I need help badly..code 41 detailed as possible

[Passion 4 Speed]

hey guys, i just installed a new head gasket and arp bolts in my car..it ran fined after i put everything back together..couple of hours later my car was very hard to start..once it did, crappy idle, extremly slow revving..no boost whatsoever.
datalogger picked up code 41 injector circuit..so far i checked..
all connections,ecu,and injector harness..

ecu is fine no leaking caps..

all connections are fine expect one..theres a vac hose on the intake manifold right between the fuel injectors (next to spark plugs) .. i dont know where it connects to..(i use to have my boost gauge installed with the fpr hose, after i did the headgasket/bolts job i didnt get any readings from my boost gauge like before?)

the harness on the injectors dont have any metal clips..but it has been like that since i bought the car

the only way i could test the issue was using my datalogger, i got the car started with its crappy idle..tested each injector while running heres what i got

1-2-3 all idles way worse when off..

but the 4th injector when i select it nothing happens same crappy idle
pulled the plug from injector 4 theres a lil bit of wet/dirt inside..cleaned it up with a dry paper towel..still nothing doesnt even start now..
i tried resseting my ecu..same results..
so far im thinking that one injector is shot..is there any other way i could check for trouble shooting? visually checking that one injector??
thanks so much in advance

 

[andymoraitis]

I would suspect an injector harness or connection issue before you start replacing injectors. You've done a great job of trouble shooting and isolating the problem, so your next step should be to reference this tech article and re-do the injector connection on that cylinder. You can find a great write up here:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=238747

So you can also trace where your vacuum lines are supposed to be routed, here's a link to the old Taboo vacuum guide. This should at least get you in the ballpark:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=198327&highlight=taboo+vacuum

Start with the easy stuff first and post back with any results you may have.

Good luck,

Andy

 

[Passion 4 Speed]

hey thanks a lot for your help. i'll keep you posted with the progress

 

[dieseltech]

If you have an injector circuit code the computer has done half the work for you. Now you need to isolate the problem. Check resistance at the injector with it unplugged. It should be a little over 2ohms. You can check the other injectors resistance and compare them. They should all be within a few tenths of an ohm. If that passes you need to check the resistor pack. I don't have my book with me at the moment so i cannot look up the specs for you. Im sure andy can help


Just looked up the code. Says there is an open in the injector circuit according to my manual on cd

 

[Passion 4 Speed]

im not sure if this would help but i logged my last run when it was runnin like crap with no boost. (maybe it can help you guys detect the problem)
this was all logged at the highest rpm i could get which was at was 4,718

INJP= 8.44ms
KNCK= 42 <brand new oem sensor 2 days old.. was at 0 when running fine during 12 pounds of boost
TPS= 99.6%
INJD=32.8%
TIMA= 13

yea i kno im glad i got a datalogger ..so to test the injectors i need to purchase a multimeter am i correct?
i can buy one right now at walmart..what should be my next move if i do find one injector out of spec??

thanks alot for your time guys really appericate it!!

 

[dieseltech]

Also take a good look at the connections. Make sure they are clean and free of corrosion. If they are corroded they may appear green in color. Clean the injector and harness connectors throughly and then retest. You will need either an ohm meter or a multimeter. If your injector meets specs and your connections are good i would check the resistor pack. It's on the firewall and has 5 wires connected to it. The red wire is the feed wire. Use the omhmeter to check from the red wire to the rest of the other wires. You should disconnect them before checking them. It's possible one of them is burntout.

 

[Passion 4 Speed]

UPDATE
Well i checked the connecters/harness for the fuel injectors and they where all green colored..so i bought some electrical cleaner from autozone..still no start.

i checked my spark plugs (NEW) and there FOULED so bad in one day of use..each of them are black and smell like gas. So i bought some new ones, same results..check the plugs again they smell like gas..

i reset the ecu again (after cleaning and replacing plugs) im not gettin code 41 again?

i bought a mutlimeter..but its not reading right at all, im gonna take it back and get another one, it keeps giving out the same readings on any wire..not too familar using these electrical tools..

it seems to me that im not getting spark..
theres a way to test that to see if im gettin power thru my coil pack..i get a spark plug and plug it and drop it into the valvecover hole and look for fireworks right? please correct me if im wrong..

 

[Auto RS T]

When holding the plug wire by the black rubber part with a plug in the end and holding it near a ground a spark should "jump" and indicate spark when cranking.

There is also a resistance test to check the coilpack.

The resistance is different on a 90 year than other years, the 90 values are .77-.95 ohms 91-94 values are .70-.86 ohms for the primary. (FYI)

Have you looked into the injector resistor packs? The code indicates the problem is in the injector circuit. Figure out how to use that meter and do the test like dieseltech had mentioned. You have to set it to ohms or resistance in this case also, the symbol looks similar to a horeshoe.

 

[Passion 4 Speed]

UPDATE
im having spark on all 4 cylinders...my spark plugs smell like gas..what im not getting air? MAS?

i have my downpipe open i see puffs of dark grey smoke everytime it would turn over attempting to start..sometimes it would smell like gas.

with this multimeter..im all i am getting is -132.8 on each injector harness, also my CAS reads that as well????
its wierd cause i have to ground the black wire to the car just for it to read..i cant have both the pos and neg wires on the injector harness to get a reading .
i tried changing the settings i get nothing
ohms settings mine has are
200 (only one that reads) 2000,20k,200k, and 2000k
i also have the key at "on" position.
new battery on it, tried the other settings it has..nothing..i think mines is busted

damn this multimeter not working right is the only thing thats holding me back from firguring out whats wrong with my car.

tomorrow im gonna see if i can return this meter for another one, check the motors compression and the timing (again to be sure)

thanks again guys for all of your help.

 

[Passion 4 Speed]

sprayed some starting fluid into each cylinder no start

 

[dieseltech]

NEVER USE STARTING FLUID!!!!!!! That stuff is dangerous and absolutely can and will blow your motor up and then you'll be screwed. Now as far as the multimeter goes the settings denote the maximum resistance they will read. You choose it manually but that won't matter. It almost sounds like you have a bad engine gound. One simple way to check this is to set your multimeter to DC voltage, this should be denoted by a straight line above the letter V, or something similar. Place one lead on a clean metal surface on the engine itself and the black lead on the negative battery terminal. Have someone crank the engine over. If you have a bad ground your voltage reading will probably be around 10 volts or so. If the ground is good your voltage will be .2 volts or less. Do this check. I would say a voltage reading of 1 volt or more would tell me I need to clean and inspect all grounds. 90% of all wiring problems are grounds.

 

[dieseltech]

I must apologize for leaving this bit of info out, it was early when I posted before. Make sure to check the resistance of the injectors seperately. Unplug them and then check the resistance of the injectors. And as far as having green stuff on them, did the cleaner work well?? I've never had any good experience with terminal cleaners. I always use some sort of tool to either scratch or rub the corrosion off. You could try vinegar and baking soda, this works well on batteries so it may do the trick on your connections.

 

[Passion 4 Speed]

my friends..
thanks so much for your time and patience for helping me out.
i finally had enough time to fully check my timing belt..and notice that my marks arent lined up at the bottom... once again it JUMPED..i was fooled by the camshafts being lined up at the top sorry about that guys.

i dont understand how it jumped time when
the tension of the belt is nice and tight..all of my timing components/tensioners/belts are new not even 30 miles on them.

i guess it jus jumped timing when i started the car..cause it was running perfeclty fine before.

i followed the instructions on fvaq..once i had all the marks lined up..rotate the crank 6 times clock wise to see if it lands on the marks again and they all did..

i guess code 41 popped up when i started the car with its really rough motor vibrations (being out of time) causing one of my injector harness to loosened out.

i'll keep u guys posted..

 

[Auto RS T]

Just because the marks lined back up after you rotated the crank doesn't mean the tension is within spec.

Did you measure the rod protusion on the auto tensioner between the base of the tensioner and the tensioner arm? Was in within 3.8 - 4.5mm?

The tensioning procedure requires you to turn the crank two revolutions, wait 15 minutes and measure the distance between the tensioner and the tensioner arm. If not within spec repeat procees until within spec, or replace auto tensioner.

Also, did you set the correct preload on the eccentric pulley? 2.6 - 2.8 Nm

 

[Passion 4 Speed]

no i havent done any of that.
i attempted to start the car again..but my battery is drained..as soon as i stopped cranking, i heard a nice pop sound from my downpipe..so i guess im gettin air/fuel/spark..i jus dropped my battery at advance auto for a recharge..and when i got back, i notice my tension was kinda loose..all marks are still good and the tension is tight again after rotating the crank.

so in the meantime imma measure the auto tensiors distance..sorry for the newbie Q
but whats a eccentric pulley? did u mean idle pulley ?

 

[Passion 4 Speed]

sad news..i only have compression on 2 cylinders.. #2. 065 and #4. 140 1 and 2 0 compression.
im gonna pull the head to see the damage..yay.

 

[Passion 4 Speed]

whoa..
maybe i wasnt doin the compression right/or the fact that u have to have the car nice and warm..or w/e.

but i put in new ngks..and she started.
idles like crap still though.

from 1000-3000 it has sluggish revs, but past that it revs like it has no problems??
i rev it back and forth 3k-6,000 rpm..smooth and quick response.
i have to keep giving it gas to keep the rough idle going.. everytime she died
i check the timing..checks out fine..

o and i also have to play with the gas pedal while cranking to start.

still no cel..and i notice theres a real small sensor that has got eaten up by corrison just by touching it the metal connecter snap. its near the throttle cable and on top of the isc i belive..i uploaded a real bad pic of it.

any ideas whats going on?

 

[dieseltech]

That looks like the Closed throttle validation switch. My cars CTVS wasn't adjusted right and it would idle high and set a tps code. I haven't been able to test to see if adjusting the switch if it fixed my tps problem. It did fix my high idle issue to an extent. You'll want to fix this for proper idle. It won't affect your cars off idle issues. Unless it was grounding itself while it should've been open.

 

[Passion 4 Speed]

its not starting up anymore (again) it wants too it jumps and everything like its about to start but still nothing
heres what i did...
timing is accurate
theres gas on each spark plug
i check the return line on the fpr..a lil bit of gas came out
i tested for spark (in the dark)..i think i have weak spark..i only see one tiny blue line coming out when i put the screwdriver next to it..some sparks are fast firing ..some are really slow.
and i notice blue lights near the coil pack while testing..i pulled it out it seems visually fine..i even cleaned inside the ternimals of the coil pack no luck.
since i have no money left to spend for my car, im gonna pull the head again and check for bent valves..if there fine..then i can only suspect my coil pack...?

 

[dieseltech]

You don't have to pull the head to inspect for bent valves. You can simply remove the valve cover and check to see if there is any loose lash adjusters. If there is, it's a good indication that the valves are bent.

 

[Auto RS T]

Also check that all the basic timing marks line up at TDC. I thought you said it jumped? Check all the marks to know for sure.

The eccentric pulley is the pulley on the timing belt that has two small holes in it for a tool to fit in, it looks similar to an idler, but it is off center and it changes tension when rotated.

There is a test you can do to see if the coilpack is any good, or swap it with a working unit, to eliminate it.

 

[Passion 4 Speed]

im happy to hear that i dont have to pull the head off..well all of the lash adjusters are rock solid..dont budge at all.
my timing marks are dead on at tdc..
how bout my base timing? i have a aftermarket underdrive pulley..but it didnt have any marks on it for to tell what degrees my motors at. i dont know if its at 5,10,or 15.

swapping the coilpacks can be done on any year 1g dsm? my friend has a 93 4g63 motor non turbo..his coil pack works good. (matter of fact he's coil pack went out after a t-belt job)

well i really am hoping that this solves my problems..keep u guys updated

 

[Auto RS T]

Swap on the stock pulley to time your car. If you don't have one anymore, borrow your friends. Don't forget to ground out the timing adjustment connector on the firewall.

1g coil packs are the same except for 90 years. So you would need to find a 90 coilpack.

Let us know

 

[Passion 4 Speed]

thanks, i been having troubles finding a 90 dsm at the junkyards..no friends with a 90 dsm and i cant afford a new coilpack right now so that sucks..just gonna have to wait awhile.

im still confused though..i still dont have compression on 1 or 3. i tested it again today.

i removed all sparkplugs,dissconect mpi fuse and coil pack plug. when i test 1 and 3 while cranking my rpm needle doesnt jump..then testing 2,4 its jumps and i get readings .
all the pistons move up and down i wacthed the pistons move while my lil handy brother cranks the motor..and felt air coming out on 2 and 4.

even if the motors not warmed up to get proper readings..i should get some compression on a cold motor right?

if im doing the test right (please tell me if i forgot to do something during the test), then its most likely my piston rings right?
if thats true then damn i melted the rings on 1 and 3 after a hour of driving..even though i had 100% on all fuel trim levels??
i dunno somethings not right...

luckly im having a mechanic coming by to check it out

thanks again guys for your time and help!!

 

[steve]

I still dont have compression on 1 or 3. I tested it again today.

Did you tell us that before? I missed it. That would explain why the car runs poorly.

Steve