Car keep movin even when clutch all the way down

[95gsx6bolt]

Okay,

I got my car back from buschur, dyno was 217 at the wheels with 17lbs of boost... I have a 2600 ACT with street disc.... fidanza flywheel....

I went to the track... staged, put it in 1st, had the clutch pedal all the way down... reved to 5000-5500 rpms..... then the car started to slowly move..... (remember clutch all the way down).... so the car ended moving out of the staging lights.... okay, so I then reverse, put it back in between the staging lights... started same process.... and again the car started to move again.... so I retried it again.... but this time I used the E-brake.... okay didn't move cause E-brake was up.... lights go off... put the E-brake down, full throttle.... clutch released.... ran a 13.9 best time.... ran a few more times.... 14's with mistakes.....
And after my 3rd and 4th time... my clutch started smelling real bad.... and after the 5th run..... something happened cause my clutch started throbbing back and forth when it was all the way up.... made it down the track, picked up my ticket..... and couldn't put it in 1st, turned off the car, put it in neutral car started fine... but still couldn't put it in 1st.... turned it off again... and it was able to go into gear, but started up the car and it just would go anywhere.... like it was trying to start up but couldn't..... okay, figured clutch was toast... had it towed.... now.....

1)Why was my clutch engaging in the first place??? Even with the cluth pedal all the way down..... why was I rolling.....

2)Was 5000-5500 rpm too high to launch???

3)This was a brand new clutch..... since september....

4)Do I have to break in a 2600 ACT???

5)What is the major difference between the Street Disc, 4puck, 6puck? Maybe I should go with something else than the street disc??? It seems to cost more anyways???

6)Do I need a new flywheel now? Or can i resurface the fidanza?

Please help....

 

[dedlewamp]

Okay,

1)Why was my clutch engaging in the first place??? Even with the cluth pedal all the way down..... why was I rolling.....

2)Was 5000-5500 rpm too high to launch???

3)This was a brand new clutch..... since september....

4)Do I have to break in a 2600 ACT???

5)What is the major difference between the Street Disc, 4puck, 6puck? Maybe I should go with something else than the street disc??? It seems to cost more anyways???

6)Do I need a new flywheel now? Or can i resurface the fidanza?

Please help....

1. You'll need to adjust your clutch more, so it is fully disengaged. Your adjustment will underneath the dash on your car. Check the VFAQ for the procedure. That smell was probably from slipping your clutch too much, or it slipping during the run. I really doubt your clutch was slipping at your power level, but if it's worn enough it might. Your car moved forward probably because the clutch was still slightly slipping on the flywheel, even with the clutch fully depressed. Also, bleed your system and check all the cylinders.

2. Nope, that is a good RPM. You could even go higher, but there is a greater risk of breaking things at higher RPMS. It really depends on your modifications.

3. You can destroy a clutch in a day or less, if driven wrong. Did it just start doing this?

4. Yes, you have to break in all new clutches. This involves some gentle town driving, with no abuse or high RPM launches. 500-1000 miles is usually sufficient.

5. They all function the same, but have different purposes in mind. The puck clutches are more resistant to heat buildup, but are a little less streetable than what you have now. I'd stick with the 2600, as it has more than enough holding ability at your power level.

6. You usually don't resurface them, you should be able to purchase a new surface for your flywheel, as it should be a separate part and replacable.

 

[FlatBlackTerror]

Ya, sounds like you need to adjust your clutch. Also, you can look into one of those extended slave cylinder rods.

 

[95gsx6bolt]

1. You'll need to adjust your clutch more, so it is fully disengaged. Your adjustment will underneath the dash on your car. Check the VFAQ for the procedure. That smell was probably from slipping your clutch too much, or it slipping during the run. I really doubt your clutch was slipping at your power level, but if it's worn enough it might. Your car moved forward probably because the clutch was still slightly slipping on the flywheel, even with the clutch fully depressed. Also, bleed your system and check all the cylinders.

2. Nope, that is a good RPM. You could even go higher, but there is a greater risk of breaking things at higher RPMS. It really depends on your modifications.

3. You can destroy a clutch in a day or less, if driven wrong. Did it just start doing this?

4. Yes, you have to break in all new clutches. This involves some gentle town driving, with no abuse or high RPM launches. 500-1000 miles is usually sufficient.

5. They all function the same, but have different purposes in mind. The puck clutches are more resistant to heat buildup, but are a little less streetable than what you have now. I'd stick with the 2600, as it has more than enough holding ability at your power level.

6. You usually don't resurface them, you should be able to purchase a new surface for your flywheel, as it should be a separate part and replacable.

(3. You can destroy a clutch in a day or less, if driven wrong. Did it just start doing this?)

Yeah, I think the most part, I didn't break it in.... right when I put on the ACT, I drove it and double clutched it at 3500.... few more times and then I did quit after that..... kinda remembered someone saying something about breaking it in.....

(Your car moved forward probably because the clutch was still slightly slipping on the flywheel, even with the clutch fully depressed.)

So it was slipping cause my clutch was worn right?
So are you also saying that there could be something wrong with my slave/master cylinders? I did bleed my clutch when I swapped it...

Should I also stick with the street disc???

 

[FlatBlackTerror]

Improper breaking in wouldnt cause this. There is a common problem with teh ACT 2600, its a pretty heavy clutch and it has bent slave cylinder rods without trying. The reason its moving forward is beacuse its not completely disengaging, hence why iid reccomend the extended slave cylinder rod and/ or adjusting the clutch master cylinder.

 

[dedlewamp]

Improper breaking in wouldnt cause this. There is a common problem with teh ACT 2600, its a pretty heavy clutch and it has bent slave cylinder rods without trying. The reason its moving forward is beacuse its not completely disengaging, hence why iid reccomend the extended slave cylinder rod and/ or adjusting the clutch master cylinder.

You were probably slipping because you need to either adjust your clutch, bleed your system, or both.

You shouldn't have to use a extended slave rod if your entire system is functioning properly and setup correctly. The extended cylinder is just a bandaid for other problems with the system.

Bending slave cylinder rods? Never ever heard of that. Though, a heavy clutch will point out any weak parts in your hydraulic system. Check and replace if necessary your slave and master cylinders, and look into a braided hose.

A street disk will be more than enough for your setup!