new Clucth slave and master

[harjms]

Ok today we installed a new master and slave cylinder...now heres the problem...we got them in...and we bled them(so we think) first time we treid to start the car in 1st...it moves while cranking..so i twisted the clutch thing from the master cylinder outward(towards teh firewall...so less threads shown through the bracket..) 2nd time it did the same thing ...so unscrewed it some more....3rd time it didnt move but the tranny is hard to shift at idle and also it grinds from going 4 to 3. also the clutch pedal feels soft not as hard as it has been. plz any help will be great...i dont want to take it to satan for them to fix...

 

[skinnyt]

well i got same problem so i hope some one can help us both

 

[harjms]

please people i need my car back. i couldnt drive my car in any other gears besides 2nd. it would do nothing but grind in going into first....also could it just be an air bubble or the slave rod being to short?

 

[evileclipse420]

more than likely it just needs bled very well.be sure to use a hose and bottle to be sure of no air in the lines. i couldnt shift unless it was the car was off. i inspected the clutch resovoir and it was almost dry. i bled it like fifty times.really.now it feels better than ever. be very careful shifting it when its grinding, it only takes a piece of metal one quarter inch by one quarter inch to grenade your whole trans.every time you grind, you run the risk of cracking synchros.i bet a real good bleeding would do it justice. and it only costs 5 dollars and one hour of work. good luck.

 

[realhp=turbo]

Ive just replaced my clutch aswell and the slave . I too have this problem. I belive that it is just air stuck in the system somewhere. I have my maser, push rod extended as far as I can get it and my clutch engages way at the bottom but I dont get any grinding any more. Try just pumping the crap out of the clutch pedal for like 3 or 4 minutes. Not bleeding it just pumping it. It works all the air out of the system.
mike

 

[oldman]

All three of you need to check your pedal assembly for freeplay. If you put on a heavier clutch and had to adjust the master amost all the way out, this eventually blows out your slave cylnder which led you to where you're now, chances are your "1G" pedal is worn.

http://www.taboospeedshop.com/clutch_pedal_assembly.htm

 

[harjms]

is it still effect me if i just have an oem clutch? and also i just got done bleeding again...before my clutch would engage right as soon as i let off...like no play at all...now there is like 1-1.5 inches before it grabs...this a good sign of all the air out or mostly out...now i think i can readjust my rod(master) back to where it used to be or close to.

 

[oldman]

is it still effect me if i just have an oem clutch? and also i just got done bleeding again...before my clutch would engage right as soon as i let off...like no play at all...now there is like 1-1.5 inches before it grabs...this a good sign of all the air out or mostly out...now i think i can readjust my rod(master) back to where it used to be or close to.

Good, in your case it was air. My statement only applies after you've tried everything else including bleeding it using the proper method. I would bleed it again after you re adiust the rod to make sure air didn't get draw back in throught the bleeder valve after the rod is backed out, but I'm anal about my car. Make sure you tighten that valve, they need to be tigher than you think.

 

[harjms]

Good, in your case it was air. My statement only applies after you've tried everything else including bleeding it using the proper method. I would bleed it again after you re adiust the rod to make sure air didn't get draw back in throught the bleeder valve after the rod is backed out, but I'm anal about my car. Make sure you tighten that valve, they need to be tigher than you think.

hey thanks a lot...its dark now but its will be a priority right after school