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Shutter, Vibration, Lost Power, Intermittent

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megadan

15+ Year Contributor
139
1
Dec 5, 2004
montreal,
When I'm cruising and I accelerate, my car start to vibrate and shutter accompagned with a lost of performance. My stock boost gage start to climb higher then normal.

That problem is happening once from time to time... I would says 1 out of 5 time I usse my car.

The problem happens more often when i'm going uphill.

6 bolt swap was made in the 95 awd.

Anyone could help.
 
I changed all plugs yesterday. For the wires, I know the water spray method. (You see spark to metal if wires are damaged).

I did look for vaccum leak. I sprayed wd40 on gasket and on place where there could be a leak and I didn't find anything. Is there a better way to find a vaccum or boost leak?
 
Unfortunately, the problem came back!!!
The problem sound as if I was running on 3 cylinders.
If I let the gas pedal down for several seconds, the problem stop and the car feel powerfull again until around 1 min later the problem come back.

What could it be.
 
Hi,

I have this same exact problem! I have a 95 with a 6 bolt. Its strange because this "misfire" or whatever you want to call it (seems like one cylinder isnt firing) happens randomly. Say for example your driving on the road at 45mph, 3200rpm and just cruising, then bam, all of sudden you feel the motor struggling, sounds like its "missing" let the gas pedal down for a few seconds, and the motor is back to normal. Its really strange and right now I am thinking it could be either fuel related or spark related.

I see you have a 95 eclipse equipped witha 6 bolt. Did you do the swap yourself? If so, did you swap out the ecu pins for the injector triggers? Im thinking that a pin could be loose and causing a false signal. this is just a thought, hardly think it is, but a possiblity.

My coil pack is zipped tied in a wierd location for the meantime as I fabricate a nice mount for it. Im thinking it could be the wires or just the the coil not being mounted properly.

It could also be that the power transister is now just bolted to the intake manifold without its metal bracket.

Or my sparkplug wires could be back and cause a wierd arching and causing that particular cylinder not to fire.

either way, these are some possiblities that I think could be the cause. I also had a check engine like come on at the same time the "stuttering" happens, its a p0300 code-random misfire.
 
civic619 said:
Hi,

I have this same exact problem! I have a 95 with a 6 bolt. Its strange because this "misfire" or whatever you want to call it (seems like one cylinder isnt firing) happens randomly. Say for example your driving on the road at 45mph, 3200rpm and just cruising, then bam, all of sudden you feel the motor struggling, sounds like its "missing" let the gas pedal down for a few seconds, and the motor is back to normal. Its really strange and right now I am thinking it could be either fuel related or spark related.

I see you have a 95 eclipse equipped witha 6 bolt. Did you do the swap yourself? If so, did you swap out the ecu pins for the injector triggers? Im thinking that a pin could be loose and causing a false signal. this is just a thought, hardly think it is, but a possiblity.

My coil pack is zipped tied in a wierd location for the meantime as I fabricate a nice mount for it. Im thinking it could be the wires or just the the coil not being mounted properly.

It could also be that the power transister is now just bolted to the intake manifold without its metal bracket.

Or my sparkplug wires could be back and cause a wierd arching and causing that particular cylinder not to fire.

either way, these are some possiblities that I think could be the cause. I also had a check engine like come on at the same time the "stuttering" happens, its a p0300 code-random misfire.

I had a problem similar to that. I have a 6 bolt and it liked to miss below 3000rpm. Above 3000 it was strong as an ox. It was hard to drive the speed limit because of the random missing. I had really bad piston slap and my pistons are sooo loose in the bore i can move it with my fingers. I also had extensive amounts of blowby oil in my intake pipe. I think the random miss is attributed to the piston slap and loss of compression under a load. :barf:
 
civic619 said:
its a p0300 code-random misfire.

this is a common problem with most 6 bolt swaps. the problem stems from getting two signals from the cam sensor. it is believed that the computer references both signals and analyzes them to see some difference in speed/acceleration/relative position to tell if the car is misfiring. if a misfire is suspected, the car cuts the spark to the guilty cylinder. because we use 1 sensor to generate 2 signals, sometimes the car isn't happy.

There is a fix available where you wire in a potentiometer to the barometric pressure sensor. This makes the computer think that you are above 76kPa of pressure, and because of this, it won't check for random misfire. I did this over a year ago and haven't had a random misfire since.

More information about this problem:

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g.htm

http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/article_1g2g.htm
 
i have read on the 1g2g yahoo boards and have found that using the POT method, it can be difficult to tune.. Is this so? Chances of melting your pistion?

As far as the piston slap goes in the previous post, I hardly think that RM was the cause of your issue.
 
i have read on the 1g2g yahoo boards and have found that using the POT method, it can be difficult to tune.. Is this so? Chances of melting your pistion?

two things:
1. right now i'm on stock fuel control & stock boost control, so I can't comment on the tunability. but, when i do move up to injectors and hopefully DSMlink, all i'm going to have to do is turn the POT down to 0. that will make it, in effect, invisible to the ECU. Note: with DSMlink, you can turn off the random misfire code.
2. what the POT mod does, however, lean the car out slightly. this is because putting the resistance inline with the sensor makes it seem as though your car is now at a higher elevation. we all know that the air is not as dense up there, and so does the car, so it doesn't add as much fuel.

the chances of melting your piston JUST BECAUSE OF THIS MOD are almost non existant. like I said above, i've had this mod for over a year and have seen no problems whatsoever. but, if you have unmetered air, removed honeycombs, and other things that little by little lean the car out, you may want to tread lightly. that said, the ECU is conservative enough with its fuel maps that I dont think you'll run into many problems.

As far as the piston slap goes in the previous post, I hardly think that RM was the cause of your issue.

agreed.


Edit: oh yeah, and for only a couple of bucks, it has a great change in drivability of the car. my .02... you can't beat it.
 
Sorry for the delay civic619. Yes I did the swap and put an inverter instead of doing the ecu pin swap. You even describe our problem better than me (Its the exact same problem). Like you, my coil pack is set to a weird location and not sure if it is WELL GROUNDED (does it matter?). My power transistor too is not grounded and is hanging on the motor.

As for the check engine light, mine is on but enable to read it with the on off key (I heard it was for non turbo car?).

If the potentiometer works for me, well I will kiss ya all, frineds
 
It's very possible that another leak has developed since you fixed the 1st leak which solved your problem for a couple of days. I would do it again just to make sure.
 
I bought a 93 gs. i had this problem. it felt as fast as the 1.8. all the way through every gear, it stuggled, and felt like misfire. i took my fuel rail off ( or whatever the thing the injectors are mounted to is called) and reseated all my injectors, cleaned them with alcohol and a toothbrush, and put them back on. works fine now.
 
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