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safc useless w/o data logger?

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reptar75

Probationary Member
2
0
Feb 28, 2003
so im pretty ignorant on everything thats complicated with dsms. ive had one shop do everytnig for me and i had them install a safc and adjust it on the dyno but ive gone away to college to a city without an aftermarket mechanic. i can get dirty and do bolt ons but how do i adjust my safc accordingly after the bolts on. do i need a data logger or can i basically assume everythings running at its peak from the dyno runs.
 
a datalogger is a big key to tuning, the best feature would have to be knock count, the less knock you get the better ur tuning is. its like 100 bucks with a pda. i would recommend one

Vitaly
 
will a data logger have a recommendation of what to adjust the safc to or is it simply a tool for recording and i have to determin what settings to adjust it to.
 
Datalogger=A must

Your settings from the dyno tuning will be ok untill you do more mods.

You can get a logger on the cheap for about 70-100 on ebay if you buy a used Palm IIIxe and a cable. I think most would recommend a palm M130 but that brings the price up to about $120 or so but you get a color screen and a better palm.

I think if you have a laptop you can use tunerstien and get a cable. That really makes it cheaper if you need.

Without a logger you have to do too much guessing as to what is going on inside your car making it very difficult to correctly tune the AFC. Also a logger is good for diagnosing problems yourself if your car starts acting up.
 
I assume you know that you're just buying the pda from a store. There are a number of different versions of logger software. One really poplar one is www.pocketlogger.com . I use that. I paid about 50 bucks for my pda but forget the model. It's basically the m100 in black and white. However, the capacitor(?) was shot, so changing batteries was a bi***. I wouldn't buy another used electronic device online again.
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I paid $40.00 for my Palm IIIc on ebay.
Has a nice color screen, plenty of memory and came with the cradle/charger.
I then bought a logging cable off ebay for another $20.00.
Everything works great!! couldn't ask for more!!
As for software... I have tunerstien for the palm, but hate it. I have used the "pocketlogger software, but hate it.... I now use MMCD tools and nothing else. It is the easiest to use and the most accurate that I have found! Best of all, it is free!
Ken
 
I used to use a wideband o2 sensor and monitor. I then bought the digital o2 monitor from Zeitronix. While using the two at the same time, the o2 monitor actually gave the exact same readings as the wideband and was actually a bit more stable. Needless to say, when the wideband burnt out.... which was less than a year.. in the trash can it went. It was the best, total waist, of $475.00, that I had ever spent. Exspecially when I saw that a $75.00 digital o2 monitor did the exact same thing for under a 1/4 of the price! ;)
Ken
 
TurboGraphX said:
I used to use a wideband o2 sensor and monitor. I then bought the digital o2 monitor from Zeitronix. While using the two at the same time, the o2 monitor actually gave the exact same readings as the wideband and was actually a bit more stable. Needless to say, when the wideband burnt out.... which was less than a year.. in the trash can it went. It was the best, total waist, of $475.00, that I had ever spent. Exspecially when I saw that a $75.00 digital o2 monitor did the exact same thing for under a 1/4 of the price! ;)
Ken

When you say o2 monitor I'm assuming you're referring to an A/F gauge. I can link you to the dozens of pages dedicated to telling you why an A/F gauge is the most useless thing in the world next to horses, but I know you must have read them already (wink, wink). How is a narrowband voltage reading of your exhaust gas the same as a wideband o2 sensor that calculates your exact A/F ratio? Take two identical cars, don't care what make or model, and wire an A/F gauge into either. Also, mount a wideband o2 sensor to both, then drive them. The chances of them both having the same A/F ratios are very slim. Now, tune them so they both have the same A/F RATIOS. Meaning, use the wideband, not the A/F gauge. Once they are both at the same ratios, look at their A/F gauges and I guarantee they will have very different readings. Basically, what it comes down to is that the Voltage reading for every car is going to be different. The wideband sensor is going to calculate the correct A/F ratios no matter the car. If you can tune just as well, if not better with an A/F gauge, be my guest. I'm telling you right now that this is not going to be the case.
 
I did not say air/fuel gauge.
I said air/fuel monitor.
Very different.
Shows a numeric readout of the actual o2 voltage. (Remember, SOME widebands still just have blinking lights.. which is still useless if it doesn't have a numeric readout of the actual voltage) :thumbdown
An air/fuel monitor uses a dedicated o2 sensor and you have basically the same thing as a GOOD wideband.
I'm not saying that it is the EXACT same thing... but it is 10,000 times better than a blinky light gauge that is just for looks on all the rice cars. But not as costly as a wideband that is going to fail in a year if it makes it that long.
It is very accurate (more than enough for the tunning on our cars) ;) Now, if it was a dedicated track car and you are going to be running 10's or better, then yeah, I'd say go with the wideband... but even then only if you can get contengency points with it or have a sponcer pay for it. :laugh:
Anyway, the MONITOR is perfect for a street/strip car who isn't going to be running a perfect tune anyway. Do you know of any street/strip car running a perfect tune?
Ken :talon:
 
My mistake. I'm not familiar with an o2 monitor, embarrasingly enough. I'll have to read up on them when i get home this evening. I'm sure there are many people on this board who haven't heard of this, also. If you have any good sites that talk about these o2 sensor setups, feel free to post them.

-Chris
 
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