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1Gtuner1G

15+ Year Contributor
97
0
Jun 12, 2004
Uhrichsville, Ohio
Hi guys, thanks for looking at this for me.
Okay here is the story I changed my <a href="http://www.serverlogic3.com/lm/rtl3.asp?si=11&k=head%20gasket" onmouseover="window.status='head gasket'; return true;" onmouseout="window.status=''; return true;">head gasket</a> because it went about 2 months ago. After I put everything back together I couldn't get it started, so I figured only thing I could have screwed up on was the timing, but it is dead on now and still no start. I've noticed every once in awhile after a few tries of starting it, just turning the key on will fire all 4 injectors for about 5-10 seconds flooding all 4 cylinders. Also I still have to tap near the area of my ecu to get my gauges to "zero out" in order for the car to "accept" being started. still don't understand that... whenever it would be good for an attempt, usually near the area of the ISC motor a weird machine gun sound of the sort would happen, not real loud but noticeable.
I have checked spark, it has it. Compression is 152 across all 4. I used a metal headgasket and arp head studs when I put it back together, has the gm maf setup on blow-through, evo 16g turbo, walbro 190 fuel pump. Also, it definately has fuel from smell/ cylinders being coated from not starting after trying a while.
ANYONE have this crazy problem before??? PLEASE, need this car for college SOON
Ask if you need more information I will be glad to tell you
 
swap out the ecu with someone elses if you can to see if thats not the problem. if you have to tap on the ecu to get it to work somethings wrong with it.

and by gauges to zero out what do you mean by that? aftermarket gauges? if so are their power leads connected in any way to the ecu harness? any short there could be bad.
 
I'm talking the stock gauges. The boost gauge in particular, also the check engine light will go out if it is "okay" to start. The boost gauge is my sign that it is ready to start since it goes to zero, otherwise it just stay all the way negative, sometimes my tachometer (stock one) will jump and flutter sometimes.
I don't hit the ecu exactly, more near what I believe is the MPI RELAY, gold box just in front of the ecu. That worked for the longest time in letting me start it but now it just won't do that anymore. And I did replace that relay, waste of 100 dollars too I guess.
 
Okay I will try to find someone to swap ECU's with, that will be near impossible around here. Anyone else have some thoughts on whether or not it is the ECU or maybe something else?
 
mhmm, pull apart your ECU and just check it. When I did my headgasket, my ECU went shortly afterword. I think its probably because it sits for a while, then it has power thrown to it, which causes those junks to fry. Pull it apart, and check for burn marks, or anything that looks unusual. If you cant see anything wrong with it, try swapping with another ECU as a last resort if they are hard to find.
 
Thanks
I did pull it apart about 2 days ago and everything sure looked fine, smelled okay too LOL
Looks like my last resort is BUYING an ECU grr It better fix this POS
 
i think theres a ohio-dsm club, maybe get in touch with some of them and see if one of them can come over and do a quick evu swappie. i know here in the central valley alot of guys will go over to someones house with a weird problem who they dont even know and check it out. all part of being a dsmer. hell if i lived in ohio or anything around a 1-1.5hr radius id help you out.
 
Yeah thats cool bro.
Anyway i'm sure there is a DSM club in ohio somewhere... probably nearest would be Canton, near the football hall of fame, ever been there? its sweet LOL
 
Make sure the CAS isn't 180 degrees out of phase.

BTW, I have a friend that lives in Uhrichsville and have even been there myself.


Edit: Hopefully you've checked this, but make sure the plugs wires are going to the proper cylinder.
 
I've got the exact same problem on my car after doing the head gasket and I don't have to tap on the ecu or anything so I don't think it's an ecu problem with either of our vehicles. What's with the cas being out of phase? wouldn't it be in phase if both the cams had the dowels up when put back in? I know what he's going through cause mine did the exact same thing yesterday it sucks. Any help anyone?
 
CAS out of phase

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Cas lined up correctly

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Thank you RRE for the pictures.
 

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question. Does the 2g have that same cas? how can you check to make sure it's in phase. I didn't take it out or anything.
 
When I replaced the timing belt for the first time on my car I lined up the exhaust cam by the incorrect marking causing the exhaust valves to be opened on the compression stroke. Just kept flooding the cylinders until I finally realized what I had done. You learn through experience. :rolleyes: Might want to double check your timing marks.

el aguila said:
Make sure the CAS isn't 180 degrees out of phase.

BTW, I have a friend that lives in Uhrichsville and have even been there myself.


Edit: Hopefully you've checked this, but make sure the plugs wires are going to the proper cylinder.

If that doesn't work I would consider this next.
 
1Gtuner1G said:
Yeah thats cool bro.
Anyway i'm sure there is a DSM club in ohio somewhere... probably nearest would be Canton, near the football hall of fame, ever been there? its sweet LOL


There's an Ohio DSM club based out of Columbus that I am sure of...can't find the damn link right now though.

Q
 
I have had the CAS off and just tried it both ways before but I will pull it out again and check it. thanks for that MNGSX
Who is your friend?? Name?? I probably know him/her LOL
Timing is set just fine on the car too also the wires are on correctly.
I'm thinking ECU problem because of having to tap the MPI relay near the ECU, and injectors staying on while car is off, and growling noise from the ISC motor.. things like that seem awfully related to ECU problems.

If you want to just private message me their name or phone number or whatever you want to do bro. I am interested in trying the swap.
 
Temp sensor wires were broken up with butt connectors on them from someone else tryin to fix them. I soldered them up and it started... weirdddddddddd.
 
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