Auto trans install tips on 2g

m1nd64m3 · 01-12-2006, 02:10 PM

I cannot get my trans to bolt up to the motor no matter what I do. Im having alot of problems with the studs on the passenger side mount, one of the bolt hole ears coming in contact with the water pipe, and the thing weighs a ton so manouvering it around with a jack is only making it more difficult. If anyone has done this please chime in with some tips on how to make this work easier.

Right now I have the rear mount removed entierely so the speed sensor doesnt break when I am trying to position it and the front mount is still connected to the subframe. The subframe is under the transmission when I try and put it in place so that I can bolt it up quickly when the trans is in the right place.

The water pipe is unbolted and moved to the side so that it will stop interfering, so my biggest difficulty now is the studs. I looked at the mount where the studs go and it looks like there is no way to remove the mount because the bolt would come in contact with the battery support thing.

Old Mitsu Tech · 01-12-2006, 06:42 PM

If it came out, it will go back. No one ever said it was easy. Just be careful and don't bend/break anything. Make sure the torque converter is back in the bell housing or you will be the lucky recipient of a bill for a new front pump and or torque converter.

Just gently jockey it around. It will go back in.

Good Luck

spyder97gs · 01-12-2006, 07:24 PM

Yes just as he said, it will take a bit of struggle and tugging and pulling and pushing to get it to go on just right. Don't give up!

m1nd64m3 · 01-13-2006, 09:59 AM

I got it back on. I didnt know that battery tray thing came out, I always thought it was a welded part of the body. Once I got that out I pulled the passenger side mount out and that fixed the problem with the studs. Then the only other difficulty I had was the engine was hanging too low so I had to use a jack under the engine and the transmission till they were the right height and they went together easily.

spyder97gs · 01-13-2006, 10:02 AM

Good job. Did you get the battery tray back together? I STILL haven't gotten mine back together from my engine/5spd swap. If you care to enlighten me, go ahead.

m1nd64m3 · 01-13-2006, 12:44 PM

What I am talking about is the arm that is bolted to the body. I always thought it was welded in place because I have looked for bolts before an never found them. I guess I had just been looking in the wrong place in the past. I havnt put it all back together but Im pretty sure there is 2 bolts for the bottom that attaches to body, then 3 bolts maybe that attaches a plate to that bottom section and then the tray which sits loose and then the tie down.

spyder97gs · 01-13-2006, 12:52 PM

Hmm alright. Well I have the arm on there, with one bolt. I don't have anything else on, I just have the battery sitting on that arm and the tranny mount. It holds but it would be nice to have it back together correctly.

m1nd64m3 · 01-13-2006, 03:22 PM

I hope your not driving around like that.

m1nd64m3 · 01-13-2006, 03:26 PM

You did a auto to 5speed swap? I was think of doing that instead of getting a new flexplate but for time reasons I decided not to. But I hope to do it during summer.

How hard would you say the trans portion of your swap was? My main concern after reasearching it is the pedals and slave cylinder installs.

spyder97gs · 01-13-2006, 04:33 PM

Honestly it was a peice of cake. If you can pull the trans and replace it, you would have no problems whatsoever. Cutting the holes for the pedals are the most difficult, and if you have access to a 90 degree drill, or right angle drill, they can be cut out in about 5 minutes.

Oh, and I have been driving with the battery tray like that for 7-8 months now, but it is safe to drive it. It's got enough support to hold steady.