2g Logging water temps of 210-217. too hot?

[spoold]

Ok so lately ive been trying to tune my car in some colder weather at night (52-60 degrees air temp).

However, ive noticed im NEVER under 209 degrees water temp? and im having lots of pulled timing even with optimum settings for my injectors?

My car sits at 217-219 in traffic? when cruising i still see 209-213 degrees?

I installed a new 180 thermostat, removed the a/c condensor in front of the radiator, and cut my bumper to flow more air (i do havet he XSpower FMIC)

I flushed the coolant and did a 30% coolant 70% water mix, with a bottle of redline water wetter.

I have no idea why its running so hot all the time, any suggestions? the radiator was new 3 months ago.

Is this affecting my timing, and if so, how can i go about lowering my temps more? I did almost everything the tech article says to do, yet still cant get lower than 206 degrees water temp?

 

[spoold]

Also, to mention, when i turn my car off after driving (and timing it), you can hear the coolant/water mix boiling under the hood. It will boil even after the car has turned off for nearly 4 minutes?

 

[shortydtp]

wow you really got some overheating problems. I live in phoenix where 110f is everyday hell, and my temps are 196-203 "on trafic"

 

[donmagicjuan]

Unless you have evidence to the contrary, you might try a quick compression test to check for a failed head gasket. It could be what's dumping the extra heat into your coolant. If that turns out to be the culprit, I'd replace the head bolts with some ARP studs while you're at it.

 

[shortydtp]

yes do a compression test, also if you don't have one you can always check by opening you radiator cap , and check for bubbles building up, don't try it at normal temps, do it when cold till warm.

also check you timing marks. that can also cause overheating.

 

[blackGSX2g]

If you know you have no cooling leaks and your radiator cap is new, go to Autozone/Advance Auto and pick up a hydrocarbon testor. They sell them as 'block testers' and they test your coolant for hydrocarbons (traces of exhaust gasses in your system). If its positive, you've got a headgasket replacement in your future. If not, then you've got a cheaper issue to solve.

Does it start to overheat when you do heavy boosting?

You lose 1* of timing if you are over 206* and 2* of timing once you hit 224*

I would try and make some ducting around your FMIC to make sure that all the air goes THROUGH it and the radiator, not just around it. There is a big gap between the top of your FMIC and the bumper...air will want to hit the FMIC and go over it. We want to direct everything through all 3 of the cores on the front of your car.

 

[spoold]

Thanks matt, i will pick up that hydrocarbon tester. Any idea on price?

It doesnt start to overheat in boost, its more of a common thing. The car is just ALWAYS above 208 cruising, and sits at 218 standing still.

I'll try the hydrocarbon test and some ducting.. the car HAS been kinda slow lately.. possible headgasket i think

 

[dmc67]

it could possibley be vapor locked my cavalier was and it would bubble when i shut it off for 5-10 mins

 

[spoold]

it could possibley be vapor locked my cavalier was and it would bubble when i shut it off for 5-10 mins

This is what my car does, what is vapor locked?

 

[talonTSIDriver]

This is what my car does, what is vapor locked?

Trapped Air Bubble. What some people do is drain all the coolant out, and start the car and add the coolant while its running.

 

[blackGSX2g]

My car would bubble like that after I shut off my car when the headgasket was bad. Most large air bubbles should work themselves out, just check the coolant level after its completely cooled down.

Dan, I recall the tester being around $25ish. I had mine tested at a buddy's shop around here for free...I would imagine shops up there may do the same for you.

 

[talonTSIDriver]

My car would bubble like that after I shut off my car when the headgasket was bad. Most large air bubbles should work themselves out

It took my cobra a week before the air bubbles worked its way out. after flushing the radiator. Car would always run pritty hot and then just one day it must have came out because the coolant temp just started to decrease and go to normal.

 

[MMM]

Air pockets in the coolant WILL nuke your headgasket, so if your comp test/block test checkout OKAY (meaning your HG is OKAY) bleed the cooling system ASAP!! Airpockets will also cause your motor to overheat.

 

[spoold]

Ok well it turns out i was about a quart low on coolant mix. i added a quart of coolant/water mix and now i run about 204-210. The car still bubbles upon shut down, whats the easiest way to flush the air bubbles, seeing as how i JUST flushed my coolant system? Did i flush it improperly to attain air bubbles?

 

[funguy]

i'm having the same problem except i don't get any overflow bubbling. i'm getting some stupid heat now. i'm averaging 203 to 210 city and 210-222 highway driving. I have already did a coolant flush and added PRO-Blend ice water to it and water wetter.

 

[spoold]

Funguy- to correct my overheating, i have so far done the following:

10" Spal pusher fan (880 CFM) i got it for 30 bucks
Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo Radiator Cap (1.1 bar) 7.56
30% coolant 70% water, bottle of water wetter

Started teh car completely cold,w ith the radiator cap off. Let it get all the way to operating temp before placing hte cap back on (burped it)

And finally, removed the a/c condensor

I now see 196-200 max, sitting in traffic AND highway. all for well under 45 dollars

 

[jltcat]

just a stupid question you have the fans on the bumper side of the radiator right?
next stupid question is your turbo shielded (heat shield or turbo wrap kit installed)
just one more do you know what your exhaust temps are?

 

[Snobordin8]

just a stupid question you have the fans on the bumper side of the radiator right?
next stupid question is your turbo shielded (heat shield or turbo wrap kit installed)
just one more do you know what your exhaust temps are?

Fans on the bumper side of the radiator? Maybe I'm not getting what you are saying but the fans should be on the motor side of the radiator.

 

[TSIMonsteR]

If he had a pusher it would be on the bumper side pushing are through, as opposed to a puller pulling air through from the motor side

 

[Snobordin8]

If he had a pusher it would be on the bumper side pushing are through, as opposed to a puller pulling air through from the motor side

Ahh gotcha, I hadn't heard of that before.

 

[funguy]

Funguy- to correct my overheating, i have so far done the following:

10" Spal pusher fan (880 CFM) i got it for 30 bucks
Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo Radiator Cap (1.1 bar) 7.56
30% coolant 70% water, bottle of water wetter

Started teh car completely cold,w ith the radiator cap off. Let it get all the way to operating temp before placing hte cap back on (burped it)

And finally, removed the a/c condensor

I now see 196-200 max, sitting in traffic AND highway. all for well under 45 dollars

thats pretty good. i was planning to get a higher pressure rad cap, see how that works first.
I will take your advice and try burping the system again. i plan on getting the fal fan system, and wiring them up once i have ignition, that way it will stay cool all day long

go dsm go haha

 

[kraka]

Well, my temps basically stay where yours used to be at...I run about 216 on the highway, without boost...

I have a fmic and the large a/c condensor in front...I also overheat like you did...

So far, I have:

- 12" slimline
- 180* tstat
- Greddy 1.3 bar rad. cap

Yeah....

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

I have a question and rather than opening a new thread Ill ask in here.

After about a 30 minture drive stop and go today...about 85 and humid I logged, stoped in my drive way. I would creep up to 210 then it would drop back down to 200 when the fans came on. They shut off and slowly 200...203...207...210 then back to 200 when fans come on. My question is should I fool the comp to reading 10 degrees hotter so my fans come on at 200 instead? and will DSMLink show the actual temp or the "Fooled" temp it gave the ecu. Thanks guys. I have the XS fimc kit with all AC stuff pulled and stock cooling system.

 

[olmytsi]

Have you tried flushing your cooling system lately? How about running a bit more water than coolant? Are you running the stock fans still?

I think you can do the whole fooling the ecu with dsmlink but keep in mind it will affect other parameters which are determined by coolant temp. (timing for example)

 

[dnhieu]

I have a question and rather than opening a new thread Ill ask in here.

After about a 30 minture drive stop and go today...about 85 and humid I logged, stoped in my drive way. I would creep up to 210 then it would drop back down to 200 when the fans came on. They shut off and slowly 200...203...207...210 then back to 200 when fans come on. My question is should I fool the comp to reading 10 degrees hotter so my fans come on at 200 instead? and will DSMLink show the actual temp or the "Fooled" temp it gave the ecu. Thanks guys. I have the XS fimc kit with all AC stuff pulled and stock cooling system.

210 at idle is fine. i ushally see 209 when im sitting in back to back traffic. if you want to via dsm link is run both of your coolant fans all the time. its what i do. it just takes forever to warm up and forever for my fuel trims to move but its worth it to me to keep my car cool. i would much rather see 200 over 209 but 209 still isnt that bad at idle. i ushally see 196-199 while driving...