Tbelt tension question

[rivet0r]

I'm in the middle of doing my tbelt job, but im kind of stuck. I got the belt on and everything lined up, and torqued the tensioner pulley until the pin in the auto tensioner moved freely, then tightened the bolt. I remove the pin, and it doesn't move, I can stick it back in if i wanted.

I don't quite understand what's going on, it's a brand new tensioner and everything.

Any help would be great, thanks.

 

[steve]

Sounds pretty close to perfect if after turning the engine over a few times and waiting 15 mins it stays like that.

Steve

 

[rivet0r]

Is that what it's supposed to do? If the tensioner is putting tension on the belt, are you sure the holes in the tensioner body and the tensioner rod are supposed to line up? After I pull the pin, I can stick it right back in if I want.. That doesn't sound right to me, but maybe I'm wrong.

 

[98spydert]

The shop manual says to wait 15 min if I remember correctly. The rod won't shoot out, it moves pretty slow. Take it out, wait 15 min, then check it

 

[luv2rallye]

Is that what it's supposed to do? If the tensioner is putting tension on the belt, are you sure the holes in the tensioner body and the tensioner rod are supposed to line up? After I pull the pin, I can stick it right back in if I want.. That doesn't sound right to me, but maybe I'm wrong.

No - that is correct (as long as you've removed the special tool MD998738 (threaded rod) that holds the tensioner rod in place and turned the crank and waited 15 min). When the holes in the tensioner body and the tensioner rod are lined up it will automatically make the distance between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body be about .157 in. (spec is .150 - .177 in.). I've done over a dozen dsm TB's this way every one done correctly. Congrats - you've done it right.

 

[rivet0r]

No - that is correct (as long as you've removed the special tool MD998738 (threaded rod) that holds the tensioner rod in place and turned the crank and waited 15 min). When the holes in the tensioner body and the tensioner rod are lined up it will automatically make the distance between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body be about .157 in. (spec is .150 - .177 in.). I've done over a dozen dsm TB's this way every one done correctly. Congrats - you've done it right.

Thanks a lot for the help, I've been waiting for either you or BUCK to get online so I could PM you guys and ask you for help, perfect timing.

Thanks to everyone else that added some input, I appreciate it.

-rivet0r

 

[BUCK]

- My 2 cents on Tension Setting - latest revision.

-May be necessary to BIAS = Mis-Time Exhaust Cam Sprocket ONE Tooth Clockwise - Belt Tensioning process will roll it back into time.

-Don't forget to apply Soft Loctite or RTV to Tensioner Fasteners & apply Final Torque.

-Run ALLTHREAD Tool in until Tensioner Arm Bottoms against Tensioner Body.

-Basically you preload the Eccentric Tension Pulley enough to achieve the correct Gap between Tension Arm & Tensioner Body - So...

-PRE-LOAD the Eccentric Tension Pulley & snug Pulley Bolt (I used soft Loctite on this Bolt too) - My favorite Tool to apply the Load on the Pulley is a Square Shanked Screwdriver that lays on one of the Bolt Heads nicely for leverage.

-Back off ALLTHREAD TOOL a few Turns letting the Tensioner Tension the T/Belt.

-Put Crank at TDC & check Belt Timing Marks - This is where you may see that you have to regroup on initial Timing Belt installation & Bias the Belt as I said at First.

- This is a good time to Spin Crank 6 Turns so Timing Belt can take it's initial SEAT in Sprocket Grooves.

-Check Tension setting with Grenade Pin.

-If gap is too large you have UNDER TENSIONED BELT.

- Don't forget you have ALLTHREAD tool is there to help you hold what Tension you've got SO RUN IT BACK IN TILL IT TOUCHES.

-IF UNDERTENSIONED put MORE LOAD under Tensioner Pulley with long Screwdriver & SIMULTANEOUSLY loosen Pulley Bolt, putting more Tension on Belt & Snug up Pulley Bolt while applying Load.

- Now DON'T forget to back Allthread Toll off a few turns so Tensioner can apply Tension.

- Check Tension setting with Grenade Pin.

- If Pin checks Sat apply Final Torque to Tension Pulley Bolt & RECHECK TENSION SETTING .

- If Gap is too small you have OVER-TENSIONED Belt - Back off Tension Pulley Pre-Load a little.

- Install just enuff Belts to run Water Pump - attach Battery charger & run Motor with NO Timing Covers.

-Immediately when you get it running Reset Base Timing & Idle as it comes up to Full Running Temp - Start off with CAS at middle of adjustment - Check for Coolant Leaks - Check your new Water Pump & Water Pump O Ring, etc, etc...

- After a good hot idle or 2 re-check Tension with Grenade Pin & Button up Covers if all is SAT - Expect to see one good stretch as Belt heats up & sets in & one good re-setting after initial idle.