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How to check if there is metal in oil?

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Denji

Supporting Member
1,123
18
May 4, 2004
Calabash, North Carolina
How should i go about doing this? Basically I sent off my blown turbo to turbochargers.com for a repair estimate and cause of death evaluation. Upon recieving it they got back to me and told me it would need a new cartridge ($600) and that the cause of it expiring was due to a scored bearing likely caused by metal fragments in the oil. Well.. since i bought this used they told me it could have been damaged from the guys car before me, or it could be mine, what do you guys recommend i do about this, I had a couple ideas listed below.

1. I could send a sample of oil to an oil analysis lab, however, the oil is only about 100 miles old in the car, and its supposed to be after driving, which my car doesnt have a turbo right now so im not sure if i would get accurate test results. Costs $25 bucks and is a hassle to wait for.

2. I could drop the oil pan, but for one this sounds very hard and i still wont know if there is trace metal particles floating around killing my turbo.

3. I could drain my oil onto a magnet, and see if i pick anything significant up, however this wouldnt pick up non magnetic particles and im not sure if this is even a good way since its not very technical.

okay opinions? ideas? I want to throw a evo 16g on this sucker, but i dont want to blow another turbo.. Please respond!
 
In addition to the advice mentioned above (good stuff by the way), you can also use a magnetic drain plug or drain the oil and drag a telecsoping magnet around the bottom of the pan through the drain plug hole.

I still think your best option is to either pull the pan or do what Auto RS T mentioned above.

Keep us posted,

Andy
 
thanks for the ideas, what about if i were to cut open the filter, i just thought of that. Honestly i think damage was done before i even got the turbo, and has just been progressively getting worse. Today my friend brought over his brand new turbo so i could feel what amount of shaft play is acceptable, and the one i got i think the compressor wheel was able to touch the inlet before i even put it on, its just a matter of time after that. Sadly i didnt know enough a year ago when i did that to notice.
 
Sure, you can do that too, but I'd do that and strain the oil for the best possible picture of what's going on.
 
before i do this, is there any acceptable amount of substance allowed in the oil? in my mind there would have to be otherwise there would be no need for a filter. I will post up pictures of my results for second opinions, getting ready to get started on this, i will pull the oil pan as well if i have to.
 
Well, honestly, nothing should be really seen. You'd just want it to be black or yellow. Maybe a fine dirty layer (hard to descrive) on a paper strainer.

If you get something big that you can actually pick up, you might wanna take a closer looks to decipher its origin.
 
Just took off oil line, cleaned and blew pressurized air through them. Only a little bit of dirty type substance came out.. Could a slight amount of oil coking break off and score a turbo's bearings? More to come....
 
If it's the feed line you're referring to then yes, even a small obstruction can contribute to scoring the bearing. The film of oil the bearing rides on is thin enough as it is. Anything that impedes flow can make a mess.
 
Okay, I filtered my oil through a metal screen.. nothing, not even dirt... Preparing to use a coffee filter next, rigged up a filtration system for it... Will update.
 
I'm willing to bet that your clog in the feed line did it or the turbo had issues from the previous owner. In the meantime, I'm giving you props for being so determined in trying to find out the real deal.
 
cutting open the filter is going to make a mess..dont cut yourself!

i always use a paint filter from the paint shop,very fine,and if you are carefull,they can be reused :)
 
You might have to drop the oil pan at this point in addition to what you are trying now. Try the filter first, though.
 
You should have put a space heater under the oil pan and heated it up before draining the oil. Any heavy setiment in the oil will settle to the bottom of the pan and turn to a thick sluge. The only way to loosen this is with heat and since you cant drive the car, this would be the next best way. And since the oil is alredy drined, do as Andy said and stick a telescoping or flex magnet into the drain hole and see if it picks up anything. Unfortunately, most bearing particles are non magnetic so doing this migh be inconclusive.

As for cutting the filter open, either use a larger chain type pipe cutter or with a little ingenuity, you can use a can opener. Most any other way will create metal shavings that will contaminate the filter an make the whole process a waste of time.
 
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