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xTSIx

15+ Year Contributor
78
0
Nov 29, 2004
Mifflinburg, Pennsylvania
For prolly the past 2 months now my car has been acting very odd. It used to boost at 16 PSI and now it ranges from 10 all the way down to 3. For awhile now when it builds boost it may go to 10 but then drop to 6 and the car jerks really bad. id like to know what that is. Also, my car for the past like 3 weeks has been reading HOT on the temp gauge and yesterday i replaced the thermostat and it went back to normal. Well tonight i was going down the road and it was on HOT again. I pulled over and checked to see if it was actually hot and it didnt seem so. I wasn't gonna chance driving back to college an hour away like that so i headed home and about 3 blocks from my house it shut off. Steam came out under the hood like whoa. I popped the hood and a coolant line had busted so i fixed it quick and started the car. It ran worse than ever. Its puttering around, bogging out, running like a piece of crap. It still wont boost, it jerks around, in putts about and feels like its dead. THe motor was rebuilt i belive about 50,000 miles ago and for some reason my car has no cam positioner and the hole is JB weld shut (should i find on and get it on?) I just need some help so tell me whatever ya can
 
i switched the coolant line this morning and started it and let it run for awhiel
it would idle at 1500 rpm and then drop to 800 rpm and repeat. I started down the road and it was driving really shitty. It had nothing to it, it would bog out and sputter unless it was at a high rpm and if it slowed it woudl stall and there is also a REALLY loud knocking or ticking noise from the motor? what may that be?
 
no cam positioner and the hole is JB weld shut

Uhh,, that's not good.. LOL

or do Talons not need a CAS?

sounds like you have a lot of issues I wouldnt even know where to start with all your discribing.. do you have any logging software?
 
well... REALLY loud knocking usually = rod(s) which then would mean definately toast motor. Rebuild may be possible but you will have to tear it apart and assess the damages. A new block may be needed, very possibly. After you assess the damages then you can better come up with a price.
 
i had about the same problem a year ago the knocking turned out to be every bearing in the block spinning loose, who did the rebuild? did they put a new oil pump in ? well either way even if you need a new head and block its not that bad it all depends on if you can find the parts, having a block bored, re surfaced, cleaned , inspected, and new plugs ran me about 350 assembled, thats with all my own parts, a valve job with 16 new valves ran me 280.. it all depends how much work you can do yourself and availability to parts, labor is about the same anywhere you go..maybe if you say exactly whrere your from someone can help you find a good shop.
 
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