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Problem Diagnosis Can't figure out the problem? Does the question not fit in one of the other tech forums? New Members can post here.

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Old 08-13-2006, 06:49 PM   #1 (permalink)
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From: Milton, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Jun 2005
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Angry Cylinders 2 & 3 not firing, HELP!

This car has just been bad luck for me. Problem, after problem.

Anyways, after blowing my motor a few months ago, I decided to swap a 1G in. Btw, the car is a 2G Talon. Motor is completely rebuilt.

After having some timing belt issues because of a faulty brand new factory tensioner, I finally was able to finish putting the car back together today and try to fire her up.

Car starts up and sounds really rough as if it's missing. Turn the car off and decide that it's clearly missing. I decided to pull the plugs out. Plugs 1 and 4 are firing and the plugs are darkened, but when I pulled 2 and 3 out they were still brand new. I looked down into the cylinder and the piston was still shiny new with lots of gas on it. So they are getting gas but no spark. First thing that comes to mind is a faulty coil pack. Luckily I had one laying around. Swap them out and still the same thing.

Anybody have any ideas as to what I can check for?

Also, another thing worth mentioning, my factory tach stop working. I also wired an after market monster tach straight into the tach signal on the harness going into the ECU and nothing? Could this be the problem?

Recent additions with the swap
-MAFT Translator and map sensor
-1G green top CAS.

Thanks guys.
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Old 08-13-2006, 07:04 PM   #2 (permalink)
DSM Wiseman
 
From: Newburg, Missouri
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I "assume" you looked at the 2 wires to confirm no spark? If so, and you have spark on the other two, I would look closely at your CAS to see if it's sending a signal to the dead coil. If you get a signal from one side and not the other then I'd look at the primary side of the ignition system. Possible broken wire. Do a continuity test on your primary wires from the CAS to the coil packs. Unhook both sides to verify continuity. And while you're at it, do a short to ground test on the same wires. One side of ohm meter to ground and the other side to each primary wire.

let us know


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Old 08-13-2006, 07:11 PM   #3 (permalink)
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From: Milton, Ontario, Canada
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Thanks for the quick response. I will do all you've suggested tommorow because right now I've had it with the car and I think I'm going to go out for a little.

Anyways, no I didn't really check for spark. I just assumed their wasn't any seeing that their was fuel in both those cylinders. What would be the best and safest way to go forth and check for spark? Thanks.
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Old 09-26-2006, 09:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
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From: Surgoinsville, Tennessee
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I just did the same swap to my car like a couple days ago. And I came up with the same problem. I had crossed the two blue signal wires. I rechecked my wiring and switched the two wires and it fired right up. The blue and white signal (2g crank sensor) goes to the yellow wire on the 1g CAS plug (postion 2 on the plug) and the blue and red signal wire(2g cam snesor) goes to the white wire on the 1g CAS plug (position 1). I thought I had it right and proved that I did not. It can never hurt to double check. Hope you get it running!


tyler
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