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Slow Cranking, Car won't start.

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1glaserturbo

15+ Year Contributor
591
3
Feb 12, 2005
Creve Coeur, Missouri
Ok, so the car blew a headgasket and warped the head a couple weeks ago and I replaced everything that was visible, or could possibly be old. New headgasket, arps, new head (valve job and milled), starter, battery, timing belt, basically everything that wasn't new already. Car started up perfectly fine, drove it around a bit and had absolutely no problems.

Now the trouble, drove it up to Columbia Thursday and it ran great, come Friday morning after breakfast, I go to start it and she starts up real rough. There is almost no throttle response until about 20 seconds after startup then when I let off the gas it dies. I try to start it and all I get is a real slow crank and no start. I've checked everything from plugs, wires, coil pack, battery, starter, the car is getting fuel and spark, I'm 100% sure the car is timed and hasn't skipped a tooth (there is almost 0 tension between the cam gears). The car cranks over really easily with the plugs pulled, and only about 180* with them in (compression is 180 across the boards as well). I can't figure it out, this is killing me! I'm |--| that close to just driving this car off a cliff, someone help!



Chris:laser:
 
The problem is I can't test the voltage when the car is running, with the headlights on and so forth. The battery is basically brand new (2 days old now) so I don't see why that should be a problem at all. I've even tried to pop start it (nothing) and jump it off someone else (nothing).
 
luv2rallye said:
Why can't you test the voltage? Just wanted to see if the alternator is charging the battery or you have an unusual current draw since you say you have a slow crank.
Also did you check all vacuum lines for leaks?


Alternator is brand new and is charging the battery just fine.

0 vacuum leaks as well. I'm stumped :cry: and want my car!
 
I think I just solved my problem. In theory, the CAS (Cam Angle Sensor) controls the injector/spark firing when the motor is in time and allows it to run perfectly. If said CAS was messed up in anyway, it'd (in theory) cause my motor to basically run out of firing order. This is where I got my information from, everyone cross your fingers!

http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/1G/cas.htm
 
DAmotorsports said:
So have you found the problem

Maybe, I've found something else interesting out. When the Coolant Temperature sensor fouls, it will cause the ECU to dump excess fuel into the cylinders causing it to flood. Basically no starting with the cylinders flooded.

Well, when I blew the head wide open, I threw a CEL for that same sensor. Being the dumbass newbie I am, I didn't replace said sensor so I'm guessing the reason it started so roughly on Saturday was due to the coolant temp sensor dumping so much fuel into the cylinders during startup.

Arggh!
 
luv2rallye said:
A failed coolant sensor looks to the ECU as if the engine is cold so it enriches the mixture forever (and whether it is running or cranking). It needs to be replaced. Also I think it's time to check the ECU for leaking capacitors or just being bad. Open it up and look and smell. Look here for reasons why: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=238155.


ECU has been recapped here recently and I also tried 3 other working ECU's to test this. One ecu was in a car that drove to me, and drove back home so I know it's not the ECU.
 
starter? my car just had these same simptoms but my coolant temp sensor was unplugged and after 5 trys (with no start just a slow crank) battery died (2 week old battery) than i figured out my cylinders where fludded with gas got new plugs and did the lighter trick watched out for my face. than i found out my starter was busted it would try to start but it never got enough juice!
 
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