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My rear tires locked up on the freeway today.

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15+ Year Contributor
212
1
Jan 4, 2007
Portland, Oregon
My rear tires locked up on the freeway today. No good. I know some possible issues could be the transfer case, rear differential... what else could the rear tires locking up be. The car just drags the back tires after a 1/2 tire rotation any way.

I just need to know some feedback on places to check. Thanks.
 
ya it sounds like the rear diff, if you want to check disconnect the drive shaft and see if the rear is able to spin. if it cant it is more then likely the diff gave out.
 
Drain the gear oil. If its silver with chunks of metal you broke the spiders or teeth off the ring gear. Been there done that. I broke 4 teeth off the ring gear.

And if I have done this, I need to get the rear end rebuilt? And with what cost?
 
T-case is common...My buddy did it in his 92 right in front of me on the highway...luckily he was just starting to move from the red light. Kind of funny then
 
I just apparently replaced my transfer case, by the dealer, with the recall. It still won't move.
 
I have not tried to rebuild them. I stockpile them. I got 2 extra 4 bolt diffs, 4 transfer cases, 1 extra trans. I buy them up on ebay when i find them. Take the 4 bolts off the drive shaft at the rear diff,and see if the car moves. If it does its the transfercase. If not jack it up and turn the rear tires to see if they lock up at one point. (make sure the drifeshaft is still unhooked when doing that)Then the rear diff is broke. If buying a rear diff off e-bay make sure if you have a manual trans you buy one out of a manual trans car. Auto and manual used differant gear ratios.
 
Yeah. Im just trying to see whats the best cost effective way to fix this problem? Anyone know if there is a VFAQ on rear differential replacement?
 
You checked to make sure it wasn't the transfer case already? Just wasn't sure if the transfer case was replaced by the dealer before or after the drivetrain lockup.

Replacing the rear diff is not hard, but it is a PITA due to the weight and akward position you have to be to put one in. Four bolts hold the driveshaft to the rear diff. Four bolts hold the axles to the axle cups, two bolts on each side, and two bolts in the back at hold it in place (when I have the chance I'll scan some pictures to show you were the bolts are located). Use a floor jack to support the diff when removing and installing.

Seeing how it's much easier to replace the transfer case than it is to replace the rear diff, I'd check to make sure that didn't lock up first. I don't know about you, but I'd be pissed if I pulled the rear diff out only to find that there's nothing wrong with it.
 
Its the t-case same thing happened to me last summer... I got a new one under the recall... It only had a teaspoon of oil when I drained it along with some with a tiny bit of metal flakes... Rear end is still driving to this day fine...
 
the exact thing happened to my 1g but on mine it ended up being that the e brake wasn't releaseing, so the car would drive but once i got on the highway and the pads heated up and the metal expanded it would just lock my rear wheels, lift the rear of the car and see if the wheels spin freely when the e brake is down, and if they are locked just release them by hand and disconnect the cables, thats what i ended up doing
 
Yeah. Mine happens now at 2 mph as well. I think its the rear differential since I just replaced the transfer case.
 
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