Found out the problem...Yessssssss

[1993TalonTsiAWD]

If your wondering what it was, look under bad gas. I took it to the shop, and they found the timing was 30degrees ATDC thats right 35 degrees in total off, It appears the guy that timed my car didn't know what he was doing. From now on I will buy a timing light and do it myself. They also found the plugs were fried. They also said the o2 was bad. They said it would stick at a certain voltage, which If I remeber right needs to bounce back and fourth. It only took them 4hours at 50bucks to find it, so that really sucks. They also found in cylinder 3 a spark plug with a bent elctrode. They thought the piston hit it, but that sounds very unlikly, compression was 155-160 across the board. So I did put the head on right. They think I may have a failing brearing and that why it hit the spark plug, that sounds like it would have to be very far out of tolerence to do that. Like I say stroies or theories from shop's never add up. In all it will cost 250-350 which I could have fixed myself if I had a timing light and a logger. I'm just glad to have it running for the first time since I bought it about 3weeks ago. Another thing I told them it had a new head, but I asked them how high they revved it, and they said 6500, I was pissed since the head has maybe 12miles on it, and that when I know I would put the new o2 in myself, in fact I think I will go with the new one that the ecu uses, but can be used as a wide ban, Just not sure who makes it. Like I said it has twice the power my talon had, but it only put out 7psi and was auto. I haven't put it past 4500 yet, but it's fun. I will get pics up of the 600 junk yard special that has about 2000 in it.

On more thing when I start it I hear a clatering sound, then it quickly goes away, and comes back sometime's. The shop people think it may be the bearing, I hope not, but what are the signs of a bad bearing. If I didn't say I mean a crank to connecting rod bearing.

Thanks for any help

Derek

 

[StyleElements]

If your wondering what it was, look under bad gas. I took it to the shop, and they found the timing was 30degrees ATDC thats right 35 degrees in total off, It appears the guy that timed my car didn't know what he was doing. From now on I will buy a timing light and do it myself. They also found the plugs were fried. They also said the o2 was bad. They said it would stick at a certain voltage, which If I remeber right needs to bounce back and fourth. It only took them 4hours at 50bucks to find it, so that really sucks. They also found in cylinder 3 a spark plug with a bent elctrode. They thought the piston hit it, but that sounds very unlikly, compression was 155-160 across the board. So I did put the head on right. They think I may have a failing brearing and that why it hit the spark plug, that sounds like it would have to be very far out of tolerence to do that. Like I say stroies or theories from shop's never add up. In all it will cost 250-350 which I could have fixed myself if I had a timing light and a logger. I'm just glad to have it running for the first time since I bought it about 3weeks ago. Another thing I told them it had a new head, but I asked them how high they revved it, and they said 6500, I was pissed since the head has maybe 12miles on it, and that when I know I would put the new o2 in myself, in fact I think I will go with the new one that the ecu uses, but can be used as a wide ban, Just not sure who makes it. Like I said it has twice the power my talon had, but it only put out 7psi and was auto. I haven't put it past 4500 yet, but it's fun. I will get pics up of the 600 junk yard special that has about 2000 in it.

On more thing when I start it I hear a clatering sound, then it quickly goes away, and comes back sometime's. The shop people think it may be the bearing, I hope not, but what are the signs of a bad bearing. If I didn't say I mean a crank to connecting rod bearing.

Thanks for any help

Derek

yeah you might have a rod knock, but rod knocks dont really go away, once it knocks it knocks. when its "clatering" .. and you rev it does the clater speed up as the rpms climb? one thing it could also be is a bad lifter. is it just kind of a higher piched tick? or more of a deep violant knock .. its prolly just a lifter if it goes away, one time my car was missing and i pulled the plugs and one elctrode was completly smashed flat, but the motor is perfect, this was after i just rebuilt it

 

[1993TalonTsiAWD]

I don't think it's lifter tick. For one the head is 15miles old and has revised lifters, and it sounds different. No it doesn't speed up with rev's which is weird. Just happens at start up for 1-5 seconds, and everyonce in a while. Will it still rev smooth with a rod knock or brearing going out, because I didn't think it would?? It sounds more like a plate or other parts loose and hitting something?? Could it be a loose flywheel, because If I rember I push clutch in and it goes away...at least I think it does, will have to check that again . As for the bent electrode. I think it may have happen when it was getting put in. As I've read of that happening, and I wasn't there toos ee him put it in. I also think the gaped the plugs at .045-.050 I thought it was like .023 in a turboor other forced app. Will have to check that. What sucks is the plug had 5 miles on it when it bent. I just love how it runs and can't wait for the windows to be fixed. Then I can pick it up tommarrow. After driving it about 10 miles to the body shop. Temp stays right at half in town, and 1/4 to a little more on the highway at 55-60. Also the plug wires had to be replaced as the spark was jumping to the valve cover, which soved almost all of the problems the timing didn't

Thanks Derek

PS if anyone is wondering I mean engine timing not that the t-belt was off 35 degrees, that would be BAD

 

[river]

I don't think it's lifter tick. For one the head is 15miles old and has revised lifters, and it sounds different. No it doesn't speed up with rev's which is weird. Just happens at start up for 1-5 seconds, and everyonce in a while. Will it still rev smooth with a rod knock or brearing going out, because I didn't think it would?? It sounds more like a plate or other parts loose and hitting something?? Could it be a loose flywheel, because If I rember I push clutch in and it goes away...at least I think it does, will have to check that again . As for the bent electrode. I think it may have happen when it was getting put in. As I've read of that happening, and I wasn't there toos ee him put it in. I also think the gaped the plugs at .045-.050 I thought it was like .023 in a turboor other forced app. Will have to check that. What sucks is the plug had 5 miles on it when it bent. I just love how it runs and can't wait for the windows to be fixed. Then I can pick it up tommarrow. After driving it about 10 miles to the body shop. Temp stays right at half in town, and 1/4 to a little more on the highway at 55-60. Also the plug wires had to be replaced as the spark was jumping to the valve cover, which soved almost all of the problems the timing didn't

Thanks Derek

PS if anyone is wondering I mean engine timing not that the t-belt was off 35 degrees, that would be BAD

if the knock goes away when the clutch is pushed in it is more than likely your throw out bearing. replace that and i believe it will go away.

 

[1993TalonTsiAWD]

I thought thats what it might be, but still not sure if I remember it going away when clutch is engaged, will check tonight when I get it from the body shop.

Derek