above statement?..

What? It's the easiest thing to do man. Pull your uicp, put your tester on the throttle body elbow. Charge it up. Fix leaks.

Next add the uicp back on and charge from the inlet side of the smic. Fix leaks.

Then go to the turbo. Test, fix leaks. If then you're still pushing air, you might have an internal turbo issue. But MAKE SURE you take it one step at a time or you'll never get anything accomplished.

Whats so hard about THROTTLE BODY elbow. You do know what the TB is right?
 
I simply asked if it was throttle body back towards turbo.. or throttle body towards Intake manifold.. You do know how to read right?

I put it directly on the TB elbow and still have air pushing out of the exhaust.. I tried every single f'ing degree on the crank and still air coming out of the exhaust.. It will not for the life of it build boost..

I have tried for the FMIC, from differnet positions throughout the charge piping.. from the TB elbow.. I have rotated the crank through different positions 360* with the tester on all these different positions.. It wont build boost over 5 PSI on the gauge and there is always air escaping through the exhaust.. I dont know what to do next..
 
Yah I know I was just wondering which direction.. Never dont this shit before.. but I know what a TB elbow is.. c'mon.

Anyways.. every time.. air coming out of the exhuast.. Whats the deal?

Thanks,
Chris.
 
Have you done a compression test? Sounds like you've got leaking valves to me though. Did you line it up at TDC and rotate it a little bit like I said? I know you said you did it at every position, but just try it again like that.
 
Never done a compression test. How exactly do you line up at TDC?.. Do the timing marks line up at TDC?

Thanks,
Chris.
 
After reading further it says get the engine to .. 30* ATDC .. So how exactly do I get to that specific degree? Like how many teeth on the gears or whatever should I count to get the engine to that exact position?
 
My PCV valve is definatley leaking, but enough to not allow the boost gauge to get up to even 5 PSI?

What do you guys recommend here? I have read about ppl getting catch cans and stuff.. Would a new OEM mitsu PCV valve and an inline check valve work here?

Thanks,
Chris.
 
Could this be a leaking EGR? The EGR puts exhaust gas into the combustion chamber normally. Can it work backwards and vent all his pressurized intake into the exhaust? If it's not this, then it would be bent valves, but you said the compression is good so it looks like the EGR valve is your problem.
 
One thing I did notice while doing the boost leak test.. There is a hose on the throttle body that when disconnected stops the air from coming out of the exhaust pipe. I can't remember which hose this was but this might help someone come to a reason.

Thanks,
Chris.
 
Anyone else confirm this?

P.S. Where is the cheapest place to purchase an EGR Block off Plate..

Thanks,
Chris.
 
Silicone on hot attempted recirculated exhaust gas? Just go with a dejon blockoff, it's what i have. Just use the stock gasket to seal the blockoff, then slap the egr on top (mostly because you won't get new bolts unless you getthe ffwd blockoff).
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top