Blowby caused oil to splash on alternator..

[Trizon]

Well, the pressure built up on my dipstick, and blowby caused it to pop out spraying oil everywhere... Lately, while driving the car, I've noticed the lights on the gauge cluster (the radiator/battery) have lit up, and selectively decide to go down when they wish.. Im running on big injectors/fuel pump, and need to drop my car off to have my AFC reinstalled, in the mean time the car is running really rich but moderated with my AFPR. The reason I mentioned that was, when I come to a complete stop, the car buckles down in lower 600 rpms, and acts as if it wants to stall, then catches back up and kicks up to 650 - 700. The lights however, for the battery and radiator stay on. My water is fine, as is my battery. I dont know if the problems are related, but my guess is the oil could damage my alternator ? (which would be bad news seeing that I just got it), and possibly while the car is idling, it wants to stall out due to being too rich?, any advice would be appreciated, thanks

 

[oldman]

Several things come to mind after reading reading your car profile that may cause a rich condition, if that is your problem. (How did you determine your car is running rich at idle)

1. I didn't see a AFPR but you mentioned it in your post, what is your base setting?

2. Make sure you're not venting.

3. You mentioned reinstalling safc, why? Problems? Are you running the 550s without the safc now? I didn't see a logger in the profile, how are you tuning?

4. Boost leaking into crank case through the turbo seals, pcv or valve seals causing excessive crank case pressure and a boost leak condition.

5. Bad piston rings -> bad compression -> crank case pressure -> unburnt fuel

I would pay more attention to 4 & 5 since you seem to have excessive crank case pressure. Hope that helped.

 

[Trizon]

to be honest, i dont know what my base setting is, i just had someone install it a few days ago, my bov is recirculating, I have 550s, I had an SAFC installed, but some idiot electrician decided to cut it and now I must have it reinstalled. I'll do a new compression check to find out, what should it be at idle?

If anyone however can help me with this specific problem itd be greatly appreciated. While driving tonight, i've noticed my cluster battery, radiator, and brake dim on, and as i come down in RPMs, the lights tend to go away. If i'm heavy on the throttle, they have a strong glow. The reason I ask this is because i've just recently gotten a new alternator. I'm afraid the oil on the blowby might have created issues with this alternator. The problem is, I figured if that was the problem, wouldnt the lights stay on the whole time as opposed to not when I come off the throttle and rpms decrease? Help is appreciated, and thank you for your first response

 

[oldman]

to be honest, i dont know what my base setting is, i just had someone install it a few days ago, my bov is recirculating, I have 550s, I had an SAFC installed, but some idiot electrician decided to cut it and now I must have it reinstalled. I'll do a new compression check to find out, what should it be at idle?

If anyone however can help me with this specific problem itd be greatly appreciated. While driving tonight, i've noticed my cluster battery, radiator, and brake dim on, and as i come down in RPMs, the lights tend to go away. If i'm heavy on the throttle, they have a strong glow. The reason I ask this is because i've just recently gotten a new alternator. I'm afraid the oil on the blowby might have created issues with this alternator. The problem is, I figured if that was the problem, wouldnt the lights stay on the whole time as opposed to not when I come off the throttle and rpms decrease? Help is appreciated, and thank you for your first response

1. Base pressure for 2g is 35 psi. Install a gauge and set your pressure correctly described towards the end of the article here. http://www.vfaq.com/mods/FPR.html

2. You do not perform the compression test with the car on. http://www.dsmgrrrl.com/FAQs/compression.htm

3. Oil will damage the coil inside the alternator over time, take the car to autozone and ask them to test it for you.

 

[star1469]

Well, that pretty much confirms it for me too then. Had the exact same blow by scenario happen a couple times... oil puked everywhere out of the dip stick tube... including into the alternator. The first time I was at home so I used some engine degreaser to clean the oil mess right away. The second time it popped out however, I was on the highway heading to Cali from Seattle and didn't have access to engine degreaser or a hose... 1 week later, battery, brake and coolant lights are on... a sure sign of a malfunctioning charging system. Tested alternator...it's fried. Dammit, I shoulda got the $15 dipstick with the new rubber grommet that would have prevented it from popping out in the first place. Now, a $15 - 30 second remedy has turned into a $150 3hr pain in the ass.

I highly recommend that if your DSM has over 100k you get a new dipstick, the rubber grommets wear out after a while and they no longer make a tight fit. The new one will fit nice and snug and won't pop out of the tube when blow-by occurs. Just a suggestion that might save you the hassle of having oil shoot every where and create worse problems as a side effect.