boost test...results

[1993TalonTsiAWD]

I finally did a boost test. I hear a Very loud hissing sound around the turbo outlet, but can't feel anything, the gasket looks shot however and I'm going to replace it, Also the dip stick hissis a lot, but it still on pretty tight. I have a problem with my boost guage. It'a a auto meter, and it has got off zero somehow. It stays at 4psi for 0 now, don't know how to recalibrate it, or should I start the engine up and see if it resets itself, It has been sitting for a year not being used. Also not sure why cylinder #1 is lean and the others are fine, replaced the cylinder #1 with a new injector, but that really didn't help.

One more thing where can I find the turbo outlet gasket, it's what they call the j-pipe

And the boost guage does move up and down, but stops at 4psi I had the system tested at about 15psi.

any help will help

thanks Derek

 

[1993TalonTsiAWD]

Is it bad if the dip stick hissis or is that normal, someone thinks if the crank case has pressure then a valve seal, or rings are bad please tell me this is not true and how to recalibrate my boost guage

thanks Derek

 

[DSM90AWD]

There is no way to recalibrate your mechanical boost gauge.. at least that is the case with my VDO.

As for the pressure test.. having sat for a year without oil circulation.. the rings/valve seals are likely dry. Get the thing running and do a compression test and then pressure test the intake again to see if ok.

BTW.. the plastic FAIV valve assembly which plugs into the thermostat housing tends to crack causing a boost leak. That may be what you hear around the turbine outlet.

 

[Ryan86]

Autometer boost gauges are pretty easy to set back to zero. Take out the bulb then get a pen/screw driver/allen wrench and push the big metal ring either in or out. Sounds weird, but it should make sense once you take a look.

I did this to mine when it sat at 1psi and now it works great.

 

[1993TalonTsiAWD]

I have ran the engine since then and compression is 155-160. Why is the crank case being pressurized too, is this bad, the dip stick will blow off at around 18psi and the valve cover leaks a little air too. I hope it's nothing major. On a side note I got everything back together and it ran like crap,, I flipped out and got very mad. Come to find out the spark plug wires aren't staying on, Is there a trick to getting them to stay on, or should I return them and get a brand name, there carquest brand and were 50bux
It runs good as long as the spark plugs wires stay on I think that may be the hole problem at top end. I need a fix of some sort. Plus vac is 17 or 18at idle. I haven't boosted it yet until the plug wire problem is fixed, I replaced the PCV valve to cure crankcase pressure problem, but it still does it, It runs fine though, Is there a line I left connected that should be connected I put the tester right were the intake attaches to the turbo, and pumped it to 15-18psi, also my coolent sensor has a wire that is bare, could this mess anything up I asume it would, but I can't just keep guessing because I'm running out of money


thanks Derek

 

[oldman]

BTW.. the plastic FAIV valve assembly which plugs into the thermostat housing tends to crack causing a boost leak. That may be what you hear around the turbine outlet.

What is FAIV valve. I have the same leak around the outlet area as well, already did the oulet gasket twice. Thanks.

 

[rjgeier]

It's FIAV. Fast Idle Air Valve. It's on the bottom of your throttle body where coolant lines are running. It keeps your idle high when you first start the car for a "warm startup".

 

[oldman]

It's FIAV. Fast Idle Air Valve. It's on the bottom of your throttle body where coolant lines are running. It keeps your idle high when you first start the car for a "warm startup".

Sounds a little far from the turbo oulet but I'll check tomorrow. Thanks.