Can'tfigure out my problem!

[jake_95eclipse]

My car just died while I was driving. It is throwing the Air/Fuel metering, but now the car won't even fire. I do have the 3" MAF and Full throttle MAFT. Let me know what you think my prob might be.

 

[jake_95eclipse]

I bought the car, and ten miles later it broke down. It ran perfect up until it shut down. For a while it would start but if I push in the clutch it would start misfiring and the RPM's would bounce around from 0-1000. I decided I would try to find my prob and now it won't start at all. I'm hoping that it is still the same thing that wouldn't let it run b4. I haven't touched it for a week now, but it has been sitting for almost a month. IT would also start bouncing once it started to warm up.

 

[boostedinaz]

First things first. Make sure it has spark and fuel first. Once that is done move on to other options. Do a boost leak test and make sure there are no leaks. Once that is done replace and O2 sensor or swap it out with an other one and see if that helps. I would also check all conections for the O2 sensors as well. Make sure that the MAFT is hooked up well and tightly and make sure adjustments are correct.

 

[jake_95eclipse]

I have spark and it is getting plenty of fuel. I have checked pretty much everything but I have the GM MAF, and I noticed that one of the wires had been rubbing on the tranny and It was touching metal to metal. Could this be a major problem?

 

[boostedinaz]

I have spark and it is getting plenty of fuel. I have checked pretty much everything but I have the GM MAF, and I noticed that one of the wires had been rubbing on the tranny and It was touching metal to metal. Could this be a major problem?

Yes. It coul dhave grounded out and burt the MAF or the MAFT. I would try and swap those out with working units first and see what happens.

 

[jake_95eclipse]

I tried hooking up the stock MAF and it still won't even try to start.

 

[boostedinaz]

I tried hooking up the stock MAF and it still won't even try to start.

Then move on to the other items I talked about in my first post.

 

[jake_95eclipse]

My Boost lines are fine, and the o2 sensor is good, but it still won't start now. I did make sure that the connections were good to my MAF, and still I get nothing. I just changed the battery, and the Spark Plugs. What are some other options that I have of getting it on the road?

 

[donmagicjuan]

Well, this one's a bit of a thinker if you've tried everything suggested so far without any luck. Short of an atypical crankwalk manifestation, I'm not sure if it could be anything other than what's already been covered. You mention that you are getting spark and plenty of fuel. Could you explain how you verified these things? Also, did you do an actual boost leak test? All you stated is that your "boost lines" are fine. I'm not sure what you meant by that.

 

[boostedinaz]

My Boost lines are fine, and the o2 sensor is good, but it still won't start now. I did make sure that the connections were good to my MAF, and still I get nothing. I just changed the battery, and the Spark Plugs. What are some other options that I have of getting it on the road?

SO you have done a boost leak test, and how do you know the O2 sensor is good?

I would try a different ECU perhaps the wire short burned a portion of the ECU.

 

[jake_95eclipse]

I'm still blowing off under boost, and it is holding vacuum when I try to start it. We tested the spark with a volt meter and when I tested the Throttle body sensor, it smells like gas, and that all you smell. It's not firing at all though. I did take the Honeycomb out of the MAF because whoever owned it be4 scraped it while puttin it on. Could that be a problem? I was very careful about taking it out so I didn't hit the sensor. That is when it stopped starting. I also took out the cruise control, so I had room to work. That is all we had messed with up to the point when it stopped starting. I also tried another stock ECU, and I changed the o2 sensor. Possibility that it is bad? The other problem I noticed is that the extrnal wastegate has been welded wide open to the manifold, so I'm dumping most of my boost out the exhaust. It was running 6 psi. I do have a Slowboy Racing Stage 2 Motor.

 

[donmagicjuan]

I'm still blowing off under boost...

^^What does this mean?

Try removing the 20A motor fuse, and crank the car over for a while with the throttle fully open. It's possible that the ECU was the real problem, but in trying to start it so much you flooded the engine. After cranking for a while like this to get rid of the excess fuel, replace the fuse and attempt to start it again. Of course, I'm assuming you still have the replacement ECU installed. I should add that a voltmeter is not an adequate tool to check for proper ignition. The pulses are just too short-lived for you to be able to tell anything.

 

[jake_95eclipse]

What would you use to check it? I don't still have it installed but I can get it back in. It came out of another 95 but is rebuilt. ^^I don't know where ## seeing that at? ITs not firing now. I don't really know how to explain it any better? IT has been through 5 diff mechanics and none of them know what it is! How would I check for Crankwalk?

 

[donmagicjuan]

It's possible that the ECU was the real problem, but in trying to start it so much you flooded the engine.

A flooded engine won't turn over because the abundance of fuel prevents the spark plugs from igniting it. The reason I suggested this is because you said that all you could smell was fuel when you were checking the TPS. If it still doesn't start with the different ECU after clearing out the fuel, post back up and we'll go from there.

 

[jake_95eclipse]

We just tried that and still nothing!The other thing that we found is that the fuel pump has been rewired to the battery. witha relay and a fuse. Is this a huge problem?

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

Try this...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1228685&postcount=7

 

[donmagicjuan]

We just tried that and still nothing!The other thing that we found is that the fuel pump has been rewired to the battery. witha relay and a fuse. Is this a huge problem?

Heh, no. Asuuming it was done correctly, a fuel pump rewire is a common upgrade. The stock wiring is small in diameter, meaning it has a higher restistance. The added wire resistance lowers the voltage applied to the pump, which in turn lowers its flow output. Upgrading the pump and rewiring it with larger gage wire raises the flow output so that it can meet the demands of a larger turbo.

 

[jake_95eclipse]

So could it be an ignition module plug? It was bigger gauge wire. But couldn't it all be rewired somewhere other than directly to the battery?

 

[donmagicjuan]

So could it be an ignition module plug? It was bigger gauge wire. But couldn't it all be rewired somewhere other than directly to the battery?

The cleanest way to wire it is to ground the pump locally and fuse it in an empty location in your fusebox. It should also have a relay to switch on power with a 12V ignition source. This shouldn't be what's causing your problem, but if it were my car, I'd rewire it again. It's kind of bad juju to wire something directly to the battery.

 

[jake_95eclipse]

I'll try that then. Could it be a turbo timer problem?

 

[jake_95eclipse]

So I figured out my problem today, and the MAFT shorted out and it ruined te wire from it to my ECU. I have to rewire the whole thing because the wire that is supposed to go to my CAS was actually going to my ECU. The sensor was also fried at the time that it shorted. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[donmagicjuan]

So I figured out my problem today, and the MAFT shorted out and it ruined te wire from it to my ECU. I have to rewire the whole thing because the wire that is supposed to go to my CAS was actually going to my ECU. The sensor was also fried at the time that it shorted. Thanks for the help guys.

I'm glad to hear you'll be up and running soon. Good luck!

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

yep , keep me posted in the IC goodluck with the car.

 

[jake_95eclipse]

Okay so we finally figured out the big problem of the motor. The tensioner went out and I jumped timing 180*. So I got that changed and were still waiting on the Translator to get the car started. Does anybody know where I can get a new head if this one is fried?

 

[donmagicjuan]

Okay so we finally figured out the big problem of the motor. The tensioner went out and I jumped timing 180*. So I got that changed and were still waiting on the Translator to get the car started. Does anybody know where I can get a new head if this one is fried?

Holy Jeebus, 180*? You can probably repair/rebuild the existing head, which should be cheaper than a new one. Just something to think about.