ODBII 96+ inspection failing lots of tests. probably an easy answer..

[Korndogg]

hey guys

since i bought my car, it has failedtoo many of these tests to pass.. but there is a shop around that doesn't seem to care and always passes me... but i don't think that will last forever and i need to figure out how to get these issues resolved sooner or later. soo, this is what i'm failing...

catalyst (...test pipe... no questions there)
Evap (what is this? gas evap bs?)
EGR
O2 sensor (...i dunno why this failed.. they're both brand new OEM)
O2 heater (?? is this for the o2 sensors? caues again, both brand new when i got inspected)


anyone have any thoughts on why i'm failing all of this? i know that my purge control solenoid is going bad.. it ticks really loud so i know i need to replace that... could that be causeing the evap failure? how about EGR? o2?

thanks guys


p.s.
my car was 100% stock when i bought it.. and i was failing all of that (with the exception of the cat.. can't remember) when i bought it... so don't blame mods!

 

[SlowSpyder]

no cat will throw a code because the 2nd o2 sensor isnt detecting any changes. Just beacuse you have new o2 sensors doesnt mean they are working properly. If there is something wrong with the o2 heater circuit(we have heated o2 sensors) the o2 sensor will not funtion right no matter how many new o2 sensors you put in

 

[Korndogg]

no CEL just so you know

good point on the heater circuit... is the front o2 sensor really heated too? seems unnecessary

thanks for the reply

 

[akdsmer]

Korndog,

I sounds like your vehicle is not failing a test, it just isn't ready to be tested because the OBDII monitors have not set (your state may decide a few of these "not ready" test equal a failure). Each individual monitor checks it's stated circuit. The Monitors are either complete/done/ready/set- not complete/not done/not ready/not set- or not supported.

Let us know what the monitor status really is. There might have been a conversation that you could find on this sight! This is a pretty common problem for many vehicles.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1622721&postcount=108

 

[Korndogg]

thanks for the reply

yes, the failed ones are marked "not ready"...

but i don't think i followed you 100%.. how do i test to see the monitor status? i should see if my logger can do it.. obd-2.com's logger...

i'm not sure what i can do to resolve the issue... are you saying that often when you start the car it drops below 10V even on a good battery which resets everything? i can see how this would be a problem, but i don't see what the solution would be?

thanks for the help

 

[akdsmer]

but i don't think i followed you 100%.. how do i test to see the monitor status? i should see if my logger can do it.. obd-2.com logger...

I am not sure of which logger you have.....the Autotap scan tool? Most scan tools will read the OBDII monitor readiness status in generic mode. It is almost never in manufacturer's specific mode.

i'm not sure what i can do to resolve the issue... are you saying that often when you start the car it drops below 10V even on a good battery which resets everything? i can see how this would be a problem, but i don't see what the solution would be?

Not exactly. I am saying that if there is something wrong (bad battery, bad starter, voltage drops) then the battery voltage MAY drop below 10V. If that happens (and the exact voltage level varies) the PCM will reset and the monitors will also reset back to NOT READY even if they were set. On the Mitsubishi and many other vehicles to run the drivecycle (which is the driving conditions that are needed to be driven so the PCM may test all the monitor systems) you will need to run TWO drivecycles. You drive it once. You then stop and let the vehicle idle for 5 minutes You have now run all the monitors and internally they are set. You will have to run this drivecycle again to make them read READY on the scan tool or I/M analyzer. You then turn the vehicle off for 10 seconds and then rerun the entire drivecycle. Now IF you had a bad battery, bad starter, voltage drop going to the PCM etc, at the moment you restart the car, you COULD cause the voltage to drop below the reset voltage and now you start all over again. This would be a never ending cycle that would never reset the monitors.

To make this determination properly takes a labscope and an amp clamp. To do it the easy way you can simply buy/borrow/beg a portable battery jump-box and use it every time you restart the car. I have verified that a new battery will allow the monitors to set on many cars using this test..(man I hate giving out my secrets! ).

The drivecycle isn't as user friendly as many vehicles, and you may have to do this multiple times to get the monitors to set. Also, you really need an open road to do this and not at rush hour. I am constantly slowing down and then driving at different speeds per the drivecycle and any stopping can make you restart that portion of the drivecycle. The road should also be flat to keep all the sensor data within the manufacturer's specification.

There is a good amount of information on the OBDII.Com's website. And I'm on the forum there as well.