Car Probs. HELP!! (valve cover)

[talontsi02]

ok heres the thing.. i was bored one day and decided to paint my valve cover.. so i took it off.. cleaned it.. painted it.. put it back on and then drove it it was SLOW and whenever i pushed it more then normal driving it lacked power.. then id push in the clutch and it would die.. but when i drove it normally without pushing it, it wouldnt die.. when i took it back home i realized i cracked the valve cover due to lazyness and not paying attention to torque specs. (oopsy) so then i jbwelded it and it stopped leaking oil.. but then now i have a clunking noise at around 3rpm.. and i still have a complete loss of power.. ive checked all possible "simple" solutions i believe.. but the car is getting slowly worse and wants to keep dying.. i unplugged the battery for about 5min to reset the ecu and then tried to start it and it wouldnt even hold an idle till about 1min later of me holding the gas.. i have no clue what the hell i did but im pissed that i somehow ####ed up my car just by wanting a different color valve cover.. someone please help.. im completely ####ing lost other then going to buy another valve cover.. thanks..

 

[GTM]

...
) so then i jbwelded it and it stopped leaking oil.. but then now i have a clunking noise at around 3rpm.. and i still have a complete loss of power.. ive checked all possible "simple" solutions

How much oil did you loose?

My greatest worry is the rod and/or main bearings got ruined by it running low on oil.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[talontsi02]

its not that low on oil.. i just checked it a little while ago and filled it back up.. tomorrow im going to get a new valve cover probably from pick-a-part then a new gasket and hopefully that will work out.. any other ideas before i spend any more money?

 

[FireyIce01]

I'm just going to ask the stupid questions... did you make sure all the plug wires got put on the right plugs? did you disconnect any other wires when/vac lines while doing this project? Did you hook them all back up properly? Those are just some ideas I can come up with...

 

[TsiNoob]

Sounds like you may have not put the plugs back on right or you may have ripped a wire inside the insulation Try the new cover since a cracked one is no good. And while your at it look online for a wire diagram for the plugs coming from the coil.

There should have only been 2 lines. PCV valve which is located at the top and one coming in to the side perpendicular to the pcv valve. Heres a pic dont know if its much help.

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[talontsi02]

yes i have hooked all the hoses up again.. and ive also marked the spark plug wires with a perm. marker to make sure of that mistake just incase.. but i will recheck the wiring diagram for it now just to make sure.. the pcv valve however.. makes a rattling noise when i shake it.. i dont ever remember this happening before.. is this normal or what? if someone can just tell me if it is supposed to do that it would be a big help.. it takes a 14mm to get it off im on my way to pickapart now to get a new valve cover then going to get a gasket.. is it possible my timing jumped? oh yea.. my wires are fine also so its not that.. thank you very much everyone so far..

 

[boosteddsm]

yes i have hooked all the hoses up again.. and ive also marked the spark plug wires with a perm. marker to make sure of that mistake just incase.. but i will recheck the wiring diagram for it now just to make sure.. the pcv valve however.. makes a rattling noise when i shake it.. i dont ever remember this happening before.. is this normal or what? if someone can just tell me if it is supposed to do that it would be a big help.. it takes a 14mm to get it off im on my way to pickapart now to get a new valve cover then going to get a gasket.. is it possible my timing jumped? oh yea.. my wires are fine also so its not that.. thank you very much everyone so far..

Your PCV is fine. I don't know how taking off your VC would make the timing jump but you can always check it. Using a 1/2" extension and a ratchet on the crank pulley, turn it clockwise so that the cam gears line up w/the dowels sticking up and the two marked places on the gears are directly across from each other. Then check your crank pulley and see if all is good.

 

[oldman]

I have a question and I think this would be the best place to ask. I've read many threads including this one which hinted that a crack VC causes idle issues. However, if you vent your crank case pressure to a catch can, isn't that the same as having a crack VC? Can some one explain to me why a crack VC is so bad besides the slight oil leak. Thanks.

 

[talontsi02]

Your PCV is fine. I don't know how taking off your VC would make the timing jump but you can always check it. Using a 1/2" extension and a ratchet on the crank pulley, turn it clockwise so that the cam gears line up w/the dowels sticking up and the two marked places on the gears are directly across from each other. Then check your crank pulley and see if all is good.

i just noticed that my timing belt was loose between the 2 gears.. and i just went to pickapart and found a valvecover for 14.90 goodstuff.. ok thanks boosteddsm and everyone else for helping.. im going to mess with the timing belt now to slip it back a notch.. thank you all again for all your help..

 

[huafist]

i just noticed that my timing belt was loose between the 2 gears.. and i just went to pickapart and found a valvecover for 14.90 goodstuff.. ok thanks boosteddsm and everyone else for helping.. im going to mess with the timing belt now to slip it back a notch.. thank you all again for all your help..

NOOOO
Research before you play with your timing belt at ALL! It's NORMAL for there to be slack between the cam gears when the engine isn't running, it happens because the cams can't stop in the exact same spot every time due to the lobes on the cams. If your timing marks line up don't fool with it.

 

[talontsi02]

NOOOO
Research before you play with your timing belt at ALL! It's NORMAL for there to be slack between the cam gears when the engine isn't running, it happens because the cams can't stop in the exact same spot every time due to the lobes on the cams. If your timing marks line up don't fool with it.

just looked and timing marks dont line up.. what is the easiest way to line them up without taking off the whole belt or whatever???

 

[Tsi_User]

check VFAQ for exact instructions, but there is a pulley that you can access through the wheel well on the driver's side front tire. With the engine off you can turn the pulley until it comes to TDC (look at the mark on the lower timing belt cover) and make sure the notches on the cam gears match up correctly (2 notches should face each other at an even angle to the valve cover). Sorry if this sounds confusing, kinda hard to explain but check out vfaq.com on how to change a timing belt and it'll show you everything you need to know about making sure the timing is correct.

 

[GTM]

just looked and timing marks dont line up.. what is the easiest way to line them up without taking off the whole belt or whatever???

If you are good you can make a wooden wedge shaped a bit like a comma from plywood. Tie a piece of coat hanger wire around a notch you have made around the top. Leave 6"-10" of wire free at the top to pull the wood out when you are done. Get as much belt slack as you can between the cams, pull up on the slack side and push your wedge between the tensioner and idler pulley. It needs to be tight but don't drive it in with a hammer, this traps the belt from moving. Use nail polish and mark belt and cogs where they are, then determine which way you need to go, slowly slip the belt working a little at a time to the edge of both cams. Use some finger clamps to hold the belt on the intake so it doesn't loose registration. Now you can slip the exhaust off move the cam to the proper index and reinstall the belt. You will start where the belt first contacts the cogged cam drive and introduce a little at a time until you get the belt back on.

It's harder to do the intake but it can be done. When you get the belt where it's firmly locked into the cogs you can rotate the engine a little at a time to work the belt so it's engaging all the coggs. You may need to loosen your wedge a bit so you can rotate. Once it's on you can pull the wedge and rotate the engine by hand a few times ant then check your timing. If you get into trouble pop the cam followers this way you cannot foul valves, you can always put them back when the lobes are facing up. It does require thinking which way you need to lead the cams, you may need to use Vise Grips to keep the cam from rotating while you are working with the belt.

Any questions?

Cheers,
GTM

 

[FireyIce01]

I haven't had the pleasure of doing a timing belt just yet... (motor's still lacking other parts...) however, when I checked my alldata, it says to use 1" binder clips (big black paperclips), first clipping the belt onto one of the timing gears, and then stretching it across to the other gear and clipping the belt to that gear, then hooking up the tensioner and everything else... I'm not home right now, but I'll try and get the pictures tomorrow...

 

[talontsi02]

I haven't had the pleasure of doing a timing belt just yet... (motor's still lacking other parts...) however, when I checked my alldata, it says to use 1" binder clips (big black paperclips), first clipping the belt onto one of the timing gears, and then stretching it across to the other gear and clipping the belt to that gear, then hooking up the tensioner and everything else... I'm not home right now, but I'll try and get the pictures tomorrow...

ok cool.. yea i've heard of that.. i have a friend coming over tomorrow that has done timing on his 2g dsm 20+ times so im sure he'll have everything up and running in about 15min.. thanks everyone.. i'll update tomorrow night.. hopefully it will be one about my car running again..

 

[GTM]

ok cool.. yea i've heard of that.. i have a friend coming over tomorrow that has done timing on his 2g dsm 20+ times so im sure he'll have everything up and running in about 15min.. thanks everyone.. i'll update tomorrow night.. hopefully it will be one about my car running again..

I couldn't think of the name "binder" clips, I've used safe jaw Vice Grips and anything else I could find including clothes pins in a pinch (pun).

For goodness sakes it's your car and you should get to say how much care needs to be taken to make sure you don't bump valves. If there is any doubt at any time pop the cam followers out. Use an open end wrench which will just support the socket of the hydraulac lifter lash adjuster and pry upwards and to the side. If you are indexed on #1 then #4 will be on the rock, this will be your only concern to not lift so high that the valves touch the pistons. You can take them out of the valve hat as well but easier from the lash adjuster side.

Good luck,
GTM