Problem starting and CEL

[jwahl425]

I have a 91 mitsubishi eclipse that I just replaced the engine and many other parts, It's having trouble starting, I've searched but couldn't find out why my car won't start, it used to take a long time to start but now it won't start at all, it turns great at 25o rpm's but it doesn't fire, the knock sensor isn't hooked up, and neither are the vacuum lines,could this be the problem? thanks in advance for your help.

 

[Froyd79]

I get a check engine light w/ the knock not connected. But I would check for spark and fuel first. And is your mass air plugged in?

 

[Froyd79]

Get that vacuum hooked up!

 

[jwahl425]

ok, i'll check spark, but how should I check fuel?

 

[jwahl425]

I have two knock sensors, but there is only one wire coming from both of the sensors and there are two on the plug, I might just but another one, and i bought a haynes manual and so far all I have hooked up is the fuel pressure solenoid, I seem to be missing one of the solenoids to. I have also hooked up the wastegate-bov-mass-bwastegate solenoid. earlier today, it took me two minutes of cranking to get her started, I turned it off to tighten a alternator belt and it wouldn't start back up, It cranks fine it's just missing fuel or something, I just replaced the fuel tank and two of the lines under the car, and ther are no more leaks but how do I check to see if it fuel has pressure? thanks again for your help.

 

[akdsmer]

The best way to check fuel pressure is to remove the top banjo bolt in the fuel filter and replace with a banjo with a built in shrader valve. Install gauge and note reading. It will be around 36-38 psi if you have good fuel pressure.

Or you can use this ~helpful~ information:

"FOOL PRESSURE CHART"
(For those who refuse to use a pressure gauge)

Due to the fact that most technicians do not want to take the time to
correctly test the fuel pressure, we have developed the following...

With the engine running, either push the schrader valve in or loosen the
fuel line THEN IF:

Fuel does not come out of the test area... Pressure is approx 0 psi
Fuel hits the hood insulation... Pressure is 5 - 8 psi
Fuel squirts over the fender... Pressure is 10-15 psi
Fuel splashes off the fender onto the hood insulation and into the next repair bay... Pressure is 25-30 psi
Fuel squirts to the garage roof, all over the car, including the shop owner... Pressure is 30-50 psi

Don't be a FOOL...use a Fuel Pressure Gauge!

(courtesy of linder technical services)

 

[akdsmer]

Just kidding, please don't try that at home!

Don't try this as well:

IGNITION VOLTAGE OUTPUT TEST

Scopes may be inaccessible from time to time, so we at "Bubba's Garage"
have come up with this here test for Ignition Output:

Hold medium wrench in one hand, Sears wrench preferred for accuracy
of test 'cause other smooth wrenches are too slick for throwin'!

With engine runnin', grab hold of the plug end of an ignition cable with the other hand
and hold on tight!

This will more than likely cause you to throw wrench! KV output is based on how far
the wrench wuz thrown!

10 feet =
approx. 10,000 volts
20 feet =
approx. 15,000 volts
30 feet =
approx. 25,000 volts
Over 30 feet =
Caution! Must be one of them new
dis-is-it ignition systems, use bigger
wrench and retest.

Seriously though, let us know what you find fuel, spark or otherwise so we can help out!

 

[jwahl425]

thanks guys, i appreciae this.

 

[jwahl425]

ok, fuel-good
spark-yes
all plugs and sensors connected-yes
i found a valet remote start system in the car and I figured pulling it would fixthe problem-nothing. so I pulled the ECU and checked it, looked fine, finished uninstalling remote start, replaced ECU and it started, the alternator belt was screaming bloody murder so I shut off the car and tightened it up a bit, tried to start it up but all it did was rotate, do you guys think something electrical is wrong? if so, what? thanks, James.