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no electrical power at all

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drmotorsports

15+ Year Contributor
111
0
Nov 21, 2004
kenosha, Wisconsin
I'm having a problem with my 95 tsi awd. Its got an auto tranny. When i turn the ignition on nothing happens. No dummy lights or no power to anything. I just changed the battery terminals and then when i went to hook them back up i got nothing. I replaced the ground from the batt to the firewall and that didn't help. Any suggestions? And yes i searched.
 
Check all of your fuses first inc. (Alternator fuse, Motor fuse, Ignition fuse, ect.) You could also have a dead short, since you get power to absolutely nothing. Is your battery fully charged when you are doing this?
 
Yea the battery is fine. I tried like 3 different ones too. Checked all the fuses and even had a friend check them also to be sure they were OK.


update: Changed my ground wires and the dummy lights came on and dome lights worked. Then when I went to start it, it clicked then nothing happened. Now none of the lights or anything work. Gonna take the starter out tomorrow and have it checked. Any other suggestions?
 
So you heard the click and now there is no power. Did you check the fuses one more time after hearing this? It might just be the starter selenoid, so before you take it out try this. Put the car into neutral and turn the ignition to the on position. Then use a wire or needle-nosed pliers to link together the 2 positve terminals on the starter selenoid to complete the connection. If the car starts then you only need to replace the selenoid, if not then go ahead and take out the starter.
 
I would think that a good digital multimeter test would be the first thing I would do.
Get a base reading from the battery. Have someone try to start while you are reading and see if the voltage is holding above 9.7 volts. I like them to be above 11 volts. It does vary due to temp and the general condition of the battery and a few other variables. A fully charged battery at rest is 12.6 volts. At 9.7 almost all life ceases to exist in an automotive life. If it's holding, take a reading at the starter post. If it's bad, then check cables. If it's good, then it's likely the starter. Always use a voltmeter and refrain from guessing. I know from experience that can get you into trouble.

Good Luck
 
My car does this randomly sometimes, take a socket or other heavy wrench and tap on the terminals a little, top and sides. Then try again.


My terminals are new, but they seem to corrode from the inside very quickly, I got a new battery and terminals, the next day same problem came back.
 
Well i pulled out the starter(which was a pain in the ass), and got it tested. It tested well in spec so I'm once again confused on what it could be. I've narrowed it down to either the battery or a fuse. What do you guys think?
 
It's a ground. Re-check all the work over and make sure your grounds as well as your positive conections are clean. Make sure that the wires going to the starter are not grounding out anywhere where the connection is at. If you already cleaned and tightened down all grounds and you still have the same problem then try grounding a "extra" ground from the engine block to the chassis of the car. Before you start doing any of this thurally look at the fuses again, it never hurts to check twice.
 
Old Mitsu Tech said:
I would think that a good digital multimeter test would be the first thing I would do.
Get a base reading from the battery. Have someone try to start while you are reading and see if the voltage is holding above 9.7 volts. I like them to be above 11 volts. It does vary due to temp and the general condition of the battery and a few other variables. A fully charged battery at rest is 12.6 volts. At 9.7 almost all life ceases to exist in an automotive life. If it's holding, take a reading at the starter post. If it's bad, then check cables. If it's good, then it's likely the starter. Always use a voltmeter and refrain from guessing. I know from experience that can get you into trouble.

Good Luck
Did you get a multi-meter and check any of the stuff mentioned above? We can help you spend lots of money by guessing at stuff or you can spend a little money on diagnostic equipment and take the time to diagnose it properly.
Doug
 
Well guys i am offically an idiot....It turned out to be the battery.. Sears sold me a bad optima so thats why i ruled out the battery.... Thanks to all your help rep points for all!!!!
 
Just for future reference. NEW. Stands for Never Ever Worked before. There's no history and remember it can be bad right off the shelf.

Glad you got it fixed.
 
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