The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Begging for help at last minute. Thanks for your time.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bosljeff

Here are the problems and questions based on installs below. If you want more detail read on after the questions, otherwise any help regarding the below would be seriously appreciated.

Problems:
1. My original balance shaft belt was busted in half and stuck in the gears. How my car ran fine, I do not know.
2. When at idle, it seems rough. The idle is steady at between 900-1k, but the entire car has a steady rhythmic pulse. Vacuum idles between 8-4 mm hg (should be 12ish right?) and even when it gets to 4 mm hg the idle is stays between 900-1k.
It almost seems to be missing.
3. Once driving, seems to drive very good and all the above problems go away.
4. PCV valve now rattles/clicks.
5. I need a way to cap a tap on the ex mani. I currently have a nut with jb weld sealing the hole. This is threaded onto the tap, but the heat is turning jb into putty.

Questions:
1. Ideas regarding problems 1-5?
2. What should vacuum at idle be?
3. What is the break in time for a turbo? i.e. when can I run it hard to tune in my profec a?
4. How can I seal the tap on the ex mani without buying an egt gauge (will be soon).?
---Details---

Ok. Prior to this install, the only "problems" I had with my car were:
1. ISC was on the fritz, but was symptomatic very rarely.
2. Turbo leaked at higher psi, but boosted just fine under that psi.

Finished installing all this:
1. Dejontool intake
2. New EvoIII big 16g turbo
3. EvoIII exhaust manifold
4. Did the "race only" emissions set up minus catch can on pvc and hose off valve cover (http://www.taboospeedshop.com/emissions.htm)
EGR block off, hose removals, etc...
5. New fuel filter
6. New Thermostat
7. "New" Head bought off trader (ruined old one tapping studs-long story)
8. New Timing Belt
9. New Balance Shaft Belt

Thank you very much for any help. This process has severely sucked and drained my bank account and I want to hit one last race this season on Th and Fri.

Jeff
 
ok, vac at idle should be like 18-20, to fix the hole weld maybe, jb weld wont hold for shit man, im surprised it lasted more then 10mins honestly..
 
Well here it is as it stands:

Timing was off slightly.
A couple of vacuum leaks.
After we fixed those, it "normalized" it a bit, but it still idles like some hot rod that sounds like it is about to die. Any ideas.
 
Do you have cams? :rolleyes:

If not, you could say you do to the people that say
"wtf is wrong with your car"
"Big cams!"

;)
 
blue92laser said:
Do you have cams? :rolleyes:

If not, you could say you do to the people that say
"wtf is wrong with your car"
"Big cams!"

;)

:laugh: :laugh: LMFAO.

Yeah, I'll probably just say that rather than: I have no ####ing clue what is wrong with my car.

btw: anyone know what could be wrong with my greddy remote switch? I just got it and I have know idea why something so simple isn't working. I assume it goes in the interaction port of the greddy, not the output signal (or something like that) one, right? The led on the button lights up when I press it, but the led on the receiver thing doesn't...ideas?
 
I had a idle prob close to yours and it ended up being a small leak in the intake manifold gasket, you can take a couple feet of vac line and put one end in your ear and take the other end and follow the gasket lines, you will hear it if you have a leak.

Also why do you have jb weld on it anyway, I pulled my egt probe out of my mani and just put a same size bolt back in with no leaks.
 
BOBS90TURBO said:
I had a idle prob close to yours and it ended up being a small leak in the intake manifold gasket, you can take a couple feet of vac line and put one end in your ear and take the other end and follow the gasket lines, you will hear it if you have a leak.

Also why do you have jb weld on it anyway, I pulled my egt probe out of my mani and just put a same size bolt back in with no leaks.

God I hope there isn't a leak there cuz some of those bolts are not easy to get to. We did a leak test and found all the leaks and none of them were coming from there. My friend has a stethascope that has a tube or a probe to listen for stuff like that.

I left the tap in because the dude before me must've welded this thing in (I haven't seen an egt probe so I don't know exactly what the mating issues would be with whatever this thing is in my manifold would be) my manifold. It has threads so I finally found a steel nut/cap thing that threads right onto it just fine. The jb weld was a quick very temporary fix.

Thanks.
 
bosljeff said:
Well here it is as it stands:

Timing was off slightly.
A couple of vacuum leaks.
After we fixed those, it "normalized" it a bit, but it still idles like some hot rod that sounds like it is about to die. Any ideas.


Well, I finally did the screwdriver test where you unscrew that screw (that doesn't seem to be there for anything) on the back of the oil pan and stick a screwdriver in it. If you can stick about 2.4" in, your golden, if not, your not happy.

Well, the screwdriver hardly went in at all, so my balance shaft or whatever is "out of phase". I'd like to hope that I fix this, re-time my car and all will be cured.

However, while doing this, I noticed my drive belts were chewed up as a result of my crankwheel pulley thing had seperated into 2 pieces after all these years causing massive in and out movement with the crank pulley, thusly tearing up my belts...Damn! So now I have to order from Satan a new crank pulley assembly (Did you know it was two pieces?).

Thanks for all the help
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top