Need Some Help Beyond Annoyed!!!

[CYrUs0k5]

Car keeps draining battery.... Wont start....

Ive done it all... charged it, swapped it, jump started it... everything. As soon as i get it in and it starts to crank all the power from the battery dies. and then it stops cranking starts clicking.

Ive pulled fuses to everything in the car to make sure they arent interferring with the exception of the stuff it needs to run, same result.

Ive tried another ecu, no help.

Car does have spark when it will crank and i think fuel.

Im leaning twoards the alarm having something to do with it. When i bought the car the kid had some stupid alarm put it in it with autostart. I tried to figure the autostart out the day i bought it and couldnt and havent touched it since. i dont know a single thing about alarms... had a friend come over to look but we couldnt do much as the battery continues to die.

He has some charger that is better than mine, it continues to give the battery as much enegery as it needs off the wall....


anyone know whats going on?!?!?!

 

[huafist]

Change your post terminals on your wiring harness and clean the battery terminals. I had the *EXACT* same problem. A fresh battery started the car like twice then it was too dead to start the car. It would actually kill all power to the car. Swapping the terminals fixed it.

 

[luv2rallye]

Starter not engaging possibility:

If it's not your battery, starter relay, or starter, another possibility is poor cable connections from the battery to the starter. I'm talking the big cables. The ends can get corroded, dirty, not tight, or partially broken (inside) where the cable meets the terminal. If there is even 0.1 ohm resistance in the path from battery to starter, it will drop so much voltage when you crank that there won't be enough voltage left on the starter (needs to be more than 8 volts at the starter). Remove and clean both ends of these cables and battery posts and secure tightly. Do both the battery positive to the starter and battery negative to engine (connection to engine must also be clean/tight). Also try wiggling them to check for breaks. After doing this if you measure the voltage across the starter itself while cranking and it's less than across the battery posts themselves (while cranking), one of the cables is your problem and needs to be replaced. You can measure the voltage drop across each cable while cranking to find out which - should be close to zero. Or you can connect a jumper cable from battery negative to engine block. If it now cranks your negative cable/connection is bad.

If not this then it sounds like you have a short.

To find a short, first disconnect the obvious devices (eg. taillights if blowing taillight fuse) to see if fuse still blows. Also try disconnecting everything that is or may be on that fuse’s circuit or anything suspicious or recently worked on that’s electrical. Disconnect anything electrical that doesn’t work. Examine the wiring and connectors on the things you disconnect to see if they are frayed, broken, melted, wet, or touching other wires or metal. 95% of the time you will find the short this way (which is also the quickest). If you have very weird symptoms (eg. headlights never go off, or turning on one thing causes something else to happen that shouldn’t), try unbolting the engine fuse box and examine the cluster of wires underneath. Some may be melted, broken, or shorting against others.

If it still blows you will have to use a tougher technique. Replace the fuse that blows (temporarily and only for testing purposes) with an actual small 12 volt light bulb like a automotive tester light, marker light, or license plate light (don't try to start the engine with it in). The bulb will limit the current so you now don’t have to worry about any short melting the wires. If you don’t have a tester light you may have to solder wires on a bulb or put a bulb in a socket with wires. Then insert the wires into the slots where the fuse was. If there is a short, it will lite brightly (no short may lite it half bright along with a device doing the other half, or it may not lite at all). Then start disconnecting one at a time (1) things that don’t work, (2) suspected things, and (3) anything on that circuit. When you disconnect the item that is causing the short, the light will go out (so it's a great detection device). Keep in mind the short may be in the wiring or fuse box which is harder to find, but first check all the easier, more obvious devices and places.

Here is also a helpful link: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=54846