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Clutch sticks at friction point (about half way) after engaging clutch

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tommiman

15+ Year Contributor
273
5
Aug 31, 2004
Vaughan,
Clutch pedal sticks at friction point (about half way) after engaging clutch. Normally I just put my foot under the pedal to bring it all the way back out. The car drives like it always has. This is very annoying.

I've searched the threads but could only find clutch pedals stuck to the floor.

Any ideas what is causing this?
 
Check the resevoir to make sure you're not low on fluid. Bleed the clutch to get rid of any air that might be in the clutch system. Check for leaks too.

If that doesn't work, try adusting the clutch by the pedal. :thumb:
 
It could be a system of crankwalk but you have a 1st gen and crankwalk is common in 2nd gens. Plus usually when the clutch gets stuck is when your going round a left hand turn. It's prolly just a clutch problem :dsm:
 
i had this same problem,not sure if it was a good idea but i sprayed lithium grease on the clutch fork inside the tranny,there is a rubber boot around the fork,i removed that,and sprayed all inside.it was so annoying i didnt care.has squeaked or gets stuck anymore,its perfect. i figured maybe it was the release bearing was getting stuck on the shaft..who knows though
 
I cycled about 1/2 a gallon of fresh dot3 and bled the clutch. Still getting the same problem.

Could this be the master and slave cylinders?
 
karbon said:
Stop saying crankwalk. Like the one guy said, check the pivot point of the actual clutch pedal assembly. 1gs love to burr up the hole there and it can make the clutch dis/engage strangely. This is why people sometimes weld their clutch pedal assemblies.
http://www.taboospeedshop.com/clutch_pedal_assembly.htm
Give that a look.

Mine is a 2g. Also, my clutch never sinks to the floor on left turns so I doubt it's crankwalk.

My clutch system never leaked either.

I read something about dirt getting caught in the master cylinder causing this. Before I changed my clutch fluid yesterday I noticed the bottom of the resvoir was dirty black. After changing the fluid I can see the bottom of the resvoir.

I'm going to see if fluid comes out from behind the secondary cylinder boot tonight. If it does I think I'm going to replace the master and slave cylinders.

What do you guys think?
 
Problem Solved!!!

I redid bleeding the clutch but this time I did it properly. The mistake I was making was not tightening the bleeder nut before pulling the clutch back up.

After doing this the clutch was back to 90%. It felt like the clutch was trying to stick again. Then I remembered I was messing around with the clutch height a few months earlier. My free play was at 3/4". I readjusted to just under 1/2". Now the clutch works like butter!
 
The car was fine last night during the test drive. This morning going to work I had the mushy sticking clutch about 30% of the time.
 
Does it do it when it's cold? Or when it's warm too? It's kinda too be expected when it's cold and hasn't warmed up. :) :dsm:
 
gstowner said:
Does it do it when it's cold? Or when it's warm too? It's kinda too be expected when it's cold and hasn't warmed up. :) :dsm:

My drive to work is about 30 minutes. It was doing it from beginning to end.

It's as if there's air getting into the system yet I'm not losing any fluid. It was perfect right after bleeding it last night but this morning it reappeared.

I checked to see if any fluid would spill from the slave cylinder boot but none did.

Where can air get in without losing fluid?
 
tommiman said:
Mine is a 2g.

Duh I should've looked. The one guy said it could be the bracket so I assumed he saw you had a 1g. Glad to hear the problem's fixed.
On a note related to clutch bleeding, is the bleeder fitting the same size as the ones in our brake calipers? I've had really good experience using the Speed Bleeder valves on the calipers and it'd be handy to have them on the clutch as well.
 
Hasn't been fixed 100%. Please see above. As far as the brake bleeders go I have no idea.
 
I just put in a new OEM clutch master cylinder and made sure I bled the system properly. I'm still getting the same problem. I'm replacing the slave in a few days.

After bleeding the clutch with the engine off I pressed the clutch a few times and it engages/disengages properly. Doesn't this mean the hydralic system is working propely? It's only when I drive the pedal feels mushy and sticks sometimes. After pulling the pedal up with my foot when I depress the clutch it feels firm again and after a few gear shifts it'll reappear. It's a continuing cycle.
 
After doing a clutch job my mechanic couldn't figure out why the clutch would not release.
The car was at the mechanic for four days. The tranny was dropped 7 times.

Turns out the fork ball stud had to be shimmed.
 
When you say you bled it properly, are you including attaching a hose to the bleeder valve and submerge the other end in fresh fluid? This is important because air will get sucked back in before you can close the valve quick enough. Also make sure you tighten up the valve well afterwards, it really needs to be tighten. I would also suggest installing a ss clutch line along with your slave, worned out rubber line will expand under pressure. After that, it would be time to pull the tranny and take a look. Good luck.
 
karbon said:
I've had really good experience using the Speed Bleeder valves on the calipers and it'd be handy to have them on the clutch as well.

I've read a couple of threads where people claim it doesn't work that well but have not had personal experience with them. In theory it should work the same but why take a chance.
 
98RedGs said:
Stop Making Threads.
Closing all of your other threads.

DO NOT bump this thread with a reply like "Anybody" again either please.
Or this one will be closed also.


Thank you
John.


I updated these threads to let everyone know how the problem was solved.

Also, how can I keep a thread recent without doing an "anybody"? Sometimes it takes 100 views before anyone replies but by then it's at the end of the pile.

Please advise.

Kind Regards.
 
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