stump the car geeks ( this problems a good one)

[car_guy_dsm]

ok ive talked to mechanics all around and looked through here a little bit and i have gotten some info but poerhaps not enough.

so heres the problem.....
basicly i got taken to the cleaners by a mechanic that ( long story verry short) replaced my whole motor with a used one about 4 months ago. ( i paid 8000 cad)

so i got it back and the turbo ( that was replaced) was blowing oil. and it had an idle surge problem, they told me they turned up the idle because they didnt like how low it was. and i bought it. also the clutch they put in ( centerforce) seems like its not dis-enguaging properly.

so i kept bugging them and they didnt want to honour the warranty ......... so now im on my own ( perfectly capable ) ...... i ordered a turbo and a few other goodies from buschur racing. so thats the turbo problem.

but that still leaves the surging and clutch problem and this is why i am posting this. i know there have been a hundred posts on idle surge and iac valves. and another hundred on leaky slave cylinders and the like. but my question is this. ( more of a theory that i'd like feed back on)

my clutch only has problems when the vehicle is warm .... its ok when its cold. and there are no leaks on the slave cylinder. im thinking that i might have an air bubble in the system that gives me the slight clutch problem but this problem is exagerated by the high idle and surging. this is the only way i can explain the problem only happening when its hot

what you guys think ?

 

[DSM MAN]

I am not sure on the Idle surge, but if I were you I would bleed the clutch system right. Which you have to have a tube that goes from the bleeder valve go into a cup or something that has clean clutch fluid in it otherwise it can suck up air this way it sucks in fluid. If you are still having some issues I would try adjusting the rod on the master which is up behind your pedals in your car. I hope you are kinda small otherwise thats gonna be very uncomfortable haha. Anyway give those things a try for a start see if they work. Good luck to ya.

 

[knighteclipse1]

Love this " stump the car geeks " we should name a forum this!!!

 

[car_guy_dsm]

thanks dsm man ..... i was actually gonna bleed the clutch but i was gonna do it like i would the brakes ... i didnt know about the whole " cup " process. guess its good i posted this then. and as for the adjustment....... i have talked to ( not exagerating ) 6 mechanics asking for some kind of adjustment..... they all said there wasnt one, i think that that is probably more the problem than air in the system but bleeding it couldnt hurt.


i actually got the "stump the geek " title from sport compact car magazine they have that as a regular article

 

[JCMDSM]

It seems like you have the clutch problem figured out so I'll talk about idle surge. There are several causes such as the ISC and CAS. I would suggest that you do the following tests : With the car idling, pull the MAS plug out. If the surge goes away or is less severe you have found one culprit. Another thing would be to make sure your CAS isn't rotated 180 degrees. To check this pull the CAS off and be sure the rotor with the notch is aligned with the notch on the CAS housing. Reinstall it and see what you get when you start her up. The common idle surge contributer is the ISC. Once again with the car idling, disconnect the ISC and see if the idle smooths out. If so get a new ISC and you should be set. Make sure you set the base idle as per the manual. Good luck and let us know what happens --Jon

 

[car_guy_dsm]

thanks for the diagnosis tests .. i would have never thought about those 2 problems ...... ive read up a bit but never actually saw how to diagnose those problems

oh and i just spent 4 hours trying to adjust my clutch pedal and the cotter pin holding the clevis pin in place is on the wrong side ( the shielded side) so i cant get at it.... and my lock nut for the direct adjustment is over tightened ( i almost made it round ) any suggestions ?

 

[lasertim]

My very first suggestion would be to go out and buy the Factory service manual. It is probably the most important tool you can have when it comes to testing/adjusting/fixing components on your car.

Sounds like you have a real basket case for a car though. I would try to get some compensation from the shop that messed everything up.

 

[car_guy_dsm]

well the story is a long one .... basicly spent 8000 cad for a motor replacement with a used motor and a turbo that leaked oil..... needless to say i got taken to the cleaners.

i have a manual ..... im still going to check the sensors that it was suggester by jcmdsm but im not getting a check engine light.

i think im gonna take a dremel to the cotter pin next weekend and just switch it around ( easier access) and once the pedal is dis-connected i can adjust the pushrod ( unless someone else can suggest something)

but its all gonna have to wait till next weekend .. im installing my turbo and fuel pump then anyways so i figure its as good a time as any

thanks for the help guys and i will post an update on this thread next weekend but i will check in from time to time durring the week for any more brain storming ideas