Installed Magnus + New Biss Screw....Now Idles at 2500-3k rpm?---LONG

[c5low13]

Hey...

Now what did I do?

I installed my magnus...before tryin to start the car, I also installed a new biss screw. Decided on installing a new one because prior to the magnus install...the car during idle would sometimes surge from 1k-1.5k...and when cruising then pushin the clutch in while still coasting to a stop...it would surge back and forth up to 1.5k then back to 800-900 then back to 1.5k, etc....

So, I had a shop check out the ISC a few weeks ago..they said it was fine...so I decided lets try the biss screw.

Well, Installed magnus, installed biss screw---also eliminated all emmission hoses.
When I go to start the car up...first started then died...did it again...started and died. Adjusted the screw(cant remember which way I turned it)....could have been the car just not have been started in a week....but eventually it turned on and stayed on. I waited for the car to heat up-It was idleing high...

Car got to norm opperating temps...did what the vfaq said for adjustin the biss screw correctly. Car was off...attached alligator clips from that connector to the ground on battery. The other ground on the port inside the car...is already grounded because of the 1g dsmlink cable being attached in there. K...So I start the car up...Car turns on and immediatley revs to 3k then goes straight down to 1k and idles there without a problem. Figured-wow got it right in the first shot. Turnd the car off...took out the clips. Took the car for a drive...well-was wrong!

The car without the connector grounded..still just idles at 3k rpm. Went back to adjust the biss screw with the alligator clips back in....no matter how much I scewed it in or out...it just continued to idle at 1k rpm....but as soon as you take the alligator clips off the connector and the ground...the idle shoots up to 3k.

So...im not sure whats goin on...

Another weird thing...I took out the relay for the pop-up headlights-so they dont popup.
The power output on my H4 silverstars seemed low and barely noticeable...even at night---but I figured prob just because of them not being in the up position.....
Well, when I grounded that connector for adjusting the biss screw...my lights got like 10x brighter...like how the silverstars should look....not how they were before.
So, I figured...if the car idles fine with that connector grounded...and my lights are bright as they should be....maybe I should leave that connector grounded always.

Took it out for a test drive like that...not goot...seemed a little slow to rev....and started hearing a poping noise coming from the rear of the vehicle...immediately pulled over and took out the alligator clips and the idle jumped right back up to 3k

Any help...is much appreciated!!

 

[tsi_daggie]

i am not a genius by any means with these cars. but it sounds to me like you have a electrical ground problem. do you have a grounding kit? if not install one and c if that helps.

as for it being slow to rev, and the popping noise. i have no idea. sorry
Joey

 

[rjgeier]

Change the ISC, even if it checks out good.

You can get one at the junkyard for next to nothing.

 

[onegee]

i am not a genius by any means with these cars. but it sounds to me like you have a electrical ground problem. do you have a grounding kit? if not install one and c if that helps.

as for it being slow to rev, and the popping noise. i have no idea. sorry
Joey

Please don't guess. It doesn't help. A grounding kit will have little effect on his setup unless he left off a connection. I doubt if a car was running fine before the install that a grounding kit will fix it. Not trying to be a prick, just some advice. I'd really hate for him to buy a kit @ 50-100$ and it not work.

What else did you remove when you installed the magnus intake? Did you reattach every electrical connectors? Check the throttle cable. How much slack is in the line before it starts to open the throttle body port? It should be at the point that is has very little slack and does not open the port at all. I've had a few issues where after WOT, I'll get off the gas and the car will want to rev. It ended being that after my engine swap, I adjusted the cable a bit too loose and it would fall off the "track" on the throttle body sticking the port open.

BTW, when you eliminated the vaccuum hoses you did block off the EGR right? Not an insult, but I'd rather not assume. The not wanting to rev sounds like a vaccuum leak. The same thing happened to me after I blew a vaccuum cap off the TB at 15 psi.


Good luck.

 

[desolateboosted]

Did you put an o-ring on with the BISS?

 

[c5low13]

BISS has oring....


Only things I removed would be the coil pack...unplug the starter, fuel rail, etc...but all thats been put back in.
As far as the EGR...the magnus doesnt have a place to install the EGR...so that shouldnt be the problem.
The not wanting to rev-only happens when you leave the alligator clips in on that connector and keep it grounded and trying to drive like that.

If you take out the alligator clips and let it idle at 3k rpm...it drives fine...just like it did before....just thats its idleing at 3k

As far as the throttle cable...I experienced somewhat of the same thing...While its idleing at 3k....and I take it for a drive. I press on the gas and it still will wanna accelerate for like an extra second before it stops. I'll check the throttle cable...but any other ideas?