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Slave Cylinder: Found why they fail---Fix it my self ? PICTURES

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EclipseTrbo420A

15+ Year Contributor
3,427
39
Jan 23, 2004
WhiteOak/PGH, Pennsylvania
I was making a right turn the other day and pushed the clutch in and it stayed on the floor. No Biggie, got it towed home and took off all the intercooler piping ( used this as a reason to clean everything up :D ) Anyway I found when bleeding the system to get some pressure in there to find the leak it was leaking out of the slave cylinder boot.

In these pictures I show how I took it apart, and now im wondering if i clamp the boot will it fix the problem ? After taking it all apart and putting it together it hold and makes pressure just fine. Heres the pictures Let me know what you think.

Pic 1: All taken apart
Pic 2: The spring and cyliner thing slide in a seal perfectly.
Pic 3: Shows how the other picec connects incase you dont know. ( I didnt haha )
Pic 4: Shows where the fluid and bubbles were comming out when this was on the car.
 

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Never mind I found out why all of our slave cylinders fail on us DSM'ers :mad: If you look close at this pic you will see the rubber seal. When you push the clutch in the fluid is pressed against this seal. The seal is shaped like a cup to catch the fluid and create the platform the hydraulic pressure is placed on. That intern moves the rod thing that attaches to the tranny. NOW, upon further inspection of this little seal. It has a small tear in it along the bottom of the "bowl" shape it makes. That results in....pressure from the clutch pedal fills up this seal, blows the little hole in it ( like mine and im sure many others ) and there it is NO CLUTCH PEDAL PRESSURE. Your clutch sticks to the floor and it makes for a nastly looking leak at the boot that covers the shaft on the slave cylinder. So yea the only problem here is that cup shaped rubber seal. Im going down to napa to see if there is anything that resembles this seal Ill let you guys know if there actually is a quick fix for a "bad" slave cylinder.
 

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a new slave is not to expensive i think i got one from nopi.com for like $40 or so awhile back when mine went out. also i think that there is a rebuild kit that you can get but just make sure that you hone the cylinder to make sure there is no burrs or anything like that in the cylinder.
 
Napa should have one, they show it on their web site for like 13-15 dollars. But if you have to order it i see that nopi has the same one that comes stock for $25 and all you have to do is install it back on. you dont even have to mess with the old one. saves time :)
 
Should also start paying attention to the master too. The two cylinders take the same amount of beating. Why so bent on saving the slave? They're pretty cheap. And it's also a good time to do a reservoir eliminating SS line mod.
 
No_Skillz said:
Should also start paying attention to the master too. The two cylinders take the same amount of beating. Why so bent on saving the slave? They're pretty cheap. And it's also a good time to do a reservoir eliminating SS line mod.


Does the SS line make that much of a difference? Also, I work at napa so Ill have them order me a new one tomarrow. I guess this will just make the old parts shelf haha.
 
EclipseTrbo420A said:
...
it was leaking out of the slave cylinder boot.

In these pictures I show how I took it apart, and now im wondering if i clamp the boot will it fix the problem ?
...

It looks as if you are on the right track to repairs. I wanted to comment on the clamp idea you posed. It won't do a thing except blow up and split the convoluted bellows of the dust boot. When you press on the clutch pedal you are generating hundreds of psi, maybe over a 1000 I can't remember at the moment. With the seal leaking that pressure will end up in the dust boot if not allowed to vent.

Dirt, dust, water, (hygroscopic) and mixing incorrect fluids will damage the cup seal and piston seals, some will get very soft like gum rubber, others will get hard like plastic. If you rebuild, make sure to use a proper brake cylr hone or proper sand paper. This is critical depending on if the cylinder is made from aluminum for certain types of grit will imbed into the aluminum and destroy the piston and seals in short order.

Cheers,
GTM
 
Rebuilding your slave is like converting a N/T to a turbo.

It is easier and faster to just swap them out, plus they don't look dirty when you're done.

What GTM said is very correct and if you get sand in it, you'll end up having to buy a new one anyway (after you spent "x amount of time" trying to rebuild your old one). Also this was said before, usually the Master Cylinder goes out about the same time the Slave does, I suggest replacing both and fully flushing out the old fluid and putting in new fluid.
 
I remember a while back when I got mine from advanced auto I cleaned the old one up and put it in the box and took it back and just said that it still didn't work (I gave the new gold rod back and used my old rod with the new cylinder.) They gave me my $50 or whatever back and I drove around with my new slave cylinder haha... I don't remember why I did it but they hadto take it back because I had the reciept and they can't tell the differnce. Don't worry, No one hasto ruin the thread saying how wrong it was.
 
I guess Ill just go down and order the Master and Slave today. I was going to get a wideband soon, so ill just use that money for the 2. Thanks guys.
 
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