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Car cranks, but won't start?2g/1g 6bolt

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CMiuc12s

15+ Year Contributor
119
0
Sep 19, 2004
Virginia Beach, Illinois
Ok, I have been fighting with this car know for a couple of months. I had bent a couple of valves and have since gotten it fixed. I also had HKS 264in, 272ex cams added. I also replaced my coil pack with a new one from extrememotorsports. Everything has been put back together and everything looks good. Got spark, got fuel, compression is 150 across, fp is at 43psi, timing marks all lined up. I try and start it up and it cranks but won't kick over? I also am running 550RC inj, 255lb pump, AFC II. If anyone has had this problem or any suggestions I would be greatful for your help.
 
wow I cant believe how common this problem is ..... and yet no write ups....

well i had the same exact thing happen to me.... when I had the cams off the lifters got locked up ..... just take out the lifters and use a pin in the top of them ... u can then clean them in some gas by pumping them up..... then bleading them back out. The car fired right up after I did that... and to think I rebuilt my engine for some thing like that...

If you need more details on do this email me or AIM me...

good luck

Adam
 
sounds a little far fetched. I have the new revised adjusters. I also have crank the motor with the valve cover off to check everything. And everything was good. So I am still left with no idea.
 
well its not like it would take alot of effort to do... when you figure out what is wrong i would like to know...

is the cas 180 degress off? ...
what caused you to bend the valves?
 
Thanks for the help fellas. Well, I had the valve cover of and I watched the lifters work properly. I am about to turn my cas. I had it set TDC. we'll see. I had origanally spun the teeth off the belt on the crank. It bent all the exh valves. I checked the bottom end and it is still in perfect shape. Had it rebuilt about 11k miles ago.
 
Something doesn't fit right. If you have fuel, spark, compression, AND it cranks over then there's really no reason for it not to turn on. How did you check for fuel and spark? Since you have a cas, you can turn it by hand and listen to each injector pulse for fuel as well as watch that particular plug spark on your valve cover. That way you can make sure that the proper plug/injector is firing at the right time. Also, if you have a multimeter, you can check the voltage that comes from the cas when the injector fires. It should be around 4.5-5.0Vdc.
 
But I have this EXACT same problem in my car as well. I have and AEM EMS and it reads everything as fine. But there has been one new thing, if I hold down the ignition and lets the car try to turn over, I get a pop pop pop sound. Do you get that as well???
 
No, I don't have the popping problem. OK! I give up zxdude. Please explain to me exactly how to clean these things out. I have the new revised lifters. I have nothing to lose from this, although, I have my doubts that this is the problem. But, if it fixes it then I will owe you some beer, cool? Thanks. :thumb:
 
well being a minor and all......the beer could get someone in trouble.... LOL...

(taken directly from VFAQ.com)

Remove the lifter

Pull the lifter out of the head by hand (pliers shown for clarity)
Remove all oil from the new lifter - this also applies if you are cleaning and reusing the old lifters. Get a large paperclip and straighten it out. Insert it into the top hole of the lifter until it bottoms, then press on it lightly - you can now easily collapse the lifter with the paperclip still in place. If cleaning and reusing the old lifters:
Submerge the lifter in cleaning solution (brakeparts cleaner, carb cleaner, acetone). Soak it for as long as you can, preferably up to a day or more.
Insert the paperclip, depress the internal valve, and pump the lifter up and down until it moves freely and the fluid coming out is clean.
If you have the time, repeat the above at least one more time.
Remove the lifter, turn it upside down, depress the paperclip, and pump the lifter until no more cleaning fluid comes out. Set the lifter aside to dry for a while.
Submerge the lifter in oil, depress the paperclip, and pump the lifter to fill it with oil.
Remove the lifter, turn it upside down, depress the paperclip, and pump the lifter until no more oil comes out. This will leave a thin film of oil for startup.
The lifters will clatter for a few minutes at startup when empty like this, but that is better than having them too full of oil and bending some valves.
Drop the lifter back in the bore - it doesn't really matter how you line up the oiling holes in the lifter, they rotate under normal use.

you dont really need to soak the lifters that long.....

that explains it pretty well......
 
Damn, sorry to hear that. Thanks for that detail info!!! I guess I'll give it a try this week and cross my fingers. Thanks bro. :thumb:
 
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