Need help cant figure this one out???

[Skunked tsi]

To give a little background my car had been running really well before I missed a shift it went from 90 in third to 2nd by accident of course, it reved to 9k+ not sure the exact rpm but it was only for a millasecond. Well like I said before the card had a pretty good tune and been running real well before this happend. After the fact of course it has been running horrible the first thing that came to mind was i floated a valve seeing how the car still shifted fine etc.. so I knew it was not drivetrain related. After checking compresion and finding 180 across the board that eliminated a valve issue. There are no new noises at all and base timing is at 5 like it should be, I have checked for boost leaks found one fixed it, resest the ecu and yet the problem presists. So now for what its doing the car boosts fine but once you get full boost at about 3k the rpms climb very slowly like it is getting no timing what so ever then it starts to buck like a boost leak or something and it is just dog slow. Mind you this is on the same tune it was on before this incident. After eliminating the things I thought I could have broken/messed up I have yet to isolate the problem other then my timing issue what could be causing my problem that I am overlooking please help.
Tyler

 

[huafist]

Are you seeing any knock?

 

[ACKERSON]

I did the same thing once and it turned out I had skipped a few teeth on the t-belt and I also had a broken valvespring. hope that helps

 

[Skunked tsi]

Yes Iam seeing alot of knock where as with the same tune i never got a hint of knock.. Which is what bewilders me no matter how much fuel i add it just knocks. It is the most obsurd problem I have encountered.
tyler

 

[GTM]

...
After checking compresion and finding 180 across the board that eliminated a valve issue.
...
After eliminating the things I thought I could have broken/messed up I have yet to isolate the problem other then my timing issue what could be causing my problem that I am overlooking please help.
Tyler

Did you replace the plugs, could try a good used set if you keep those around. But I'd really like to see you check the cam timing. It's possible to jump 1 cog without bouncing valves or adversly affect a compression check.

After that perhaps CAS or Crank sensor couldn't handle the rpm.

Keep us posted on what you find.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[Skunked tsi]

Well today I checked the timing lined up all the marks and it is dead on. The plugs are good how would I test the crabk angle sensor or is the only way to find out is by replacing it. Also I get an ungodly amount of knock that will not go away no matter how much fuel i add. Also it takes about 30 seconds of cranking for it to fire up in the morning or if its been sitting longer then 20 minutes as to where it used to fire on the first crank.
Tyler

 

[GTM]

Well today I checked the timing lined up all the marks and it is dead on. The plugs are good how would I test the crabk angle sensor or is the only way to find out is by replacing it. Also I get an ungodly amount of knock that will not go away no matter how much fuel i add. Also it takes about 30 seconds of cranking for it to fire up in the morning or if its been sitting longer then 20 minutes as to where it used to fire on the first crank.
Tyler

I am quite confused, in your original post you state: "There are no new noises at all ~" and now you have a knock and don't know what it is... I'm digging through the gray matter accepting your statement that you DO NOT have engine damage

If it's a rod that's about to poke a hole out the side of your engine I would stop driving the car until you figure it out.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[Skunked tsi]

There arent any apparent noise's while I am logging at 3k an assload of knock shows up no matter how much fuel I throw at it. Iam starting to think its something internal in the bottom end of the motor more and more each day. I cant really stop driving it persay it is what gets me back and forth to work each day. I am picking up a 6bolt block on saturday that I was going to build up slowly but now it looks like that will be going in sooner then later. Also I just wanted to find a temporary fix or find the problem to get me by until the 6bolt is done. This problem is really annoying as you can imagine.
Thanks for the help,
Tyler

 

[GTM]

...
This problem is really annoying as you can imagine.
Thanks for the help,
Tyler

I can toss out some more things but what I think you should really do is go to a dealership and have someone ride around the block with you. You don't need to tell them what happened, just see what a professional who can hear it thinks. We can go round and round with this and may or may not be right. It's a noise, it's a knock from the engine and that needs an EAR. You won't be well served if it breaks the crank, block, rod and takes out 4 valves while saving yourself $20-$30 for around the block.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[Skunked tsi]

I have already done this he told me that it feels like it is not gettinig any timing advance which we all know is because of the large amounts of knock which is retarding it. I have dsmlink so I will turn the knock sensor off and see if it pulls like it should. Then I will replace the knock sensor if that doesnt fix the problem then I know it is something internally in the bottom end bent rod thurst bearing whatever it may be Iam unsure.
I will be sure to let you know the final outcome. Also thanks alot for your advice it is greatly appreciated.
Tyler

 

[huafist]

I have already done this he told me that it feels like it is not gettinig any timing advance which we all know is because of the large amounts of knock which is retarding it. I have dsmlink so I will turn the knock sensor off and see if it pulls like it should. Then I will replace the knock sensor if that doesnt fix the problem then I know it is something internally in the bottom end bent rod thurst bearing whatever it may be Iam unsure.
I will be sure to let you know the final outcome. Also thanks alot for your advice it is greatly appreciated.
Tyler

I wouldn't advise turning the knock sensor off. You're gonna blow what's left of your engine into oblivion. If it was fine, you revved it to 9k (regardless of accident or not and how quick it was), and it started doing this, you YOU HAVE A PROBLEM. Turning the knock sensor off won't fix it. It'll pull better sure, 'cause it's not pulling timing, but it'll self-destruct.

 

[GTM]

I have already done this he told me that it feels like it is not gettinig any timing advance which we all know is because of the large amounts of knock which is retarding it.
...

Gee sorry to hear, that's not very confidence building... hopefully they didn't charge you for that opinion.

Yegads and little fishies.

You need a 2' long wooden dowel, for this I like 3/8" or a mechanic's stethoscope and lastly a long screwdriver to probe different parts of the engine while it's running. One end is pressed against your ear, the hard cartilage part will work. Wonderful cacophony of sounds but not for vacuum leaks. Probe different parts of the block and head, don't bump motive parts for it will scare you out of your witts if not hurt you. Try to find the the main bearing webbing which extends from the crank to outside of block and transmit main bearings sounds best. Ever so slightly press on accelerator cable or twist the throttle quadrent slightly but briskly (huh what did he say). This is the time when you will hear rod knock or main bearing knock, the rod bearing knock will be in the 2,000+ and the main bearing will be in the 2,000- rpm range. Rods will be more crisp and higher frequency and mains will be lower like from the gut. When driving the mains knock will be heard sooner than the rods as the engine accelerates. This isn't in any textbook it comes from years of experience, it's not voodoo you just need to know the differences. It may be folly to think I can teach this over the internet but it is valid but you need to have your ears on and listening for unique sounds while filtering out 10,000 others.

Maybe you saw the commercial for a phone commercial of a pin drop and an engine running... the phone is quality is probably bs the pin is true. These are the tools of a professional mechanic, I've beeen ridiculed and insulted like it was a water witch. As a frustrated incompetent musician I can tell the difference between a viola and a violin. I've nothing to sell, I allow others to promote their products. Best advice is drive car with least possible noise.

Cheers,
GTM