Many problems w/my 1G :(

[Pandagonier]

Here are several problems I'm having atm with my car. They are getting to be a headache and I'm getting to the point of selling the car.

The first problem is in 1st and 2nd gear I can not take it past 4k on the tach. The car jumps like made and sound like the engine blew or its going to die. I also have no boost in those gears. Now in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear I have boost, but it takes forever to build. Once I do get the boost up there around 20PSI the car jumps again and sounds like its going to blow or something. The whole boost problem just started. I was boosting fine at 25PSI until I was racing a 240sx down the highway and all boost just died. I found some boost leaks around the throttle body gaskets and replaced them. I didn't see/hear any more. But the boost problem is still happening.

I found an oil leak from what I thought was the oil return line of the turbo (bad leak). I didn't have a gasket on either end of the line and I put one at each end and I'm still leaking like a waterfall. Would that cause the boost problem? My oil return line must have a hole/gash in it because there is not oil dripping from the turbo anywhere I can see. I ordered a new stainless line form DS motorsports hoping this will solve the problem.

Now the idle problem. My car idles drastically anywhere from 700-4.5k rpms. I installed a new TPS, a used TSS and ISC. The car used to stall when shifting gears, but hasn't since those 3 parts. I tried to set the biss screw but it seems to be stripped or somehting and I cannot get the #$@*#@$ out. Any ideas on how to get it out would be great. I have a new one and o-ring for it. Also the ISC motors o-ring was shot and instead of getting a new one I siliconed it really good. Don't know if that will make a difference or not. I was thinking about blocking off the fiav, but here in Ohio it gets cold. The EGR is blocked off also.

I thought my fuel was causing an issue with the idle because of the 780cc injectors. I bought a dsm stage 3 chip, aeromotive fpr, and a s-afc (which is not tuned yet). It did seem to help the idle a but, but still did not fix it.

I would datalog my car, but the diagnostic port doesnt seem to like the cable. I bought another cable to make sure the cables were good. Would it hurt to splice the cable directly into the ports wires?

Any help on these frustrating problems would help greatly.

 

[sumenlo]

What is the life on your current turbo? Your boosting problems might be related to that. Take the intake pipe off the turbo and reach your fingers inside. See if there's any movement side to side on your turbo. Could be going bad, which is why it won't build any boost. Your oil leak might also have something to do with it. The turbo could possibly not be getting lubed enough and it's getting really hot.

 

[Pandagonier]

Its a new Big 16G, has less then 700 miles on it.

 

[JDP AWD 1g]

Here are several problems I'm having atm with my car. They are getting to be a headache and I'm getting to the point of selling the car.

The first problem is in 1st and 2nd gear I can not take it past 4k on the tach. The car jumps like made and sound like the engine blew or its going to die. I also have no boost in those gears. Now in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear I have boost, but it takes forever to build. Once I do get the boost up there around 20PSI the car jumps again and sounds like its going to blow or something. The whole boost problem just started. I was boosting fine at 25PSI until I was racing a 240sx down the highway and all boost just died. I found some boost leaks around the throttle body gaskets and replaced them. I didn't see/hear any more. But the boost problem is still happening.

^^^ i had similar problems, the 4k problem in first and 2nd may be due to a bad MAS. are you running mitshi, gm, or map sensor? as for the boost, check your EM (exhaust manifold), exhaust and o2 housings for any cracks chips or blistering.

 

[Pandagonier]

Running a hacked mitsu mas. As for the cracks and etc, I'll know in a few days. Im taking my turbo off to put all some new lins on it. I do know the turbine housing is cracked inside but it has never hurt the boost before, or at least I have never noticed it.

 

[ddavisaf]

During your boost leak test, how long are you holding 20 psi?

 

[Pandagonier]

Not to long, maybe 5 seconds or so.

 

[JDP AWD 1g]

sounds like a housing to me. also check your cuplers (sp?) and also your BOV. my buddies car leaks boost once full psi is reached, but you can literally hear it spraying out the BOV....it sounds and feels like a very bad blown cupler.

 

[Pandagonier]

###### a stupid question, but whats a cupler?

 

[JDP AWD 1g]

the cuplers (sp?) are the things that hold together your intercooler piping......

 

[Pandagonier]

I tightened them down as much as I could. I have the original rubber piping for the intercooler and I'm using the clamps with a screw that you tighten. I checked them all, they seem to be on the snug

 

[JDP AWD 1g]

sounds like your couplers are fine. check your BOV....make sure its still good.....also if your running the stock intercooler, check the intercooler as well.....ive found 3 stock intercoolers that ive pulled off cars this week, with lots of holes in the inlet and outlet ports of the core.

after you hold @ 20 psi and it drops can you hear it leaking out? do you let off? what happens if you dont let off?

 

[Pandagonier]

I'll check the bov and intercooler in a day or so. Right now, its like 28 degrees and snowing like mad out. The intercoler has about 1000 miles on it, but it is about 2 years old. The bov is still original as far as I know.

Also I was thinking about getting a 2g mas and throwing it in my 1g. I was thinking about buying a hard pipe for it, just not sure which one. Do I want one with a bov dump or no dump?

 

[JDP AWD 1g]

I'll check the bov and intercooler in a day or so. Right now, its like 28 degrees and snowing like mad out. The intercoler has about 1000 miles on it, but it is about 2 years old. The bov is still original as far as I know.

original ??? as in a stock 1g BOV ? right there is your problem, check your specs on the 1g BOV, if i remember correctly, they are rated for no more then 15 psi...anyone correct me on the specs...???? the 1gs are notorious for that kinda thing, which is the reason why people "crush" their 1g BOV's.....

Also I was thinking about getting a 2g mas and throwing it in my 1g. I was thinking about buying a hard pipe for it, just not sure which one. Do I want one with a bov dump or no dump?

^^^well you gotta understand if you threw on the 2g mas with no other upgrades the car is gonna run crappy. the typical 2g mas upgrade includes:

-2g mas
-550cc+ injectors
-255 HP fuel pump
-SAFC

im not sure what all mods you have done, but you may want to read up on this a little more, seeing as i remember you have some mods, im too lazy to look at this time, but you may wanna consider going to a 3" gm mas, with a maf translator.....

 

[Pandagonier]

Yea it's still the original bov from 1990 as far as I know, looks like hell to. Guess I'll get a new bov,recommend any that can hold 25psi solid?

And I do have the supporting mods for 2g mas:
-precision 780cc injectors
-walbro 255hp w/rewire
-apexi s-afcII

 

[JDP AWD 1g]

well you can try crushing the OEM BOV. thats what most people do until they are using a 3bar map sensor....at least around here. me, myself i dont like how quite and wussy the OEM BOV sounds, im a fan of the greddy type S BOV. that is more then capable of holding any psi you can throw at it. plus it looks all fancy under your hood

 

[Pandagonier]

update:

Ran a boost leak test again, still didn't hear/see anything. Ordered a 2g mas and new greddy bov, they both should be here today sometime.

Found the oil that was squirting from my turbo. Took the turbo off just to find out theres nothing wrong with the housing (except cracks on the inside of it). It was the OE oil return line which is new, it tore where the flex part of it is. Checked the turbo for shaft play, it seems to be fine for not having much oil.

Hopefully I get my car back together today (bah, I hate this cold weather) and can test to see if I actually have full boost and no jumping in the car =)

 

[ddavisaf]

How do you know your BOV was in fact the problem?
Spray soapy water on the intake track and try pin pointing the leaks that way.
Also, test from the TB elbow as well to see if you have leaks in the intake manifold and related areas.
You want to hold 20 psi for 30 seconds or more without it leaking out.
Stock 1G BOV's usually hold 15 psi no problem. After about 17-19 they may start leaking, they may not.
I've seen a stock 1G hold 24 psi without leaks uncrushed.

 

[JDP AWD 1g]

How do you know your BOV was in fact the problem?
Spray soapy water on the intake track and try pin pointing the leaks that way.
Also, test from the TB elbow as well to see if you have leaks in the intake manifold and related areas.
You want to hold 20 psi for 30 seconds or more without it leaking out.
Stock 1G BOV's usually hold 15 psi no problem. After about 17-19 they may start leaking, they may not.
I've seen a stock 1G hold 24 psi without leaks uncrushed.

not trying to cut down or anything.....but stock 1g BOV's holding 20+ psi comfortably without leaking and uncrushed is not a dime a dozen. its hardly ever seen.

 

[Pandagonier]

Put on the new stainless oil return line from DS Motorsports today and of course I'm still leaking. My car is from hell, it has to be. Nothing goes right with it, not a thing. I took a look and it seems to be leaking for the line again, up by the turbo. I might not have tighten the bolts down enough or the fitting. I'll ###### check tomorrow and take it off. Just way to cold out there to be out another minute in it.

Also got the 2g mas hoked up. 99% sure I hooked the wires up right. Now my car is ideling worse then before and wont even stay started. Any ideas on my that is?? I did take the throttle body off and clean it with brake cleaner. It was pretty bad went through 2 cans on it. I just hooked the old bov back up, not going to bother putting the greddy in until I can actually get it to stay started and stop leaking water like niagra falls.

 

[Pandagonier]

Ok, found one boost leak where the lower ic pipe connects to the ic. I still cant hold pressure long when testing. Any specific spots I should look at carefully for leaks? I did the soapy water trick and only seen that one spot.

After fixing that boost leak my car still will not stay started. Could I have crossed a wired or something with my installation of the 2g mas? Or is it I dont have the afc tuned yet?